“London based, African at heart” - a Q&A with JÚ
We catch up with Jucelyne Samantha Pinhel Nhanro, CEO & Artistic Director of contemporary African fashion brand JÚ.
Established in 2019, by London based artist and designer Jucelyne Samantha Pinhel Nhanro, JÚ was created to express her passion for art and design. As an homage to her African heritage (Jucelyne hails from Guinea Bissau) she launched the brand during her studies at the London College of Fashion.
Since then, she’s been busy creating timeless garments with conscious materials, designed to have a minimal impact on the environment and be cherished for years to come.
Jucelyne’s vision is to celebrate and empower African communities by creating job opportunities whilst working in collaboration with local artists and artisans in Guinea-Bissau to create sustainable materials. She hopes JÚ can “contribute towards building a socially aware fashion industry that cares for the indigenous people it all too often draws inspiration from but seldom rewards.”
We caught up with Jucelyne to discuss the inspirations behind her most recent collection ‘Fera Di Bande’, the importance of creative collaboration and how something as simple as someone walking down the street could have a big impact on you creatively.
Hi Jucelyne! Congratulations on the launch of your new collection - could you tell us a little bit about where you took your inspiration from and what inspired it?
Thank you so much for having me, I really appreciate it. This collection is dear to me and it is my favourite project so far just because it has a stronger connection to my background.
“Going back to Guinea Bissau after so many years, I fell in love with the energy of the marketplace… The fashion, hairstyles and mannerisms of African women in the 70’s era, was the overall inspiration.”
The main inspiration came from Fera Di Bande which is the biggest, busiest and most important market in my home country Guinea Bissau.
Imagine a stage where the shoulders of people bump into each other on a daily basis, with contrasts gaining rhythm in a frantic coming and going of colours and silhouettes, in keeping with the demand of the metropolis. “Fera di Bande”, the stage of “Guinendadi” which is the term use to define the mixture of ethnicities, religions, and mannerisms of people. A stage of knowledge and customs of the Guinean people. Trends circulate where everything is known, everything is done and everything is resolved in reticence. A place to eat, to dress, to bricolage and even cure. If Guinendadi has any problem, Bande has the solution.
Going back to Guinea Bissau after so many years, I fell in love with the energy of the marketplace, which led me to contemplate how I wanted to portray that in this collection. The fashion, hairstyles and mannerisms of African women in the 70’s era, was the overall inspiration for the concept.
“Collaborating is the key, different minds might bring opposite ideas but when combined gives great results…”
What’s your favourite look from the new collection? and why?
Ponu High Neck Dress, which is look 2, is definitely my favourite. It was the most challenging piece to make starting from the pattern to the toile but also, because it is the perfect dress I always wanted to have in my closet.
You directed a short film which was released alongside the new collection - what was it like venturing into video, and where was it filmed?
Directing the short film wasn’t something I’d planned, it just happened naturally as I normally like to be involved in everything related to my projects, from casting to the models, the hair and makeup and everything else you could imagine. I found myself directing as I was the only one that understood the essence of what I wanted the short film to be, and thankfully I had Lorraine that knew how to perfectly bring my vision to life. I actually wanted to film the short film in Guinea Bissau but the pandemic didn’t help at all so it ended up being filmed in London.
What do you think is the key to successful collaborative work?
I used to prefer to do everything on my own just because I felt that I could, but now I know it is actually impossible. Collaboration is the key, different minds might bring opposite ideas but when combined gives great results and also is an opportunity to introduce your work to other people working in different fields. The followers or customers of that particular person or brand will get to know and love what you do, and that’s a bonus.
What does your design process look like?
My starting point is always fabric sourcing just to imagine what I could make from them. That, alongside finding the new collection ‘mood’ which could be from an experience, music, film, a place or someone walking down the street. And then come the sketches, my favourite part of the process.
How do you decide which designs go into production? Is it a gut feeling?
That is the tricky part as I always feel like I could come up with better designs and that’s where I get stuck. At that point I will just trust my instinct and go with it.
Sustainability is a key pillar of the brand - what advice would you give to designers who are just starting out on their journey towards becoming more sustainable?
I would say to put trust in what you believe is correct as the world will make you feel that it is impossible. I know it is difficult to be 100% sustainable, and you do not need to be 100% sustainable - the little you do from your end will make a huge difference. It is difficult as it is super expensive and it prevents you from being more experimental, but it is not impossible.
Most of your designs are made from organic, animal friendly and recycled materials - has this always been important to you?
Yes, that is correct. It has always been important to me and I developed more interest about the subject at University, as they introduced to me some other issues I wasn’t aware of. It is sad to know that what I love to do harms our planet!
What have you learnt about starting a fashion brand since leaving London College of Fashion?
I learnt that it is a long process to get it right. I learnt that I need to work hard for my brand to be noticed, and still do. I didn’t have experience in how to build a brand and I think it would have been easier if I had spent more time working for other designers. Specifically to learn more about how business works, as university did not prepare me enough.
What’s your future vision for the brand?
I want the brand to become a household name with a strong identity, expand into other product ranges and collaborate with other creatives I admire.
In the next few years, I envision the brand developing and manufacturing the garments in Guinea Bissau and creating a living wage for the locals. Also collaborating with artists and artisans in the rural areas in order to promote cultural practices such as hand-weaving and hand-knitting that are decreasing due to the increase of mass-produced clothing.
Could you could describe the JÚ customer in just a few words?
I imagine the JÚ customer as someone that expresses their taste for artistry through fashion and style, someone self-assured and confident with a distinctive sartorial presence. Perhaps someone like me.
And your own style aesthetic in just a few words?
I would say my personal style is timeless and relaxed fused with tailoring, and sometimes more ‘daring, but keep it modest’.
Finally, what’s next for JÚ?
I am correctly working on FW22 which I believe will be a game changer for the brand, so stay tuned!
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