Jeannie Renné-Malone Of VF Corporation On Why They Are Embracing Slow Fashion and Renewable Consumption

An Interview With Monica Sanders

Taking a science-based approach to measure impact: True impact cannot be measured without data-backed impact targets and methodical tracking. With increasing stakeholder interest and emerging regulations requiring transparent ESG disclosures, we rely on accurate, complete data, and proven methodologies to measure our impact. In 2019, we set science-based targets aligned with the Paris Agreement that we measure and disclose progress towards annually to provide stakeholders confidence that we are delivering positive impacts.

As ‘slow fashion’ grows in popularity, more fashion companies are jumping on the bandwagon. Renewable consumption has been gaining popularity for a while, as people recognize its importance, and many fashion companies want to be a part of this change. In this interview series, we are talking to business leaders in the fashion industry to discuss why they are embracing slow fashion and renewable consumption. As a part of this series, I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Jeannie Renne-Malone.

Jeannie Renné-Malone leads global sustainability at VF Corporation, one of the world’s largest apparel and footwear family of brands including Vans®, The North Face®, Timberland®, and Dickies®, overseeing VF’s global sustainability strategy across its brands, operations, supply chain, materials, and products. Renné-Malone has extensive experience in the development and implementation of sustainability goals and strategies, stakeholder engagement, and tracking and reporting of sustainability/ESG results. Under her leadership, VF has integrated circular design, sustainable materials, and innovation across its portfolio of brands from farm to cradle, reducing energy, waste, carbon emissions, and water usage, encouraging regenerative farming practices, circularity initiatives, and embedding renewable energy and sustainability priorities across its operations and supply chain.

Thank you so much for doing this with us! Before we dig in, our readers would like to get to know you a bit more. Can you tell us a bit about your childhood “backstory”?

Thank you so much for having me! My childhood certainly helped to shape who I am today — a fierce advocate for sustainability with a practical approach to getting things done. My mom was a bilingual kindergarten teacher who inspired me daily. She demonstrated the importance of social responsibility. I remember as a young girl when she successfully petitioned to change local legislation on child workers and secured funding for bilingual education. She taught me that one voice has the power to inspire change, and I have applied this childhood lesson to my sustainability work throughout my career.

Can you tell us the story about what led you to this particular career path?

This goes back to my childhood as well when my father ingrained in me a passion for environmental stewardship at a very young age. As a world-renowned solar energy resource expert, he taught me the power of sustainable technology, collaboration, and policy to transform communities. We each play a role in creating positive change in the world — and watching my parents dedicate their careers to making their communities and the world better brought me to where I am today.

I’ve worn a few hats over the years and have worked across various industries — from renewable energy and logistics to apparel and footwear. What each of these roles has in common is that they focus on both local and global impact. With sustainability, it’s critical to keep both of these elements in sight.

Can you share the most interesting story that happened to you since you began your career?

Early in my career, I had the opportunity to contribute to a wind energy assessment in Oaxaca, Mexico. At the time, laws did not permit renewable energy to be connected to the grid, and there were no clear benefits to those living in the community. Together with the leaders of ejidos, communal farming lands supported by the government, we worked to explore what the impact of renewable wind energy could be.

Over time, the laws were amended, and the work we did led to the first wind energy project in this part of the country. This career-defining moment helped me see the impact of effective collaboration between organizations, communities, and the government toward sustainable change.

You are a successful business leader. Which three character traits do you think were most instrumental to your success? Can you please share a story or example for each?

• Purpose-driven — I feel fortunate that my parents passed on their passion for giving back to the community and focusing on the intersection of people and the planet. This personal purpose has carried over into my professional career. I truly believe that one’s professional journey is most successful and rewarding when it is connected to purpose.
• Collaborative — We can move faster, be more innovative, and drive more progress in partnership with others. For example, VF took an early stance on supporting regenerative agriculture and in collaboration with Terra Genesis, developed the first-in-our-industry regeneratively-sourced natural rubber in Thailand. Our partnership with Terra Genesis resulted in collaborations with three of our largest brands and many partners on the ground, all focusing on empowering farmers to transition to regenerative agriculture.
• Encouraging — I am incredibly honored to be surrounded by such a talented, innovative, and passionate global team. Their expertise and diverse perspectives are the reason we are able to successfully advance progress toward our sustainability goals and explore innovative solutions that address complex environmental challenges. It is extremely important to listen to opinions, to continue to encourage each team member to innovate and ensure we all feel connected to our shared vision and purpose.

What do you think makes your company stand out? Can you share a story?

I think our comprehensive Sustainability & Responsibility strategy and vision make us stand out. Our focus on People, Planet, and Product has led to great initiatives such as the Terra Genesis partnership I previously mentioned. As one of the largest companies in the fashion industry, we recognized the role of agriculture in the materials supply chain and how we could leverage it to help drive change for the betterment of people and the planet.

