What’s Secretly Shaping our Style? Pt. II
In my previous post I discussed exactly how trends form, the effect social media has on this and of course, my love of Elle Woods. In this post I’ll be exploring examples of the many ways in which our eyes can be opened to new influences rocking the foundations of the industry - from political and social movements to TV shows and music. The dramatic impact these factors can have not only on personal style but the global fashion footprint, is undeniable.
Global Movements.
By now, we’re probably tired of hearing about Covid-19, however we can’t deny the life changing effects this pandemic has had on the fashion industry, not to mention us all.
A major change in the fashion industry has been the way everyone works. We now see 90% of the creative industry working from home (source: Creativepool) and fashion shows taking place completely virtually - something we anticipated, but not for years into the future. As an industry we have been forced to look at the importance of technology more than ever before, and have been able to use this time to develop and discover more ways to utilise technology, which we should take as a positive.
“Seasonality has been disappearing for some time, and now more than ever, it’s time for us to finally say goodbye to that and allow the creative expression from designers to sit within their timeframe or what feels right for their consumers or their audience — not to what the industry dictates it should be.” - Vogue Business
Another element that seems will now stick with us for years to come is the addition of a mask. Over the last year we have seen companies expand their accessory lines to introduce the mandatory PPE. Fabric masks with different designs, prints and colourways to the traditional surgery masks are now an everyday staple. I’m personally the proud owner of quite an extensive mask collection, so that I have something for every outfit. Wearing a mask when feeling unwell was already a polite way to act prior to the pandemic in Japan. And when thinking about this, you wonder why everywhere was not doing this before to ensure the health and safety of others. This is an element many of us will adopt into our new lifestyles - I know I definitely will be, when using public transport especially!
Although infection rates are currently waning, India, the ‘secret heart of the fashion industry’, is still experiencing a huge Covid Crisis. I describe India as the ‘secret heart’ of the fashion industry as so many garments are coming through from India, but we are not made aware of this as the consumer. Just because something says ‘Made in Italy’ on the label or swing-tag does not mean this is where the majority of production was based - instead, you will probably find that India played a much more dominate role in the creation of your ‘Italian’ garment.
Many globally-known brands cancelled orders at the start of the lockdowns - after orders had been made brands refused to pay which resulted in them being publicly called out via the #PayUp petition. Many brands have since paid-up, but not all.
“9 in 10 Gen Z consumers believe companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues.” — McKinsey
Brands and retailers continue to choose India for production purposes knowing there’s little employment and health and safety security in place. It’s time for brands to finally speak up about the behind the scenes truths and ethics of their processes. Consumers are demanding more from brands in their engagement with socio-political values , with BOF x McKinsey State of Fashion 2021 Report stating that 66% of consumers said they would stop or significantly reduce shopping at a brand if they found it was not treating its employees or suppliers’ employees fairly.
GoFundMe pages have been created to try and support the workers through this but this is not enough - the only way to tackle this crisis is to educate ourselves, its time to understand the hidden elements of this industry and let this change your mindset (and potentially shopping habits). Ultimately, I can only hope that we take the time to learn about the production, history and past life of our clothing, and not just how it looks on the hanger.
“Unconscious consumption is falling out of fashion. It’s incredibly important that this thought trickles down through all levels of the market.” — Tom Berry, director of sustainability for Farfetch on BBC.com
A year ago, the world received the news that George Floyd had been murdered by four Minneapolis policemen. The heart-breaking scenes were captured on video and spread across not only the US but the globe, resulting in world-wide protests to spread the awareness of 21st Century Racism and to ultimately show the world that Black Lives Matter, and always have. Brands took to socials to speak up against racism and to make a vow to implement the changes they should have done years ago as they strive for diversity, which there is often a lack of in not just the fashion industry, but any industry. Representation for young people is not up for debate, every little boy or girl should be able to look through a magazine and see someone who represents their future selves. That is not a want but a need for the younger members of our society - to champion fairness and social justice.
A few years earlier, the #MeToo movement emerged in 2017 after Seattle Silence Breakers spoke out regarding sexual harassment within Seattle City Light. In 2006 activist Tarana Burke created a ‘Me Too’ Myspace page for women to feel safe to share their experiences of sexual harassment. Due to the power of social media this idea grew in 2017 after producer Harvey Weinstein was accused of sexual assault. ‘Me Too’ quickly became a global safe space for women to own their power and understand they were not alone.
