Days 12 - 13, The Trans-Siberian Express: from Kazan to Krasnoyarsk
I don’t know at what time I got up on the first day of our trip. The day before, my mobile was playing tricks on me: the time is supposed to be synchronised with the network time, but was on several occasions and hour early or an hour behind than the actual time. Strange.
I go find Sophie who is two square down from me. She has already broken the ice with her fellow bunkmates, despite the language barrier. One of them can speak a few words of English, and with Google translate switching hands conversation is slow but possible.
We show pictures of our families, they show us theirs. We talk about our trip plans, Russia, France, and Putin. Danya, who we think is about our age has always been against Putin. Alexis, the older guy who knows a little English doesn’t agree, stating that the younger generation did not live under Gorbachev and Yeltsin.
Funny timing, when talking about how clean we thought the tourist areas of Saint Petersburg and Moscow were, one of the train crew was mopping the floor.
Each wagon has the commandant’s quarters at one end and two toilet cabins at the other. By the commandant’s quarters is a hot water tap which everyone uses for tea, coffee, hot chocolate, noodles and soup. I borrowed a mug from the commandant which I use for the whole trip. Much tea was drunk.
On the first day, the train stopped for about an hour in a tiny village. It was explained to use that there are only 2 tracks on the line, and trains stop at such areas to let others pass.
At this stop were a few local women selling various things to eat.
We welcome this break to stretch our legs and enjoy the sun and fresh air.
Back in the train, time goes by rather quickly. With stops here and there where some passengers leave and others board the train, we take the opportunity to walk around and stretch.
The first set of lights goes out at 20:00 and the second set of lights goes out at 22:00. There is a third set which stays on all night.
I have trouble going to sleep on this second night. The bunk is too short and the pillow too thick. I eventually doze off and get up on day 2 at 13:30, local time, wherever local is.
Time seems to have stopped and the train has developed a life of its own. Dania gets off the train at Novosibirsk where her 8 year old daughter is waiting. Before we arrive we take of a picture with everyone.
Yeah, I'm nearly not in that photo.
At Novosibirsk, we hug Dania and say goodbye. We take the opportunity to eat some of the food we bought at the supermarket before leaving Kazan. By now it is smelly and we don't want to eat it in the train. However, it is too smelly and is nauseating; I end up throwing what is left into the bin. Next time I'll buy some noodles.
Back on-board, the others are deep in conversation. It is frustrating not understanding anything that is being said, so I take out my Kindle and read.
I take a break from the current book I'm reading, "Hedge: A Greater Safety Net for the Entrepreneurial Age", and begin Marcus Aurelius's "Meditations".
Bed time comes, and for the second night in a row, it is hard finding a comfortable position, but I eventually doze off... Only to be woken up at 02:00 by an announcement on a loudspeaker from a station where the train appears to have stopped. I cannot go back to sleep. The commandant comes by at 05:00 to give me my ticket, signifying that it's time to get ready. We have an hour and a half left on the train.
It is peacefully quiet as those who leave at Krasnoyarsk get ready, queue at the toilets/bathroom to change or freshen up, and enjoy a last cup of tea or coffee sitting by the windows. Those who get off at other stops are still asleep.
We are graced with a beautiful view as we look out the window. A forest of pine trees with the sun rising above the tree tops, horizontal sun rays bath the train in a warm yellow light. It is with a sense of tranquility that we finish our journey, sipping tea and admiring the view, until we arrive at last at Krasnoyarsk.
On the morning of day 14, we step off the train, say goodbye to the other travelers, and make our way to the Benedict coffee club, which opens at 07:00.
We notice the whole town seems to be under heavy renovation.
Traveling all the way to Siberia to have an English breakfast on a table set featuring Benedict Cumberbatch: check.
