Emma Trask Of The Chrysalis Lab On Why They Are Embracing Slow Fashion and Renewable Consumption
An Interview With Monica Sanders
Community — surround yourself and support like-minded sustainable designers and artisans, and set up shop in a community that cares about the environment, isn’t so easily influenced by trends and will therefore be more open to slow fashion. For me this place was Malibu.
As ‘slow fashion’ grows in popularity, more fashion companies are jumping on the bandwagon. Renewable consumption has been gaining popularity for a while, as people recognize its importance, and many fashion companies want to be a part of this change. In this interview series, we are talking to business leaders in the fashion industry to discuss why they are embracing slow fashion and renewable consumption. As a part of this series, I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Emma Trask.
Emma Trask, the founder of The Chrysalis Lab, began her career as a freelance fashion stylist in New York City before making a strategic move to Los Angeles when the rise of celebrity influence in fashion took off. Thanks to her strong fashion expertise paired with her creative talent, Emma became renowned for her editorial styling work with A-list celebrities such as Scarlett Johansson, Cameron Diaz, Kiera Knightly, Beyonce, Brad Pitt, Jared Leto, Tom Cruise and Carrie Underwood among others, accumulating an impressive portfolio of celebrity fashion as well as a Hollywood Style award in 2009 for her costume designs for The CW Network’s relaunch of the hit series Melrose Place. In 2020, amidst the global pause caused by the pandemic, Emma underwent a profound reassessment of her role within the fashion industry. This introspective period spurred a transformative shift in her perspective and beliefs, ultimately leading her to establish The Chrysalis Lab, a unique art studio-meets-retail space that strives to offer limited edition designs and personalized collaborations, catering to eco-conscious individuals who yearn for groundbreaking and exclusive pieces that transcend mainstream fashion trends, all while honoring the environment.
Thank you so much for doing this with us! Before we dig in, our readers would like to get to know you a bit more. Can you tell us a bit about your childhood “backstory”?
I grew up in a small beach town in New Zealand riding ponies and competing at local horse shows which my father would lovingly take me to. I remember spending a lot of hours in the “styling” of both my pony and myself in preparation for these shows often winning the Groomed and Turned out competition as a result. I juggled riding ponies (and school of course) with competing in dance competitions with my sister which our Mother would lovingly take us to. Tbh I have limited recollection of the actual dance routines or even the songs they were to but I do remember clearly all the details of every costume.
Also as a young child I apparently played “dress up” a lot changing my outfits as many times a day as possible. As a teenager I started thrifting and upcycling my vintage finds with the help of my Mothers best friend who was a fine artist and very talented sewer. This passion for upcycling vintage was prob born from the desire to have more “creative” clothing than what was available to me in my small town. No online shopping back then!
Can you tell us the story about what led you to this particular career path?
I studied Marketing and Management at Victoria University of Wellington and landed a Marketing Communications Internship at Hewlett-Packard in Auckland. Within a month, I took over the role of Marketing Comms Manager. I excelled at event marketing and sponsorships. Later, I joined Telecom, New Zealand’s largest corporation, to lead their Event Marketing Division. After gaining experience, I became a freelance Event Marketing consultant for clients like Television NZ, Saatchi and Saatchi, and BP Oil. In 1997, I moved to NYC and continued my Event Marketing career while also providing personal styling services on the side. I was fortunate to connect with high-profile fashion stylists who hired me to set up an office and assist them. Eventually, I ventured out on my own and moved to LA, capitalizing on the celebrity styling boom. For over 20 years, I worked on advertising campaigns, celebrity editorial and red carpet styling, music videos, tours, live shows, and TV costume designing. Despite a desire to launch my own brand, I was discouraged by the mass production approach in the US. However, during the global pandemic, awareness grew regarding the environmental impact of the fashion industry. This motivated me to launch The Chrysalis Lab, an upcycled clothing brand that involves consumers in the upcycling process.
Can you share the most interesting story that happened to you since you began your career?