Regenerative agriculture is not new; it has been practiced by indigenous people for centuries, using farming or ranching techniques that help promote biodiversity, enhance water cycles, improve soil health, and sequester carbon. Beyond the environmental impact, regenerative farming practices encourage biodiversity. Instead of relying on one seasonally dependent crop as their source of income, farmers can diversify their revenue streams by cultivating multiple crops, providing a more consistent flow of income throughout the year. Increasing the demand for regeneratively grown materials is not only improving carbon sequestration to address climate change, but it is also improving the livelihoods and communities where these materials are grown.

Do you have a favorite “Life Lesson Quote”? Can you share a story of how that was relevant to you in your life?

When I was young, my parents read many books to me, but the one that stands out most is The Lorax. In that book, the quote “Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It’s not,” always resonated with me. Progress can only happen if someone cares enough to take action and that everyone has the power to make a difference, no matter how small or insignificant they may feel at times. When I was charged with revamping VF’s sustainability strategy, I chose to call one of the projects “The Lorax” as a reminder to myself and my team to never stop caring about making a positive impact.

Who is your fashion hero or heroine? Why?

My fashion heroes are the consumers who care about a sustainable future and who make purchasing decisions based on their environmental and social impact. At VF, we think about sustainability and responsibility together — you cannot have one without the other. Conscious consumers push brands and companies in the right direction on both fronts. They contribute to a more sustainable future by purchasing items that not only decrease their carbon footprint but are also made responsibly. To me, those consumers are heroes for using their wallets and their voices to have a larger impact.

Why did you decide to create and use a sustainable business model for your fashion brand?

The apparel and footwear industry makes a sizable contribution to climate change, accounting for up to 8% of annual global carbon emissions, according to the United Nations Environment Programme. And, according to the World Resources Institute, 96% of a brand’s footprint is in its manufacturing supply chain. Incorporating sustainable and innovative materials and sourcing in the design and production process is critical to ensuring sustainability, long-term profitability, and performance for fashion brands.

I am proud to lead the effort to minimize the environmental impacts of our products across our entire business. In my role, I work closely with our brands and sourcing teams to understand the environmental impacts of our product. This has led to a shift away from virgin materials and a linear approach towards circularity. We prioritize responsibly sourced, recycled, or regenerative materials in our design of products from cradle to grave, while also exploring new circular business models such as take-back or recycling programs, repair and refurbishing services, and upcycling efforts.

What are three things we should all know about “slow fashion”?

Slow fashion advocates for a more thoughtful and conscious approach to fashion, focusing on quality, longevity, and ethical practices. At VF and our family of brands, this approach involves incorporating circularity where possible. Here are three things about slow fashion that help counter overconsumption and waste through circular design:

1. Durability: By investing in durable garments, brands extend the lifespan of their clothing and reduce resource consumption and waste. For example, Dickies® pants are made to last with tough, durable fabrics and blends that outlast pretty much everything else in your wardrobe.
2. Recyclability: Recyclability diverts clothing and footwear from landfills and reduces the demand for new resources. By incorporating recyclability into their products, brands can reduce waste, conserve resources, and create a more sustainable fashion industry that aligns with the principles of slow fashion. For example, Napapijri® combined breakthrough technology, cutting-edge design, and sustainability to create its first circular jacket, followed by a circular Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold series. Using just one material, ECONYL® regenerated nylon, the jackets can be recycled and recreated into new products indefinitely without sacrificing fabric quality.
3. Reuse: Designing products with the intention of disassembly means using components that can be easily separated and sorted for recycling or reuse, such as detachable buttons, zippers, or stitching techniques that facilitate dismantling. If this is prioritized at the design stage, these materials can be processed and transformed into new products at the end of their life cycle. For example, in 2022 The North Face® unveiled its first slate of circular design products incorporating single-fiber construction and trims. These items incorporate circularity with easier to dissemble parts that can be repurposed in new products.

Keeping the above in mind, we aspire to lead the transition to a circular economy and see circularity as materially contributing to the achievement of our 2030 Science-Based targets. Our brands seek to design products with materials that can be repurposed, repaired, or recycled. The goal is to extend and re-imagine the life cycle of our products by designing for maximum value and minimal environmental impact. We hope our industry-leading initiatives inspire others to embrace slow fashion.

Can you please explain how it can be fashionable to buy less, wait a little longer, or even repair clothing?

Just like history, fashion repeats itself approximately every 20 years. Trends come and go, and it’s only a matter of time before trends reappear on the runways and trickle down to daily fashion staples or the next ‘it’ item. Being fashionable involves giving a touch of life to apparel, footwear, or accessories no matter how new or used they may be. It’s about investing in key pieces made from quality materials. These pieces last longer, are less prone to wear and tear, prevent overbuying, and can even become vintage pieces to sell to thrift stores, wear again, or pass down to the next generation.

