Dressing Like a Kingsman
Part I: Three Ways to Dress Like a Gentleman Spy
Kingsman: The Secret Service is a modern take on the over-the-top gentlemen spy films of the 70s and 80s, complete with ridiculous gadgets, memorable villains, and a great wardrobe. For men who want to know how to dress distinctively, Kingsman is a great crash course in menswear trends.
All the super spies in the secret agency Kingsmen dress in traditional British attire with some modern updates. Above is Colin Firth in a grey double-breasted birdseye wool suit. Three points to take from his get-up:
Slim-fit is still king
His jacket tapers at the waist just enough to give it form; the armholes are high up; his trousers and jacket sleeves do not have extra fabric flapping about. But notice his trousers are tailored, not a skinny cut – he’s a gentleman spy, not a rock star.
Hems matter
About half an inch of the white sleeves peeks out and ends right exactly where his thumb meets the wrist. I’ve never seen such a perfect ratio of shirt-to-jacket sleeve length in the real world before, and it is a beauty to behold, even in film. Also, the trousers just barely hit the top of his shoes, which is what is called a “light break” in tailor-speak. A light break maintains the clean lines of the suit while showing off the shoes and when seated, provides a good look at the socks. Which should be awesome, too. Alas, Kingsmen do not wear fun socks, and therefore are out of the purview of this article.
Grey Suit + White Shirt = Win
The classic grey suit and a white shirt still fit the bill, no matter the occasion. Job interview? Evening wedding? Afternoon wedding? Dinner date? Happy hour? Doesn’t matter; grey and white gets the job done, and does it damn well. Grey and white provides a handsome, neutral palette to build on and individualize with accessories. In this shot, Mr. Darcy is going conservative with a dark tie, white pocket square, and black shoes, but he could easily have gone with a paisley tie and purple suede shoes, and still looked awesome.
One Piece of Fashion-Forward Advice
If Kingsman is any indication, double-breasted suits are the next big thing in men’s suiting. As Put This On points out, even J. Crew is including double breasted suits in their latest collection. It’s far from trendy at this point but if you’re looking for a fashion power-move that’s on the cusp of going mainstream, this is it.
But…
Suits are awesome because every guy looks great in one. But this isn’t the 1920s — we’re a casual culture and a hoodie and blue jeans is acceptable at home, work, or at a restaurant. Unlike the Bond films, Kingsman features notable casual street-styles as well as formalwear. Stay tuned for part 2 that focuses on what we can learn from the costumes worn by the characters who can’t afford expensive Savile Row suits.
Like what you see? Almost all of the outfits and accessories worn by Kingsmen can be bought through Mr. Porter. The Kingsman line includes double-breasted suits, handsome watches, black oxford shoes, and other high-end items from some of the best (and expensive) names in the business. Hopefully the next collection will carry an explosive cigarette lighter and poison-carrying fountain pen.