Throughout my styling career, I’ve had many fascinating experiences, some of which I can’t share due to confidentiality. However, one realization that struck me recently while recounting my backstory in interviews is the connection between my teenage years in New Zealand and the TV show “Melrose Place,” which revolved around life in LA. Interestingly, I never consciously planned to move to the US, but fate had other plans. Shortly after arriving in LA, I found myself costume designing for the CW Network’s reboot of “Melrose Place,” which featured most of the original cast, and even won an award for it. While I don’t have much time for TV these days, when I do watch, I choose my shows very intentionally!
You are a successful business leader. Which three character traits do you think were most instrumental to your success? Can you please share a story or example for each?
Drive: I’ve always been willing to put in the hard work for any role or project I take on. The key is to invest time and effort not just for clients or bosses, but for your own satisfaction. Drive means striving to create something you’re proud to put your name on, regardless of the scale or significance. In fact, a lot of the hard work I’ve put in the early days of my styling career working on fashion editorials was just for “credit” no actual financial reward. I think this is how I actually learnt the importance of creating something I was proud to put my name on and pretty soon I just started applying it to everything I did. The financial reward, who the client is, the size of the project all become irrelevant and it’s just about doing the absolute best you can do. And I bring this attribute to my business when working with TCL customers on Custom Colab projects.
Passion: Doing what you love and loving what you do is crucial. When you’re truly passionate about something, it doesn’t feel like “work” — it flows naturally. For me, creating is at the heart of my styling career and my brand. I feel immensely grateful to pursue my passion daily and share the creative process with clients, allowing them to have a sense of ownership over their personal style. When clients tell me how many compliments, they got wearing a unique custom piece we collaborated on it always makes me happy and I don’t think this kind of reward I get for the work I do will ever get old.
Intuition: Trusting your intuition is what sets you apart. When ideas come to me and they “feel” right, I act on them without hesitation. Intuition plays a vital role in shaping my unique approach and decision-making process.
Trusting intuition has been crucial in my career as a stylist. Moving to LA at the right time, relying on intuition during fittings and shoots, and starting a fashion brand during a global pandemic were all decisions guided by my instincts. In my brand, I continue to trust my intuition, whether it’s selecting the perfect vintage piece for upcycling or determining the best way to rework a garment for a customer.
What do you think makes your company stand out? Can you share a story?
The Chrysalis Lab is more than just a fashion brand; it represents a journey of transformation on multiple levels. Our goal is to revolutionize the way people consume fashion and experience retail. How do we achieve this? By giving garments new life through our unique approach to upcycling. At the core of our brand is the art of knitting. Knitting holds a special place in our hearts, as it embodies the ultimate handcrafted, made-with-love vibe that we strive to infuse into every garment. Growing up in New Zealand, I saw tremendous potential in knitting that had yet to be fully explored. It became the perfect medium for us to bring a fresh perspective to fashion transformation. But our transformation doesn’t stop with the garments themselves. We believe in involving our customers in the upcycling process. Through our Custom CoLab service, we encourage individuals to shop in their closets before turning to retail. Bring us your vintage pieces, and we will rework and “Chrysalize” them into something truly unique and personal. It’s a collaborative effort that empowers our customers to become part of the creative journey, giving their clothing a renewed sense of purpose and meaning. In our pursuit to redefine retail, we have created a flagship Upcycle Atelier in Malibu that defies traditional expectations. It’s more than just a store; it’s an immersive experience. Step inside, and you’ll find yourself in a space that blends the elements of an art gallery and a creative studio. It’s a place where people are drawn to linger, taking in the fusion of fashion and art that surrounds them. As a stylist, I grew tired of the formulaic and predictable nature of the fashion retail industry. I craved something more, something that challenged the norms and celebrated creativity. The Chrysalis Lab was born out of that desire, to bring a fresh perspective to the fashion landscape and offer an experience that is as unique as the garments we create.
Do you have a favorite “Life Lesson Quote”? Can you share a story of how that was relevant to you in your life?
