What to do in Prague, Czech Republic: a guide to must-Czech-out sights, bites & libations

Known as “the golden city of a hundred spires”, Prague’s compact medieval center remains a wonderful mixture of cobbled lanes, walled courtyards, cathedrals, and countless church spires.

Deanna Cheng
Art of Basic
10 min readJun 27, 2018

--

When I visited Prague in the summer of 2017 during my 35 day backpacking trip through Spain, Portugal, and central Europe, I was absolutely smitten.

72 hours in Prague gave me (and 2 of my dear friends) a taste of the city. And yes, by taste, I do mean we had a few bites to eat while meandering through the cobblestone streets…

Among all the historical charm, Prague is also a modern and vibrant city full of energy, music, and people who know a good time.

Read on to share in some of my Prague highlights.

Table of Contents / Map

  1. Sights: day time explorations (blue on map)
  2. Bites: not to be missed food (purple on map)
  3. Sweet bites, aka dessert (pink/purple on map)
  4. Drinks: beer gardens, wine bars, clubbing (yellow on map)

Enjoy!

1. Sights: day time explorations

☑ Go on a walking tour to learn about Prague’s rich history

In every new city I visit, I personally love spending 1.5–2 hours of my first morning on a walking tour. It’s the perfect way to get a lay of the land and also learn more about the city’s rich history.

In Europe, Sandeman’s New Europe tours is typically my go-to, simply because they have a good reputation for knowledgable yet charming tour guides who know how to tell a great story. It’s super simple to register a few days before your preferred date and they’re donation-based, so you only tip if you think they did a good job. Which they always do.

The Prague tour started in the Old Town Square where we admired one of the oldest astronomical clocks in the world: Prague Astronomical Clock, Orlaj. This clock not only measure the minutes and hours with its distinctive hand in the shape of the sun, but also tracks the days of the week, month, year, and zodiacal ring showing the path of the sun and moon through the sky (i.e., “Star time”). It’s currently under major renovation, and is expected to complete by the end of October 2018.

During the tour, we also visited the Jewish Quarter and other historical landmarks.

☑ Stroll across the Charles Bridge

Charles Bridge was completed in 1390, but only took Charles’ name in the 19th century — it was originally known simply as Kamenný most aka Stone Bridge (lol). You can take a walk on this bridge, or if you want a view OF the bridge itself, you can walk along the river or across any of the parallel bridges.

Because it’s at the top of every Prague visitor’s must-see list, if you want to have it all to yourself, you’ll have to visit at night or very early in the morning (i.e., at sunrise). Hint: perhaps before or after your night out clubbing?

☑ Visit Prague Castle, and also the Starbucks with the most rewarding view just outside the castle walls

Pražský Hrad, Kajetánka, Hradčanské nám., 118 00 Malá Strana, Czechia

Of course, Prague Castle is a must visit while in Prague (as it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and the largest coherent castle complex in the world — more than 750,000 square feet).

However, after you trek up to visit the castle, be sure to swing by this Starbucks before winding your way back down the hill. You’ll be rewarded with a veranda with the most beautiful views over the city of Prague.

☑ Visit the most beautiful library in the world: Strahov Library

Situated within the walls of the Strahov Monastery are two of the most magnificent library halls, dating back to the 17th century: Theological Hall and Philosophical Hall. If my college’s library looked like this, maybe I would have hit up the library more often. Just sayin’.

In addition to the entrance fee, you’ll need to purchase a photo pass to take photos, but hey gotta support the cause, right?

After, we grabbed a few beers from the Strahov Monastic Brewery. I don’t typically drink beer, but even I conceded and gave them a thumbs up. This microbrewery serves up some delicious staples as well as a few seasonal beers. Super charming ambiance and a good time!

☑ Pay tribute to John Lennon (and peace and harmony) at the John Lennon Wall

After John Lennon’s murder in 1980, he became a pacifist hero for many young Czechs. The wall first started with a painting of Lennon along with political graffiti and Beatles lyrics.

While authorities initially repeatedly tried whitewashing the walls, they have since bowed to the inevitable, and the wall is now a symbol of global ideals of love and peace. Quite romantic.

[ROW #1] strolling around Prague on our morning tour [ROW #2] views from the Charles Bridge, Astronomic clock, and Prague Castle [ROW #3] view from the infamous Starbucks veranda [ROW #4] Strahov Monastic Brewery, Strahov Library, and Lennon Wall

3. Bites: not to be missed food

☑ Order lunch at popular butcher shop Naše Maso, just down the street from Old Town Square

The late Anthony Bourdain went so far as to describe Czech Republic as “the land that vegetables forgot”. Meat lovers, rejoice!

What better place to grab lunch than at this old butcher shop, where they source meat directly from farms around Czech Republic who raise the animals, including Prestice pigs (an old Czech breed of pigs). Naše Maso, I want mas.

If you’re not looking to buy a raw hunk of meat to cook on your own, you can order and eat there like we did. The menu consists mainly of burgers and sausages, with a beef tartare dish, meat loaf and some cold cuts for good measure. But you can also order anything on display and they’ll cook it right up for you.

☑ Go next door to Bistro Sisters for some delicious (and IG-worthy) open-faced sandwiches

Prague’s classic lunchtime favorite is chlebícky aka an “open-faced sandwich”

Bistro Sisters makes a very modernized, elevated version of it. The flavor combinations displayed in the beautiful case are so well thought out. They were almost too pretty to eat, but surprise, they taste good too! So I had every last bite.

☑ …or just order an entire pork knuckle

Tbh I don’t remember what this place was called, but that pork knuckle was sow delicious. And alarmingly big. Who knows, this was probably a “tourist trap”, but I didn’t care. You know why? Because I felt like a barbarian and loved it.