“She was asking for it” is a phrase that gets thrown around when it comes to what someone was wearing during their encounter with harassment. With thanks to the #MeToo movement, the negativity behind this phrase has been brought to light. Finally, the breaking down of this phrase will allow women to feel comfortable and take full autonomy in wearing whatever they want, because no matter what you wear harassment is never your fault.
On-screen Catalysts.
Now, let’s take a look into what has impacted and inspired the fashion choices of the world direct from our TV sets. It’s clear from the below examples that it’s not just the aspirational elements of these characters lifestyles that inspire us from the screen, but the items they wear that we can slot straight into our own wardrobes at home.
The period drama ‘Bridgerton’ made its way into our hearts during the third lockdown here in London and it quickly became the talk of the nation. It created a world that mixed both the Regency era with ideas from our modern-day lifestyle, with the help of some classically modern music - aspirational yet familiar. Through this, corsets and ballgowns became the universal want of the early months of 2021 and TikTok was a key indicator as to where this trend began. Its takeover with the #corset now stands at 1.8B views and the videos under this include how to tie corsets, how to style corsets and more specifically where to buy specific Bridgerton styled corsets. These videos are gaining millions of views and hundreds of thousands of likes.
As time has passed, the trend has moved away from being labelled ‘Bridgerton’ and the garments the show inspired are now available in most mainstream shops - this is how we can understand the power TV and media has on the viewer.
When it came down to a third lockdown, everyone became a little more on edge, and not being able to see friends and family meant there again was no other outlet than Netflix. Bridgerton created a somewhat perfect lifestyle and an ideal of beauty that inspired us - I do wonder however, if we weren’t in a lockdown would the show have had as much traffic around it? Would it be as popular? Was Bridgerton specifically just the change we needed during this dark time, or could it have been another TV show worth striving for?
The ‘Peaky Blinders’ series is another craze that takes us back in time to a period we never got to experience. With storylines set in 1920’s Birmingham the show portrays every element of the classic styles within this time. Due to the record number of viewers with an overall 3.84 million viewers for its series five finale, there’s no doubt the flat cap was about to make its return.
Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has been a huge influence when using these heavy fabrics, 3-piece suits, boots and anything with a 20’s twang to it. He amongst a multitude of others, has cited vintage British fashion as one of his biggest fashion inspirations. With a record-breaking show behind huge designers loving the old British style its only natural that the 20’s will continue to make a roaring return into our wardrobes, even before we realise.
Back in 1999 ‘The Matrix’ made its way onto our screens and two decades later, you guessed it, it’s still on our screens. Even as someone that wasn’t born when this film premiered, I can still see how my style takes influence from this iconic film.
Elements from the futuristic lifestyles of the characters can now be seen in our own lives, if we look closely enough. The characters in the film were way ahead of their time when it comes to up-cycling — a concept that’s gaining momentum today. Due to the lack of resources, when someone died the other characters would take their clothes and remake them into something else.
“Secondhand market is set to hit $64B in the next 5 years, ultimately outpacing fast fashion by 2029. And it’s Gen Z and millennials who are adopting second hand faster than any other age group.” - Thread up
Another notable fashion aspect from the film is of course, the iconic futuristic sunglasses and long leather trench look. The stylistic choices in this film gained a large amount of attraction from the fashion industry and continue to do so. Whenever I grab my statement sunglasses on the way out, I always think ‘I have ‘The Matrix’ to thank for this’.
Overall, I think we can all confirm trends are created everyday through a variety of different mediums around us, directly in front of our eyes even if we don’t realise it. Maybe now when the next big series comes out, we’ll each be looking for the next thing to claim.
If you have been affected by anything mentioned in this post, please reach out for help and know you are not alone - You have more power than you realise ❤
Women’s Aid Helpline — 0808 2000 247
Samaritans — 08457 90 90 90
24 Hour Helpline for Racial Violence Support — 0800 374 618
Stop Hate Crime 24 Hour Helpline — 0800 138 1625
Resources - linktr.ee/ACTION
Please also find links below to help India during this time.
COVID-19 India Crisis | Donate | Save the Children UK
Resources - linktr.ee/supportindia
