James Ash Of Hôtel Swexan: 5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Became a Chef

An Interview With Martita Mestey

Believe in Yourself and Know Your Value: Confidence in your abilities is essential. Believing in yourself can be the key to pushing through challenging moments and seizing your potential.

As a part of our series about the lessons from influential ‘TasteMakers’, I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing James Ash.

Chef James Ash, a seasoned figure in luxury hospitality, directs culinary innovation as Executive Chef of Hôtel Swexan within Harwood Hospitality, overseeing diverse concepts and setting new standards for hospitality excellence. With a career spanning renowned venues from Laguna Beach to Las Vegas to Boston, Ash brings a wealth of expertise to Dallas, where he champions local talent and reshapes the city’s culinary landscape with his distinctive vision and dedication.

Thank you so much for doing this with us! Our readers would love to ‘get to know’ you a bit. Can you share with our readers a story about what inspired you to become a restauranteur or chef?

Growing up in Southern California, I spent a lot of time skateboarding which led to a deep interest in art, especially street art and graffiti. My first job in the culinary world was as a dishwasher at the Ritz Carlton in Laguna Beach. It was there that I discovered the creative side of cooking, which intrigued me. These chefs were turning food into art and I had never seen anything like it. Before that, I had never been to a nice restaurant or knew what fine dining was. I was hooked immediately and I’ll be showing my age with this next part but… I would rush home to watch this old-school show called “Great Chefs” on the Discovery Channel and “The Kitchen Sessions” with Charlie Trotter on PBS. I was obsessed with cooking and becoming a chef. My mentor at the time encouraged me to travel and gain experience in other restaurants, and that’s how I ended up in Aspen, Colo. This move was a pivotal moment in my career, as it allowed me to truly dive into the culinary arts and grow as a chef.

Do you have a specific type of food that you focus on? What was it that first drew you to cooking that type of food? Can you share a story about that with us?

I oversee a variety of culinary concepts, so I stay well-versed in multiple cuisines and cultures. However, my true love lies in French food, and many of my dishes are based on the fundamentals of French cuisine. My journey into this style of cooking began with the first chef I worked for, who was French. Later, I had the opportunity to work at a Michelin-starred French restaurant, which pushed my cooking skills to the next level.

I was drawn to French culture, especially the discipline they bring to the kitchen. The chef I worked for was quite an eccentric character, and he loved to keep the French stovetop extra hot. He would even remove the regulators so that the center would glow red! We had four of these stoves on the line, and the thermometer in my chef coat pocket would read a steady 125 degrees. It was so hot that we used to take bets on whether the new interns or stagiaires would pass out from the heat. The average pass-out rate was about 3 out of 10, and I must admit, I made a bit of secondary income from those bets! It was an intense environment, but it taught me a lot about resilience and precision in cooking.

Can you share the funniest or most interesting story that has happened to you since you became a chef? What was the lesson or take away you took out of that story?

After spending 15 years in Las Vegas, I witnessed some wild and unforgettable moments. Las Vegas is a place where anything can happen, and it’s never short of surprises or unusual requests. The lesson I took away from my time there was to always expect and be prepared for the unexpected. Las Vegas taught me that no matter how unusual or outlandish a request might seem, there’s always a way to make it happen. It’s all part of the fun and excitement of being a chef in such a dynamic and vibrant city. While I was working at the Palms Hotel (back in its big party day) a few of the butlers and I became friendly with one of the regular VIPs. He invited us to his birthday party the Kingpin Suite which boasts 5,000 square feet complete with a full bowling alley inside. We showed up and it was 25 guys, 50 “models” a DJ, and a whole spectacle. We were all having a blast, about 30 minutes later a bellman rolled into the room with 20 cases of Dom Perignon on the cart, people were spraying it everywhere, the tub was being filled and that’s the night we invented the DOM BOMB — a pint glass with Dom Perignon that you drop a shot glass full of Red Bull in it and chug the whole thing. Shout out to John H., Josh P., and Jason L., the co-inventors of that abomination.

Can you tell us a story about the hard times that you faced when you first started your journey? How did you overcome this obstacle?

I was fortunate to rise quickly in my career, driven by hard work and dedication. I was always the first one in and the last one to leave, often working on my days off and even for free, doing everything I could to advance. About eight years into my career, I landed an amazing job at one of the coolest hotels in Las Vegas. At 25 years old, I was making great money, but after a few years, I found myself bored and too comfortable.

Then, an incredible opportunity came my way: a renowned Chef invited me to join his team at a Michelin-star restaurant. It was a dream come true! However, there was a catch — it paid $35,000 less than my current job. Despite the significant pay cut, I decided to take the chance, recognizing the long-term benefits. I made a plan, got rid of my leased car, took on roommates, and pinched pennies for three years to make it work.

That decision paid off immensely. The experience I gained and the prestige of having that restaurant on my resume led to a huge leap forward in my career, not only in terms of salary but also in the caliber of Chefs I worked with and the standards I upheld. The key takeaway is that sometimes you have to take a step back to move forward. Chasing small, incremental raises by switching jobs frequently can hinder long-term progress. It’s essential to plan your future, build a solid resume, know your value, and never burn bridges. The hospitality industry is smaller than you might think.

In your experience, what is the key to creating a dish that customers are crazy about?

The key to creating a dish that guests love is not to overcomplicate it. As chefs, we often strive to push our boundaries and create complex dishes. However, in doing so, we can sometimes lose sight of the guest’s perspective and end up with a dish that, while appreciated by a few chef friends, doesn’t resonate with the broader audience.

