Q & A with Mengying Li
We discuss with designer Mengying Li his explorative themes of acoustics, chromesthesia and psychology within his latest collection the ‘Sound of Happiness’.
What do you love about menswear?
I’m interested in the menswear system. Personally, I believe greater demands are placed on menswear - in terms of style, cloth and craftwork. Therefore, designers need to continuously explore their design skills. Besides, customers have gradually evolved into demanding more detailed designs and the kinds that men wear are increasing. Therefore, there is still a lot of room for development in menswear design.
Your AW19 collection is super unique - could you tell us the inspiration behind it?
The collection “Sound of Happiness” focuses on the visualisation of sound. I collected and analysed the sounds which form our lives. This experiment based research supports the methodology of the analytical process.
Meanwhile, the discussion about the connections between sound, space and colour are underpinned by the research into acoustics, chromesthesia and psychology. This helped in developing the methodology of pattern cutting, material sourcing and palette. Specifically, the material (wadding and resin) I used is to express the absorption or reflection of sounds.
What’s your favourite garment from the collection and why?
I prefer the “space suit” look. Because I spent most of the time on that look and it is also the most expensive one in the whole collection. (LOL)
What designers have influenced you most in your work?
My course leader, Mr Darren Cabon. He taught me how to become a professional designer and made me consider the balance between artistic and commercial value in fashion design. I also admire the way Japanese designers think and work, such as Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake.
They apply oriental philosophy into the working process and convey contemporary images of fashion. They are highly engaged in their work and constantly update their use of material and techniques.
When creating the lookbook for your collection what was the vision?
I always want to express a happy and novel image of menswear. That is why the collection is called “Sound of Happiness”. When working with the photography team, we wanted to involve the sense of outer space, futurism and humour. We asked models to jump when we took photos, which makes them look like they’re floating in the air.
“I also admire the way Japanese designers think and work, such as Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake. They apply oriental philosophy into the working process and convey contemporary images of fashion.”
How has the reaction been to the collection?
People laughed! When I was in the internal show it was hard for me to receive direct feedback from the audience because we needed to stay backstage. But my friend who was in the audience said that when the models came out in my collection, people laughed! They were happy with my designs and that is exactly what I wanted from them. I am very happy with this reaction.
When creating a collection do you look at past, present or upcoming trends for inspiration?
It depends, my working habits are to first find a theme/topic I am interested in and then start to do the primary and secondary research. Sometimes the process needs to be supported by the trends or even the influence they bring, such as the topics relation to history or certain fashion styles.
Who would be the ideal person to wear one of your designs?
No-one specifically, but happy people or people who want to have a fun time！
And lastly, what can we expect to see from you for the rest of the year / early 2020?
I will continue on the research of this project and try to set up a studio with a friend. If everything goes well, we will launch our capsule collection in winter.
To keep up to date with Mengying Li, you can follow the brand on Instagram here.
