Q&A with GFW Technical Drawing award finalist Lydia Claxton
All Eyes chats with recent Leeds Arts University graduate Lydia Claxton about her final menswear collection “Future Commuter”, her experience studying Fashion Design at University and her inspirations.
Lydia is a recent fashion design graduate from Leeds Arts University and Graduate Fashion Week Finalist. Always designing with a conscious mind, she specialises in menswear, and uses sustainable resources and materials where possible. In particular, she loves mixing traditional wool and tailoring fabrics with smart and technical materials and finishes.
Congratulations Lydia, you’re a finalist for the Technical Drawing GFW award! Would you consider technical drawing one of your best skills as a designer?
I had never really considered it being one of my best skills, though I always took a lot of care with my technical drawings as they are so important when designing. I was actually really surprised when I was nominated. I also very much look up to both the judges I had, so to get the chance for them to see my work was very surreal.
Are there any brands or designers you are loving currently?
I have enjoyed seeing the new designs by Samuel Ross (A-COLD-WALL*), and Bianca Saunders, who was one of the judges judging me for the GFW award which was amazing. Both quite different from each other, but both carving their way and creating their mark in the fashion industry which is really inspiring to see.
I recently went to an event at the Invisible Men Exhibition at Westminster, London where Samuel Ross explained more about his concepts and I loved his way of thinking and how he approached design from different angles.
Your collection “Future Commuter” mixes sportswear with tailoring, where did this idea come from? Is there anything in particular that inspired this?
The initial research that inspired my collection was through my dissertation answering the question: Is there a need for climate-disaster clothing and if so, what changes, advancements and ideas are being developed by professionals within the fashion industry to prepare for a post-climate change society?
The dissertation explored the key components leading up to present-day protective clothing, the need for different variations of protective clothing and the increased need for more easily-wearable protective clothing. The research focused on the accelerated need for clothing protecting against the extreme elements due to continuing climate change effects and was written to address the negative impacts the fashion industry has on climate change such as overconsumption, and yet how in parallel to this, climate change is also negatively impacting the fashion industry.
This research inspired the refinement of these ideas into a business-wear and sportswear mixed collection that creates protection from the elements, and is practical, functional, and as sustainable as possible.
Where did the name “Future Commuter” come from and who do you see wearing this collection?
From the start of designing my collection, I was always designing around the ‘commuter’. I found inspiration from the multiple environmental elements that can be faced on the commute, not to mention fatigue, exhaustion etc.
My designs also have a futuristic aesthetic with silver, blue and technical fabrics so I thought the term ‘future’ would fit well. My designs were based around someone commuting from place to place and the environmental barriers they may face that I could use the clothes to protect from, the most common ones including rain, wind, and erratic weather.
Your final collection includes sustainable fabrics, what is your opinion of sustainability within the fashion industry as a whole?
I think sustainability is extremely important, and I think it is even more important for emerging students, as usually the collections are not bought or really worn much except shows and shoots, so it can cause a lot of waste in the long run. However, sustainability can be more expensive, and I know from speaking to fellow students and friends who really do struggle to afford their collections that it can be difficult.
I managed to find suppliers that sold me dead stock and old fabrics for very little, and I also used scraps of old clothes I had and bought from charity shops. I think the key is just to be as sustainable as you can, within reason.
You mentioned dead stock, are there any specific fabrics you love to work with?
I have always been interested in outerwear fabrics and outdoor fabrics such as nylons and polyesters. I love working with waterproof fabric and I love working with tailoring fabrics so it worked out very well for my collection!
Waterproof can be tricky at times and it’s hard to unpick as it can leave small holes, but I just love working with both those materials, I think probably because I like designing outerwear, therefore I get excited to make and see the final garment.
We went into lockdown during the production of your final collection, were there any major adaptions you had to take?
Carrying on finishing my outfits was definitely the biggest challenge. I only had a basic sewing machine and no other equipment really at home. I was sewing three-dimensional parts on my garments and it was a struggle to get them under my machine, but I knew everyone was in a similar situation and it was such an unusual time for us all I was just happy to still be working and could just throw myself into the work.
I am so proud of myself and my whole class, and every other graduate for the amount that they have adapted - it is truly inspiring.
What is it about menswear that you love? You’re a menswear designer, any particular reason you chose menswear over womenswear?
I was originally doing womenswear and it was only in my second year when we did a menswear module that I really found my love for it. I had never really considered before. Now, I always find myself gravitating towards menswear, even in my personal style. I think it was the technical side that brought me in initially and the detail, and I had always had a real passion for fine tailoring, in menswear and womenswear.
Did you get the chance to collaborate with other students during your time at University?
Yes! I collaborated with two students from my university. The photographer, a fashion photography student; Georgina Oakley, reached out to me as she wanted to create a lookbook and video for my collection, we also got in touch with a graphic design student; Freya Louise-Phillips who worked alongside Georgina in creating logos and moving graphics for the lookbook and film.
I think collaborating with other students is a great experience, and I really loved the work we created together.
In hindsight, is there any piece of advice you’d give yourself at the beginning of your degree?
I would definitely tell myself to go with my gut feeling when it comes to designs. I would say to new students to make decisions quickly, go with the first idea you thought of because it is usually your most raw and original. And, I know it’s cliché, but try to enjoy it, it can be difficult when you’re working so many hours, but the year goes so fast, I would give anything to be back in the studio with my classmates again, so really value your time there, and final year especially.
What are you most looking forward to as you enter the industry?
I am really looking forward to exploring all the options out there and just gaining as much experience as I can, and meeting different people. I am not 100% sure yet what I am wanting to do first, so I am just excited to really develop my passion in the industry and help support other designers along the way.
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For more of Lydia’s work, you can find her on Instagram.
