BOLZANO AND TRENTO, 2 WONDERFUL ALPINE CITIES
They call it the “gateway to the Dolomites”, because Bolzano (Bozen, in German) is a true must for any tourist heading to the Dolomites in search of trekking, hiking or (in winter) skiing and snowboarding. Bolzano was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918, and today it exists as a hybrid city, a bridge between the Germanic and Italian culture. Abroad its name is not as well-known or revered like that of Rome or Florence, but it is surely one of the most fascinating and cozy Italian cities.
Italian journalist Guido Piovene, who visited it in the early fifties for his famous book “A trip in Italy”, described it as an “opulent, modern” city, shining with “gothic beauty”. It’s been over half a century since Piovene’s visit, but his words are still true. It takes only a few steps through the luxury boutiques and refined coffee shops of its refined historic centre to see that Bolzano is a prosperous city. Elegant hotels are not in short supply, specifically the liberty-style Parkhotel Laurin, with its Art Nouveau frescoes and large botanical garden filled with flora from all over the world, merits the short walk from the train station. Quite the hidden spot and thus perfect place to take a relaxing break, taste a slice of one of Bolzano’s excellent cakes, or enjoy a glass of “Gewürztraminer”, the preferred local white wine.
Ma la sua bellezza è gotica: le lunghe vie fiancheggiate dai portici, abbellite non tanto da questa o quella costruzione, quanto dal movimento degli angoli e delle sporgenze, che crea fondali di teatro, giochi di luce. (G. Piovene su Bolzano, Viaggio in Italia, Baldini Castoldi Dalai)
Sometimes the Mitteleuropean appearance of the streets can make you think you are in Switzerland or Austria. At the same time there is also some magic in the air: in the valley around Bolzano there is perhaps the highest density of castles in Europe. Runkelstein Castel (Roncolo), built in 1237 on a rocky outcrop, is one of the most famous. Very well preserved, with beautiful frescoes representing court life, knights and tournaments, and the deeds of Tristan, Isolde and King Arthur. Mareccio castle, standing in the middle of a vineyard, is another impressive example offering a splendid view of the mountains.
Culture lovers have plenty of choice in Bolzano. Among the many museums, the modern and contemporary art Museion certainly deserves a visit. Designed by the German Krüger Schuberth Vandreike studio, this cube-shaped building with glass facades fits naturally between the historic centre and Bolzano’s newer neighborhoods along the river Talvera. The Museion houses 500 works by international and local artists, uniting German and Italian artistic expressions. Meanwhile, History buffs can head to the Archaeological Museum, whose permanent exhibition spans the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. The undoubted star of the collection is the Iceman “Ötzi”, a 5000 year-old mummy that hundreds of students from both sides of the Alpine slopes visit each year.
After the success of Bolzano’s renowned Christmas market in the main square, where visitors and locals alike can find meticulously handcrafted products and local gastronomical delights, the end of April brings the Festival of Flowers as the city transforms into a colorful, sweet-smelling garden. Among palm trees, oleanders, olive trees and magnolias, nature floods the historic centre, and gardening enthusiasts can buy flowers and plants from an exotic selection.
Relaxing and healing waters are also an option. Less than an hour by train north of Bolzano is Merano (Meran), a charming small town amidst peaks covered in meadows and dotted with beautiful Austrian-style mountain chalets. You can visit the cheery old town or take a peaceful stroll along the river, lined with bars and cozy restaurants. But the true attraction in Merano are its Thermal baths: almost 8,000 square meters of indoor and outdoor swimming pools and 50,000 sq m of parkland and green grass to lounge upon and while pampering yourself with the various saunas, steam and mud baths, massages, beauty treatments and fitness areas. Once you get out, rested and healthy, you may want to visit the Principesco castle, in the historic centre. You can even combine the visit to a castle with a good lunch in a very special setting (like Kallmünz castle), a good glass of wine (at Rametz) and even a good sleep (in the hotels of Verrucca, Pflanzenstein or Rundegg Castle).
