The Baron of San Rafael
by Robert L. Harrison
Baron Johann Heinrich von Schroeder (1852–1927) was a native of Germany and a veteran of the Franco-Prussian and first World Wars. He was the eldest son and heir to the estates and titles of the Von Schroeder family. In 1880, after 10 years he retired from the Prussian Army and began a tour around the world eventually arriving in San Francisco in 1881.
Von Schroeder’s dignified bearing and unpretentious manner won him many friends in San Francisco’s high society. On November 27, 1883 he married Mamie Donahue, the only daughter of Peter Donahue, builder of the Union Iron Works in the City and the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad in Marin.
The wedding as described in San Francisco Call offers an illustration of his standing in society circles: “The best man [was] Consul-General Fligel of Germany….The brother of the bride, J. Mervyn Donahue, was usher….Among the guests were families of D. O. Mills [wealthy San Francisco banker and railway executive], John Roach[San Francisco dealer of survey instruments], Ogden Mills [son of Darius], J. C. Flood [famous Nevada silver mine “Bonanza King”], and Leland Stanford [former California Governor and president of the Central Pacific and Southern Pacific Railroads].” The ceremony took place at the New York City residence of the first American Cardinal, Archbishop of New York, John McCloskey with Vicar-General Quinn conducting the ceremony.
With his wealth and prominent associates, many in attendance at his wedding, Baron Von Schroeder was a natural target to assist in financing a grand luxury resort hotel in San Rafael. The August 2, 1888 Marin Journal reported on a stockholders meeting, held on July 25, 1888, where he and the other investors learned that nearly $200,000 ($5.4 million in 2020 dollars) had been spent. “For this the company has one of the best hotels in the world….It is splendidly kept, is full of guests, and is doing a business of some $10,000 ($270,000 in 2020 dollars) a month, with a handsome margin of profit….”
Von Schroeder was the manager of Hotel Rafael when it opened with 101 rooms in 1888. It was a magnificent building, by far the most significant structure in Marin County, resembling the elegance of San Diego’s Hotel del Coronado or Monterey’s Del Monte Hotel. It featured many activities and amenities including: several banquet halls, a stable, tennis, golf, bowling, billiard rooms, and a photo crafting darkroom. Internationally famous tennis players competed on the Rafael’s grandstand bordered courts where once the National Women’s Championship was held.
Bathing, however, was not available at the Hotel but was available at the San Rafael Salt Water Baths, an open-air public bathing area some blocks from the Hotel. In 1901 the Canal was dredged near the Irwin Street bridge to create an improved outdoor saltwater bath. It was not until 1915 that San Rafael had an indoor salt water bathing facility.
The lack of a modern salt water bathing area led the Marin Journal on July 24, 1890 to propose “Lake San Rafael”. The Journal noted, “The one thing lacking to the beauty and attractiveness of San Rafael is a body of water, conveniently situated, to afford the privilege of acquatic (sic) sports and pastimes.” The newspaper’s proposal suggested “a charming lake on the town front, which would add this one thing wanting in our environment….And supposing it were surrounded by a boulevard, say two hundred feet wide, shaded with stately trees, affording an enticing promenade, a lovely drive, lined with bath houses, and the lake supplied with row and sail boats, and affording every acquatic (sic) diversion.” The Journal concluded, “….we ask the attention of such men as the Baron von Schroeder, Mr. Bigelow, and others, to the idea.”
As early as August 1890 the Hotel Rafael Company considered a plan to add salt water baths convenient to its grounds. Von Schroeder offered a specific proposal for a salt water bath in August 1895. He would agree to erect two bath tanks of pure salt water if the City of San Rafael would contribute a subsidy of $6,000 toward an estimated project cost of $40,000 to $50,000. In its October 3, 1895 editorial the Marin Journal expressed excitement regarding the offer: “It is not every day, month or year that gives to San Rafael an opportunity of obtaining a $60,000 plant for a paltry subsidy of $6,000….”
Perhaps it was von Schroeder’s deteriorating reputation that led to the City’s rejection of the Baron’s offer. In the 1890s the Baron turned to cavorting with women and drinking heavily in a manner quite shocking for the period. The San Francisco Call of October 25, 1899 headlined: “Scandal’s Blight on the Hotel Rafael. Baron von Schroeder Destroyed It as a Reputable Resort.” The Call’s reports of his behavior led the Baron to file a criminal libel suit against its publisher, John D. Spreckels. After the criminal suit failed von Schroeder resorted to a civil action charging libel and asking for $250,000 ($7.75 million in 2020 dollars) damages.
When the suit reached Marin Superior Court in December 1900 the Spreckels’ defense submitted additional evidence of the Baron’s disgraceful behavior. Witnesses testified of lewd and lascivious interludes in midnight orgies with countless women. A server at the Hotel’s clubroom testified, “….he did place his hands upon the bosoms of said married woman and did expose the same…” Other witnesses testified that he took women to Pastori’s Restaurant in Fairfax where they would be induced to drink until they were helpless.
The Baron offered little in his own defense. The Jury found that he had not been injured by the articles printed in the Call. He was also held accountable for the charges against him and liable to pay all court costs. Von Schroeder appealed the verdict and in February 1906, some five years later, he was somewhat vindicated when Spreckels offered to settle and he accepted a judgement in the sum of $1,000.
The Baron’s anti-social behavior and liaisons undoubtedly hastened the Hotel Rafael’s decline. Despite its high-end clientele the Hotel lost money and by 1909 it was closed. Von Schroeder attempted to sell the Hotel but there were no takers. In 1914 he returned to his native land to serve as a Major in the Germany Army in World War I. He survived the war and following a lengthy illness died in Hamburg on May 8, 1927.
After the United States entered World War I in 1917, the Hotel became alien property. In 1919 the building was used as a hospital for victims of the Spanish flu pandemic. It reopened in 1921 and prospered into the 1920s. On July 29, 1928 the Hotel was engulfed in a suspicious fire and burned down in three hours. All 134 guests escaped without injury but many lost their personal belongings.
The story ends on a sour note. The Baron, having fought against America in World War I, died as an enemy of the United States, the Hotel property became a residential subdivision, and Lake San Rafael was never realized. At the corner of Rafael Drive and Belle Avenue two of the four original entrance pillars to the hotel grounds can still be seen, all that remains of the grand establishment.
Originally published at https://annetkent.kontribune.com.