[LEFT] yummy meat-forward lunch at Naše Maso [MIDDLE] open-faced sandwiches at Bistro Sisters [RIGHT] me with my giant pork knuckle

3. Sweet bites, aka dessert

☑ Enjoy traditional Czech desserts at Cafe Savoy

Cafe Savoy serves famous Czech classics such as pork schnitzel, as well as some beautiful basic brunches (from what I could tell from IG). The restaurant was recently renovated, yet still has its Neo-Renaissance feel.

I went for after-dinner desserts. Among other goodies, we tried the Makový koláček aka poppy seed cake. Was pleasantly surprised to find that the sweets here are not as cloyingly sweet as the ones we have in the States.

☑ Grab a revival-gelato from Angelato

In the blazing summer heat, identifying a good gelato shop is critical to survival.

When I had the first lick of my salty caramel and nocciola aka hazelnut cone, I certainly felt like angels were calling my name. It didn’t hurt that they claim to hand-churn this goodness out of local, natural ingredients.

Runner-up favorite for us was Puro Gelato.

🚫…but maybe DON’T fall in a tourist trap and try a trdelníks

BEWARE: there is a tourist trap called trdelníks aka a “chimney cake” and this new trend where they fill them with soft-serve ice cream.

Everyone has lost their minds over it. While it’s super IG-friendly, don’t be fooled into thinking it’s a traditional Czech dessert. It’s a fairly new addition (<20 years) to Czech gastronomy, but given that it’s sweet, pretty, and different enough from your standard donuts and pastries to be interesting, this is a dessert that’s here to stay.

However to add insult to injury, they don’t even taste good. Given that A) I like desserts and B) I am basic and like pretty things, I tried not ONE, but TWO. And on both occasions, I can confirm, this is a tourist trap. Pretty to look at, kind of dry. Disappointing, really.

[LEFT] me & array of traditional Czech desserts from Cafe Savoy [MIDDLE] my ice cream & best friend being basic at Angelato [RIGHT] 1st time trying trdelnik (not pictured: me throwing it away)

4. Drinks: beer gardens, wine bars, clubbing

☑ Enjoy views of the old town Prague from Letna Beer Garden

As you know, I’ve never been a big fan of beer. But when the most talked about place in Prague is a beer garden, you better bet your keg I’ll be there.

This was our only destination north of the river, and wow even the view alone was worth it. After a (mildly tiring) winding hike up a hill, we were rewarded with a gorgeous panorama view of the old town below. And my friend was rewarded with a beer. So cheers to that.

☑ Learn about Czech wines at Vinograf Míšeňská

Have you heard of any famous Czech wines or wineries? No? Neither had I.

However this was one of my favorite stops during my time in Prague because the reason why we don’t get to taste (or hear) about Czech wines is because for the most part, their wine isn’t exported out of the country.

Not surprising since they only grow 20,000 hectares of vines. In comparison, France grows more than 800,000 hectares… that’s 4,000% more than Czech Republic. And in Czech, the wine consumption per capita is nearly 23 liters per year. So it’s no wonder they don’t have the wine or time to ship it out here to the states.

So what wine varietal is the Czech Republic known for? Due to the continental climate in Marovia (the largest wine region in the country), the majority of grape varietals that do well are white grapes (and their principal varietal is Welschriesling) although that’s not to say you shouldn’t have them recommend a few to you.

You might learn a thing or two, or at the very least drink a glass or two, like I did.

☑ Watch the panoramic sunset over Prague Castle from Riegrovy Sady hill

Do as the locals do and just chill.

In addition to the grassy knoll where people watch the sun sett over Prague Castle, there’s actually also a beer garden nearby. But we opted to grab a bottle from a local store and hike up to the top of the hill to enjoy the sunset (fantastic view).

Peaceful, tranquil, allegro.

☑ Visit a historic cellar bar (or two) and grab a drink (or two)

Due to the aggressive flooding Prague is prone to, much of the city was actually raised by a few meters in the 10th century.

And this turned many of the originally ground-level rooms into makeshift interconnected cellars. The cavern-like rooms are actually quite cozy and such fun exploring (because each wine cellar / room within has its own personality)

The two we visited were U Sudu and Vzorkovna. U Sudu felt pretty hip, and a good time overall. Vzorkovna was even more hip, issuing wristbands at the door that we had to preload minimum Czech Koruna to use once inside. Interesting concept, and a fun night overall (and there’s a resident dog I might add…) Great way to to socialize with locals and tourists alike.

☑ Dance the night away at Karlovy Lazne night club

This club is nuts. It’s 5 floors, making it the biggest night club in central Europe. And every floor has a different DJ spinning different tunes: mainstream, EDM, oldies, hip hop, and mellow tunes.

You know those nights where you and your friends go out, but you keep trying to go to different places because one of your girl friends will inadvertently want a different scene? Well that’s not a problem here. And that’s also probably why it’s crowded with both locals and tourists alike.

It’s situated right on the water, just East of the Charles Bridge. So the view at night is beautiful, as is the sunrise after you’ve dance the night away (yes, I can confirm that they’re open until 5 AM)

[LEFT] Letna Beer Garden [MIDDLE] learning about Welschriesling (and some local reds) at Vinograf Míšeňská [RIGHT] One of the rooms in Vzorkovna

Instagram in a cellar bar for my fellow basics ✌

--

--

Deanna Cheng
Art of Basic

Full-time healthcare strategy consultant based in SF. Dedicated to creating memories & documenting travel adventures while offline.