Giunsi a Bolzano con un bel sole allegro. La vista di tutti quei volti di mercanti mi piacque: se ne riceve la netta impressione d’un’esistenza fattiva ed agiata (J. W. Goethe, Viaggi in Italia, Mondadori)
Heading back south along the Adige river you arrive in Trento, a city surrounded by mountains and often referred to as the “Silicon valley of the Alps” thanks to the university and many research centers. Rich in history and culture, Trento has managed to combine tradition and modernity, quality of life and efficiency. For those who visit it, the city offers castles and museums, activities and outdoor sports, as well as an on par gastronomy scene. Just like Bolzano, in December Trento houses a lively Christmas market, while at the end of May the city centre is transformed into a vibrant scientific arena for its Festival dell’Economia, an event now heading in to its 11th edition, gathering the best national and international economists to debate subjects such as social mobility and social inequalities.
The main feature of the old town is the Duomo square, with its Romanesque cathedral of San Vigilio, the Praetorian Palace and civic tower, Neptune’s fountain, with its varied tritons and sea horses; and the facades of Cazuffi-Rella houses, decorated with mythological frescoes dating back to the sixteenth century. However, the historic centre of Trento is actually dominated by the Buonconsiglio castle, probably the largest monument in the Trentino-Alto Adige region. Inside the manor, the prior residence of Trento’s Prince Bishops from the thirteenth to the eighteenth century, you are surrounded by frescoes and decorations from the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. Still, the Buonconsiglio (meaning “good advice”) is best known for its Cycle of the months inside the “Eagle tower”, dating back to the fifteenth century. This series of panels represent everyday scenes of the nobility, as well as agricultural and pastoral activities typical of each season. The castle is also a museum, housing collections ranging from ancient to contemporary art.
Biologia sintetica. Lettura della mente. Tecnologie semantiche. Genomi sequenziati. Suona come un romanzo di Philip Dick, ma in Trentino è cronaca. Questa montagnosa terra di confine, con il cattolicesimo nel Dna, sta scommettendo sempre di più su ricerca e innovazione (G. Catania, Se l’Italia innova come Trento ce la fa, Linkiesta.it)
It is commonly known that mountain air increases the appetite and luckily in Trento it’s easy satisfy with excellent restaurants such as the Scrigno del Duomo. In spring and summer you can eat or just drink a glass of good wine while enjoying the view of the Neptune fountain and the bustle of the Piazza Duomo, especially with nearby restaurants like “I tre garofani”, “Le due spade”, and more casual tavern-style restaurants such as the “Forst”. Among the most popular and typical dishes of Trentino’s cuisine is the famous “canederli” (big dumplings prepared in soup or cheese-sauce) or the polenta (boiled cornmeal), carne salada (sliced horse or beef meat) and tortel di patate (a sort of potato pancake). You can also taste local wines, such as the red Teroldego and the renowned Ferrari spumante, produced in Trento and exported to the United States, Scandinavia and Japan.
From the clean and tidy centre you can easily wander down to the Science Museum MUSE, designed by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Outside, its futuristic structure is an homage to the mountains that surround it (the treasure of Trentino, as it embraces the Dolomites, a world heritage site); the interior has been developed into six large and very bright levels housing temporary exhibitions and the permanent collection that ranges from an Afromontane rain forest to Alpine nature and biodiversity. Interactivity is the mantra of the museum, which was especially designed for children and students. From the panoramic rooftop terrace, one has a tremendous vista of the mountains encircling the city and the rooftops of the new neighborhood “Albere”, also designed by Renzo Piano.
Trento is also the ideal place for those who love nature and outdoor activities: if it is praised for its high quality of life is also because it is just a few minutes away from marvelous wooded landscapes. For example the Saint Lake in Cembra, where a winding road takes you to the perfect lookout to admire the Pyramids of Segonzano: tall columns of earth topped by porphyry rock, completely natural and dating back to the last ice age. Or the beautiful Toblino Lake with a fifteenth century castle (also named Toblino, housing a restaurant) perched on a small peninsula that extends into the lake; and of course the inimitable Lake Garda, that Trentino shares with two other Italian regions, Lombardy and the Veneto, where you can enjoy water sports such as sailing and kitesurfing.
In winter, ski lovers are spoiled for choice: in Val di Fiemme, where several World Ski Championships were held, there are beautiful trails for cross-country skiing; and across the province there are numerous tracks for downhill skiing and mountaineering. At the end of a long day on the slopes, you can always have a snack of luganega and maybe some vin brulé served hot at any refreshment point.
(writing and translation: G. Trovato and V. Giambartolomei proofreading: M. O’ Callaghan)