“Thoughts create reality”. Sometimes you have to take a step back and from what you are doing in order to really make changes in your life. If you don’t your thoughts are consumed with the status quo and it’s hard to imagine the change let alone make it. For me I had been in the fashion industry for a long time, and it took it coming to a halt and taking a step back from it all during the pandemic for me to realize it was possible for it to be different. I think a lot of people thought and experienced this phenomenon thus making this change a reality with the emergence of more and more sustainable and slow fashion.
Who is your fashion hero or heroine? Why?
Alexander McQueen. He is such an icon in the Fashion World and more than a designer he was a true artist. He was also the much-needed disruptor of his day constantly challenging the norms in the fashion industry. For me personally his legacy makes me realize anything is possible. Especially change. I think slow fashion movement much like McQueen is the ultimate and much needed disruptor in the fashion industry today.
Why did you decide to create and use a sustainable business model for your fashion brand?
I decided to create and use a sustainable business model for my fashion brand due to several reasons. Firstly, my love for vintage clothing and handcrafted artisan pieces instilled in me a deep appreciation for their unique energy and the creativity they offer when styling. I believe these qualities are often lost in mass-produced items, which lack the personal touch of the artisans who crafted them. Throughout my 20 years of experience as a stylist in the fashion industry, I witnessed the relentless cycle of production and the subsequent loss of individuality. However, working with designer samples, which circulate among various celebrities, influencers, and models, allowed me to maintain a connection to the uniqueness and soulfulness of fashion. Seeing these samples being mass-produced and losing their essence was always disheartening. Although I always aspired to start my own brand, I hesitated because I did not want to contribute to the environmentally and socially detrimental effects of the fashion industry’s production churn. However, during the reflective period of the pandemic, I realized that I could think outside the box and create a brand that deviated from the norms of traditional fashion. Drawing on my innate appreciation for vintage and my expertise in reworking existing garments, I recognized the opportunity to establish a brand focused solely on upcycling. I wanted to create something unique and impactful, not only by transforming garments but also by educating and involving consumers in the process. By doing so, I aim to foster a greater understanding and participation in the slow fashion movement, with the hope that it will eventually become the norm, replacing the fast fashion culture we currently live in.
What are three things we should all know about “slow fashion”?
Slow fashion, as beautifully summarized by the late British designer Vivienne Westwood, encompasses three important principles that we should all be aware of. Her words, “buy less, choose well, make it last,” resonate deeply within the realm of slow fashion. The first principle is to buy less. Slow fashion challenges the prevailing culture of overconsumption by advocating for a shift towards mindful purchasing habits. It encourages us to break free from the constant desire for new clothes and instead focus on acquiring fewer items, but ones that truly align with our values and personal style. Choosing well is another pillar of slow fashion. It urges us to prioritize quality over quantity when making clothing decisions. Rather than succumbing to the allure of fast fashion and its disposable nature, slow fashion prompts us to consider the craftsmanship, materials, and ethical aspects of the garments we buy. By understanding how and where our clothes are made, we can support brands that align with our values and contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry. The final tenet of slow fashion is to make it last. This principle emphasizes the importance of prolonging the lifespan of our clothing. Instead of discarding items prematurely, slow fashion encourages us to repair, alter, and reimagine them. This approach not only reduces waste but also allows us to develop a deeper connection with our garments, infusing them with new life and meaning. The Chrysalis Lab is built on these principles, offering resources and services to help consumers repair and rework their existing garments. By breathing new life into old pieces, we contribute to the sustainability and longevity of our wardrobes. Slow fashion invites us to embrace a more conscious and mindful approach to fashion, one that values quality, craftsmanship, and the preservation of our planet’s resources.
Can you please explain how it can be fashionable to buy less, wait a little longer, or even repair clothing?
