Days 20–25, Khuzir, Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal
The road to Olkhon Island
We got up quite early, and seeing that it was raining, decided to take the bus to the tourist office for 09:30, where the private bus would pick us up at 10:00.
At the tourist office we helped ourselves to tea, which was maybe a bad idea and you’ll find out why.
The private bus, was just a van fitted with rows of seats. Being the last ones in, we had no choice but to take the back row. The road to Olkhon Island is bumpy. Being in the back seat meant it was extra bumpy. And so, having drunk much tea, there I was being thrown up and down in the back row of a van.
Actually, we weren’t the last ones he picked up, for at some hotel two Chinese tourists got in the front. I was jealous and felt cheated.
Thankfully, the driver stopped for petrol just outside Irkutsk, and I was able to relieve my bladder. But the road was bumpy and the driver was driving really quickly and then suddenly breaking when he couldn’t overtake. I didn’t feel that well.
We then dropped for a short lunch break at which point, upon getting back in the van I managed to swap seats with the Chinese in the front.
From then on the journey was more enjoyable. I gradually felt better, and being in the front had the added bonus of providing a wide view of the scenery, seen as the windows in the back were small and very tinted.
We arrive at the ferry, where there a quite a few people on foot. The whole thing isn’t very organised.
Eventually our bus boards the ferry and we understand that to mean we must skip the line of people on foot and hurry onto the ferry.
Side note, did I mention our driver had only 4 fingers on each hand? That’s neither here nor there but I thought it was worth mentioning 😛
We get to the other side, get back on the bus, I’m still in the front seat, thankfully, because I didn’t know what was ahead of us. Did I think the road was bumpy until now? Boy, that was nothing compared to the dirt road on the island!
Khuzir
This is a small town/village halfway up the island, on the west coast. It lives off tourism, providing countless hostels, guesthouses and a couple of hotels. Bike rentals, excursion tours commonly to go to the north of the island. And a few souvenir stands and shops, and cafés.
There are quite a few start dogs around town.
Cows are free to roam around as they wish and can regularly be seen around town. We even witnessed some chasing a dog.
The main attraction just near the village is Shaman rock. Read for yourself ☺
Of course, I should also include the safety warnings.
We went to see shaman rock, but could not find any cave. Just above shaman rock are a number of wooden poles completely covered in coloured rags. This is supposed to ward off evil spirits… or something.
The first hostel we stayed in had only one shower and two toilets for the whole hostel, and was full of Chinese tourists, so we changed hostels on the second day.
Whilst we could have booked excursions to go to the north, they were not that cheap and there was plenty to enjoy just near Khuzir for the few days we were there. After changing hostels, we went to the biggest beach, where few people were actually in the water. Explained simply because it was cold.
Lake Baikal, at 456m of altitude, is the biggest lake on Earth in terms of volume. the water was very clear.
I was not feeling like venturing too far, preferring to spend these few days just relaxing and catching up after our marathon of Russian cities. So I spent a day or two mostly on a café terrace, taking in the view and pondering life goals and such, followed by aimlessly wandering around town.
This looks like the local Irish pub.
Near the village “harbour”, more likely pontoon, there were a few rusting boats in a row on the sand. I discarded them but followed up with a double take.
Street art, on boat hulls!
Cool!
Ah, more cows, having stroll along the beach.
When not spending the days by myself, we mostly sat down on some rocks by the water, trying to find the least windy spot, and read. I have now moved onto “The Prince” by Machiavelli.
We went stargazing on evening, and despite the town lights, were able to witness some impressive shooting stars. Sadly the camera on a mobile phone is useless for shooting stars. Pun intended.
There were also a few enjoyable sunsets.
All in all, I liked Olkhon island and I may return here one day. The occasion to explore other parts of the island.