I focus on keeping dishes approachable and ensuring that the presentation is beautiful and inviting. It’s important to include elements that excite guests, like a fun texture or an unexpected flavor twist. These surprises are often what guests remember and talk about the next day. By balancing creativity with accessibility, we can create dishes that not only showcase our skills but also genuinely delight our guests.

Personally, what is the ‘perfect meal for you’?

I’ve had many perfect and delicious meals at great restaurants and hotels around the world, but for me, nothing beats the simple pleasure of coming home late from work, with everyone asleep, the phone off, and the dogs lounging on the couch. Sitting there watching TV and enjoying a bowl of cereal is pure comfort. It’s those quiet, uncomplicated moments that remind me that life is good — and I will never fully grow up.

Where does your inspiration for creating come from? Is there something that you turn to for a daily creativity boost?

My inspiration comes from my team and the people I surround myself with. Many of my friends are in creative fields — chefs, tattoo artists, custom car builders, graffiti artists, and clothing designers. When creating menus, I strongly believe in collaboration. Discussing new dishes with the team often brings out great ideas, whether it’s a tweak to the components, presentation, or flavor profile. When that doesn’t work, I open Instagram and steal ideas. Just kidding about the stealing part, but it does get the creative juices flowing.

The creative energy from my surroundings and the collaborative process with my team are my primary sources of daily creativity.

Are you working on any new or exciting projects now? What impact do you think this will have?

I’ve just completed revamping every menu across all our restaurants at Hôtel Swexan. My focus now is on creating unique experiences and developing some exciting pop-up menus for our restaurants. Additionally, we’re establishing creative standards and processes for a new hotel that is still in its early stages.

Our goal is always to strive for perfection, and with the Michelin Guide now in Texas, we’re hopeful that one of our restaurants will receive recognition. These projects are designed to elevate our offerings and make a significant impact on both our guests’ experiences and our standing in the culinary community.

What advice would you give to other chefs or restaurateurs to thrive and avoid burnout?

In our industry, finding work-life balance is a constant challenge. Burnout is often inevitable; one day you’re fine, and the next you are punching a box of romaine lettuce in the walk-in because someone scorched three gallons of cheese sauce. It’s important to recognize that burnout will happen, but the key is how you handle and recover from it.

Taking that extra day off when needed can make a huge difference. It’s often just enough time to recharge before you start to miss the action. I thrive on the energy of the kitchen and the excitement of service. Even though I have an amazing and dependable team that could manage if I worked fewer hours, I love being deeply involved — whether it’s creating a spontaneous amuse-bouche for a VIP guest or chatting with diners. That passion for the work can lead to long hours, but it’s what keeps me engaged and happy.

So my advice is to find a balance that works for you, take time off when needed, and remember that your love for what you do can be a great motivator and a source of fulfillment. Just be mindful of burnout and take steps to manage it when it arises.

What are your “5 Things I Wish Someone Told Me When I First Started as a Chef” and why?

1. Don’t Take Things Too Personally: In this industry, feedback can be intense, and not everyone will love everything you create. Someone is always going to have an opinion about what you are doing. Don’t focus on the one review of someone who didn’t like a dish, focus on the 25 others who loved it. It’s crucial to remember that opinions are subjective and not to let one negative comment overshadow the success.
2. Believe in Yourself and Know Your Value: Confidence in your abilities is essential. Believing in yourself can be the key to pushing through challenging moments and seizing your potential.
3. Be Ready to Work Your Ass Off: Success in this field doesn’t come overnight. I remember my early years working grueling hours with little recognition or financial reward. It took a decade of hard work, long hours, and sacrifices before I started seeing significant success and compensation. Patience and persistence are critical. The dedication and effort you put in early on will eventually pay off as you build your career.
4. No One Prepares You for the Cast of Characters You’ll Meet: The culinary world is filled with a diverse range of personalities. The people you meet will shape your journey in unexpected and valuable ways.
5. No One Ever Talks About the Business Side: When I started, I was focused on cooking and creativity, but soon I found myself dealing with finances, marketing, and management responsibilities. Over time, I learned to balance these responsibilities. Understanding the broader aspects of running a business is essential for long-term success, even if it wasn’t what you initially signed up for.

What’s the one dish people have to try if they visit your establishment?

You must try the HWD Beef Jerky at Stillwell’s, our signature steakhouse at Hôtel Swexan. This dish features our own Harwood Premium Beef, which is dry-aged for 40 days to achieve exceptional flavor and tenderness. At Harwood Hospitality, we’ve developed a unique beef program called HWD — Harwood Premium Beef, focusing on using the whole animal to ensure zero waste. We collaborate with local ranchers to produce an ultra-high-end product from the Akaushi bloodline breed of cattle. This special beef line is available exclusively at Harwood District restaurants and Hôtel Swexan. Our commitment to quality and sustainability is reflected in every bite, offering Dallas diners and visitors a truly exceptional experience from ranch to restaurant.

You are a person of enormous influence. If you could inspire a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger.

Not to sound selfish, but right now I believe the most impactful movement for the culinary world would be to reignite the passion and excitement of the hospitality industry while inspiring a new generation of chefs. With so many quick money-making opportunities available, it’s challenging to motivate young chefs to embrace the dedication and hard work required in this field. I would focus on highlighting the importance of work ethics, loyalty, and the joy that comes from working in kitchens. By emphasizing that a career in the culinary arts can be both fun and fulfilling, we can attract and nurture talented individuals who are genuinely passionate about their craft.… And I want to save all the dogs.

Thank you so much for these insights. This was very inspirational!