Choosing to buy less, wait longer, and repair clothing may seem unconventional in today’s fast-paced fashion world. However, these practices offer unique benefits and contribute to a more sustainable and individualistic fashion experience. By buying less, you become more thoughtful in your fashion choices. Instead of impulse purchases and following fleeting trends, you curate a wardrobe that truly reflects your personal style. Studies show that many people buy items they hardly wear, leading to excessive consumption and waste. Buying less breaks this cycle, allowing for a more intentional and sustainable fashion journey. When you find a perfectly fitting garment, it becomes invaluable. Rather than discarding it at the first sign of wear or damage, repairing and reworking it preserves its unique qualities. This saves time and effort spent searching for replacements and showcases your creativity by redesigning the item to suit your evolving style. Furthermore, the act of reworking and creatively repairing garments is inherently fashionable. It adds a sense of individuality and uniqueness to your clothing. Having one-of-a-kind pieces sets you apart from the crowd in a world dominated by mass-produced fashion. It allows you to express your personality and embrace an original fashion identity. By extending the lifespan of garments through reworking and repairing, you cultivate fashion individuality and exclusivity. Ultimately, this approach represents true fashion-forward thinking, harmoniously combining sustainability and style.
Thank you for all that. Here is the main question of our interview. What are your “5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Slow Fashion Brand”.
1 . Creativity -Creativity plays a vital role in not only defying traditional fashion business models but also in crafting a distinct aesthetic that captures customers’ attention and competes with the constant influx of new fashion trends. When running a business, especially one that challenges the norms of the industry, creativity is essential. It involves thinking outside the box, innovating new approaches, and embracing unconventional strategies. By defying the traditional fashion business model, you can carve a unique path that sets your brand apart from the rest. This requires the courage to go against the norm and the creativity to develop alternative solutions that resonate with your target audience.
2 . Community — surround yourself and support like-minded sustainable designers and artisans, and set up shop in a community that cares about the environment, isn’t so easily influenced by trends and will therefore be more open to slow fashion. For me this place was Malibu.
3 . Patience is a key virtue in the world of Slow Fashion. While the fashion industry has long prioritized rapid scaling and immediate results, Slow Fashion takes a different approach. It recognizes that change takes time and emphasizes the importance of embracing a more sustainable and mindful fashion journey. If you find yourself impatiently seeking ways to rapidly scale your brand, it’s essential to refocus your perspective. Slow Fashion encourages a shift away from the relentless pursuit of quick growth and instead emphasizes the value of thoughtful, sustainable practices. By embracing patience and committing to the principles of Slow Fashion, you can contribute to the transformation of the fashion industry and help create a more sustainable and conscientious future.
4 . Integrity — Integrity is at the core of building a brand that resonates with people on a deeper level. It’s about telling the stories of individuals who genuinely support your brand because they believe in its mission and genuinely love the products, rather than merely being paid to wear them. When you prioritize integrity, you create a community of loyal customers and brand ambassadors who authentically connect with your vision and values. By fostering these genuine connections and sharing the stories of those who genuinely support your brand, you establish a foundation of trust and authenticity that sets you apart in the fashion industry.
5 . Client Relations — Each interaction with our clients is an opportunity to inspire a shift in their fashion consumption habits. We strive to provide the best experience possible, recognizing that our customers are not simply purchasing a product, but embracing a mindset of transformation.
You are a person of great influence. If you could start a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger. :-)
I think being at the forefront of the slow fashion movement and changing the way people consume fashion is using my influence to bring a lot of good to people and the environment. I’m focussed on this goal for now but truly believe if we can achieve change in the fashion industry it will have a chain reaction and potentially encourage other industries to change also.
How can our readers further follow your work online?
https://thechrysalislab.com and on our Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/thechrysalislab/
This was very inspiring. Thank you so much for joining us!
About the Interviewer: Monica Sanders JD, LL.M, is the founder of “The Undivide Project”, an organization dedicated to creating climate resilience in underserved communities using good tech and the power of the Internet. She holds faculty roles at the Georgetown University Law Center and the Tulane University Disaster Resilience Leadership Academy. Professor Sanders also serves on several UN agency working groups. As an attorney, Monica has held senior roles in all three branches of government, private industry, and nonprofits. In her previous life, she was a journalist for seven years and the recipient of several awards, including an Emmy. Now the New Orleans native spends her time in solidarity with and championing change for those on the frontlines of climate change and digital divestment. Learn more about how to join her at: www.theundivideproject.org.