The North Face’s Renewed program is a great example of this. The program aims to reduce waste and promote circularity by refurbishing and reselling used or returned products to extend their lifespan and prevent them from ending up in landfills. These products, cleaned and inspected to meet quality standards, are often offered at a lower price compared to new items, making them more accessible to consumers while promoting a more sustainable shopping experience.

Thank you for all that. Here is the main question of our interview. What are your “5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Slow Fashion Brand”.

1. Linking financial transactions with sustainability KPIs: I have been fortunate to work closely with our tax and treasury teams on several sustainable finance transactions. In 2020, we issued the first green bond for the apparel and footwear industry. Within a year, we successfully allocated the nearly 500 million euro use of proceeds across eligible projects. As a result, we estimate that nearly 24 thousand metric tons of CO2 were avoided — 67% of which came from our use of sustainable materials. Additionally, the projects resulted in the sequestration of 28 thousand metric tons of carbon. With the success of the first issuance, we issued a second 500 million euro green bond earlier this year, demonstrating the value of linking sustainability KPIs to financial transactions while advancing our sustainability initiatives.

2. Taking a science-based approach to measure impact: True impact cannot be measured without data-backed impact targets and methodical tracking. With increasing stakeholder interest and emerging regulations requiring transparent ESG disclosures, we rely on accurate, complete data, and proven methodologies to measure our impact. In 2019, we set science-based targets aligned with the Paris Agreement that we measure and disclose progress towards annually to provide stakeholders confidence that we are delivering positive impacts.

3. Building advocacy integrated as a key part of long-standing impact: Advocacy and engagement with government officials are critical to our sustainability strategy. We collaborate with industry associations to provide input that informs emerging policies and regulations that promote social and environmental responsibility. By engaging with policymakers we can help drive innovation and systemic change. As a member of Ceres’ Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy (BICEP), VF joins Ceres’ annual LEAD on Climate advocacy day to promote smart climate policy with US policymakers.

4. Educating the consumer is a brand must: Educating consumers on the environmental impact of fast fashion helps them understand the harmful consequences of excessive consumption. When brands are transparent about their supply chains, sustainable materials, and certifications, consumers can make informed purchasing decisions. Additionally, by raising awareness around issues like textile waste, water pollution, and carbon emissions, consumers can understand their own impact and actively seek out sustainable alternatives. Our traceability maps provide consumers and other stakeholders with knowledge of the end-to-end supply chain for 100 iconic products — from material conversion to product distribution.

5. Collaboration and partnerships are crucial to advancement: We know we cannot do this alone. Industry collaboration is critical to successfully achieving goals, creating positive impacts, and taking meaningful action on climate change– the most complex challenge we face today. At the Global Fashion Summit this July, the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) in collaboration with VF, Deloitte, and with the support of the VF Foundation, launched the Circular Transition Indicators (CTI) Fashion Initiative. The CTI Fashion Initiative is a set of unified standards, metrics, data, and best practices, to scale circularity throughout the fashion and textile value chain. We need to scale up circularity, and the CTI Initiative is an opportunity to do that through an industry-wide standard for action.

You are a person of great influence. If you could start a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger. :-)

I think about every single piece of clothing in this world, and what happens to them when they are discarded. They sit in a landfill and release methane, a powerful greenhouse gas, into the atmosphere. I would like to see a true process to eliminate textile waste from landfills.Going back to my comments on circularity, I’d build a solution for every part of a product so that nothing ever has to go to a landfill.

How can our readers further follow your work online?

You can follow me on LinkedIn here. To learn more about VF’s commitment to the betterment of people and the planet check out the responsibility section of our website and our sustainability reports. But we are nothing without our brands — if you want to learn more about some of the great responsibly-sourced products that our brands offer and their work in regeneratively-sourced materials and circularity, check out our individual brand websites.

This was very meaningful, thank you so much. We wish you only continued success on your great work!

About the Interviewer: Monica Sanders JD, LL.M, is the founder of “The Undivide Project”, an organization dedicated to creating climate resilience in underserved communities using good tech and the power of the Internet. She holds faculty roles at the Georgetown University Law Center and the Tulane University Disaster Resilience Leadership Academy. Professor Sanders also serves on several UN agency working groups. As an attorney, Monica has held senior roles in all three branches of government, private industry, and nonprofits. In her previous life, she was a journalist for seven years and the recipient of several awards, including an Emmy. Now the New Orleans native spends her time in solidarity with and championing change for those on the frontlines of climate change and digital divestment. Learn more about how to join her at: www.theundivideproject.org.