A Naked Jesus
Our journey back 1500 years into antiquity began on the early train from Varenna, Italy. We left Lake Como behind on a crowded commuter train to Milan. Our final destination, Ravenna, Italy was the last capitol of the Western Roman Empire. During the 400's and 500’s AD Ravenna was ablaze. Today spectacular churches with incredible mosaics remain from that age.
Arriving in Ravenna we found our way to a rented apartment and began exploring. As always our first stop is Tourist Information, which we found with some friendly help. Being near to the old city gate, the entrance to the historic area, we were close to the mosaic sites.
Our mosaic discovery mission began at Basilica Vitali. It was breath-taking. The expanse of the mosaic, the detail: trillions bits of glass, marble and other stones illustrating the Biblical Stories from Moses to Melchizedek, from Noah to Abraham, then on to Jesus and the Apostles. It was mind-boggling. Who did these works of art? How could they? Did they plant themselves in the ceilings?
As we wandered in the sanctuary we came upon a large “ Wishing well.” My jaw dropped; this is not a “ Wishing Well” but an ancient baptistry. Here had been a group of believers who practiced down-in-the-water baptism.
We continued on to other sites all dazzling with mosaic, ancient relics, tombs, sarcophagus of emperors; all were incredible works of art. Our journey of discovery took us to the Battistero Degliariani and the ruins of what had been the Bishop’s Palace for the Arian Church. An Arian Church? That was news to me.
We went in the Battistero. There was an ancient deep water baptistry and above an incredible mosaic featuring a Naked Jesus being baptized. A Naked Jesus? I had never seen Jesus naked! Why would Jesus be naked?
Our discovered adventure had become perplexing. The incredible buildings, magical and mystical mosaic must reflect the beliefs of an Arian Christian group who1500 years ago left an enormous treasure in Ravenna.
Clearly the Arian Christians practiced deep water baptism, a faith without statuary or sculptures, and the mosaic personalities all were open faced without head coverings. Curiously there were spectacular churches but no ancient palaces, homes, only other ruins.
We continue on through the Basilica Evangelista which was rebuilt after being Allied bombed in WWII. This massive church before the bombing had its own mosaic masterpieces.
Onward to another shocking discovery: the Battistero Arian, the remnant of a destroyed Arian church. Here too another large immersion baptistry and above an incredible mosaic circling a Naked Jesus. Clearly the Arian Christians were making a theological statement of their beliefs including water baptism, and Man naked before God.
Onward through spectacular chambers and ancient treasures. We passed Dante’s tomb on the way and thought of Hell. We were walking to Teodorico/Theodoric’s tomb. Passing fields of poppies, through an ancient fortress, and across the railroad tracks we came to the tomb. Who was he?
The tomb is a solitary stone structure in a memorial park set aside and alone. Wondering about Teodorico, I bought a booklet about his life. He was an Arian King who brought peace and prosperity to Ravenna during the age of the barbarian invasions. He built his tomb, which he needed abruptly after being poisoned in 526. His body was in the tomb briefly before disappearing and the tomb defaced. Not having seen any buildings fit for a king I asked where was his palace? We were directed to some ruins not far away.
I am seeing a pattern. It appeared that the King, the Arians and the mosaic period had an abrupt ending 1500 years ago. Furthermore, the Arian Church at that time was designated a “Cult”.
Connected to the ruins that were Teodorico’s Palace is the magnificent Basilca Apollinare Nuvovo which he built. It is a simple unadorned rectangular interior except for the mosaic. Two enormous mosaics rise to the ceiling. On one side of the sanctuary is a procession of godly men. Facing them across the room is an equally impressive procession of godly women. No head coverings, open faced godly women. That was striking: 1500 years ago a gender equal, open society in mosaic.
It appears that the Arian society was a society of equals. Perhaps women were among the mosaic artists. Their church practiced deep water baptism (probably the time of conversion). They presented Jesus and mankind as being naked before God. They built a simple church without statuary illustrating the faith with mosaic.
Backtracking to our apartment we passed Basilica Francesco, a Catholic Church. It was built on the ruins of a destroyed earlier church. Here is where Dante was memorialized. Startlingly below the altar is an enormous fish pond/wishing well being described as an ancient crypt. An enormous water baptistry was more likely.
Outside Ravenna, Basilica Apollinaire remains, once part of a now destroyed religious complex. The Basilica was looted and much of the building material re-purposed to build another church. Fortunately this church building, which is considered one of the finest examples of an early Christian church building, survived.
What happened to end the mosaic age is coming into focus. For many reasons in the 300 and 400’s AD the Western Roman World was in crisis. Society was collapsing; law and order were breaking down. Parts of the Western World had been over run by outside forces, the Barbarians.
In contrast the Eastern Roman Empire, Byzantium — ruled from Constantinople — was prospering, surviving another 1000 years. According to the booklet authored by Stefania Salti and Renataa Venturini which I purchased at Teodorico’s Tomb, the Emperor in Constantinople recruited young Teodorico to subdue the Barbarians, save Ravenna and become king.
Teodorico was the captured son of the Ostrogoth’s King Amalo. He was held in Constantinople as insurance that the Ostrogoths, living in what is now Hungary, would live up to their treaty agreements.
Fearless Teodorico crossed the Alps bringing thousands of Arian Ostrogoths into Italy. They prevailed over the Barbarians. With Teodorico as King, prosperity returned to Ravenna. The Arian Christians thrived, building great churches in what was attempt to have an open tolerant society.
However, there were basic theological differences and competition between the Arians and the Roman Catholic Church. The Arians’ ‘simple faith’ did not include statuary in their worship. They practiced deep water baptism (probably being the point of conversion) and gender equality. Perhaps most importantly they saw an open relationship between God and Man.
In contrast the Roman Catholic Church’s theology was different regarding baptism, statuary in worship, as well the relationships between men, women and God. There were troubles and friction between the groups. Politics became involved, special interests and conflict over church property.
Ultimately Teodorico stood with his Arian people. He was poisoned that night in 526. The Roman Catholic Church then declared the Arian Church to be a “Cult” and the killing began. Death to the nonbelievers! Teodorico’s death and the following Ravenna Conflagration reverberated across Europe. Christians killing Christians, and The Dark Ages descended. Though the Arian Church and its believers were snuffed out, their devotion and beliefs remain in their mosaic.
As one studies history there are often myths of distant times and long ago places that no longer exist. There was the story of Atlantis a lost kingdom and continent,or perhaps the story of Camelot and King Arthur. Their time and place are difficult to prove but may be rooted in history. Perhaps the real King Arthur was King Teodorico and the real Camelot, Ravenna. As with Camelot the fairy tale ended and all was swept away.
