Navigating Delhi | Tips for a Smooth Arrival into India’s Bustling Capital
You touch down in Delhi and are thrown into the chaotic beauty of this wonderful city. It’s not going to be a comfortable ride, but it sure won’t be forgettable. Here are a few tips to ensure you get through your first few hours safely in Delhi.
Note that there isn’t wifi available in the airport. Well, technically there is, but you can’t use it until you get a phone number for a One Time Password (OTP). You should download this list offline. Also download all the very important details such as where you are staying, your contacts’ information, and your passport/visa details just in case.
India Standard time is 5 hours and 30 minutes ahead of UTC
Yes, that’s right. You look at your watch and look up at the other clocks showing you the time. You’re off not only by a few hours but also by a half-hour. What gives? It’s called Indian Standard time and it has been this way since 1947.
Get Money Ahead of Time
You heard it on the news, but see its consequence with your own eyes. During an unscheduled broadcast on November 8, 2016, the government of India announced the demonetization of all 500 and 1000 notes as legal tender. The idea is the ones that don’t get returned are counterfeits. But it threw the country into even more chaos. ATMs in the airport don’t work reliably. There is a line going around the corner for the money changers. Fortunately, you exchanged cash ahead of time. Good for you. Tough for the rest of the country, especially those who are in danger of losing their entire life savings.
E-Tourist Visa
If you don’t have time to get a visa on your passport before you get to India, you can apply online and it should take less than 5 business days for them to approve your E-tourist status. But don’t expect it to be so easy when you land. You have to get in line and go through immigration along with everyone else who decided to go the e-tourist visa route. The lines are long and don’t move fast at all. Allow yourself an hour extra for this process.
Getting a SIM card in India
Make sure your phone is unlocked.
For most of the world, this isn’t a problem. For residents of the USA, it probably is. Before you leave on your trip, call your carrier and ask them to unlock your phone. Most of them will do it for free. There are services online that can do this as well. Just make sure you have an unlocked phone before you get on that plane.
Service provider options in the airport: Aircel & Vodaphone.
There are two available options for SIM cards: “Aircel” (not to be confused by Airtel) and “Vodaphone”. There are nice signs in the airport pointing to where these booths are.
There is a 3 hour waiting period for Vodaphone.
If you get a Vodaphone SIM card, it won’t be active until three hours later when a gut-relieving “Vodaphone IN” appears at the top of your smartphone. Before that it will say “No Service” and you find yourself worried that you got cheated.
The Vodaphone salesmen were generally inattentive and uncaring. They seem to be running the Limo/Car service stations next to the Vodaphone booth as well. You decide to ignore them at first and go to their competitor. But ultimately you have to pick vodaphone because…
Aircel has no waiting period and the guy who runs the booth is alone and seems much friendlier. But you need a contact in India. If you have an AirBnB your host may agree to be your contact. But your host doesn’t pick up the phone. Time is ticking and you don’t want to stick around the airport too much. The nice Aircel salesman sends you back to Vodaphone. There are 3 other foreigners in the same boat as you.
Say No to Taxis
The Delhi airport, much like most airports in many parts of the world, is full of swindlers and cheaters out to get a quick buck. You don’t want to deal with these people. There are better, more honest and more deserving people who can use your cash. Ignore them when they come to you and offer you a taxi service.
Car for Hire
In the same area you get a SIM card you can also hire a car. You pay for a voucher and then go to a guy in uniform who will guide you to your driver. Prices vary.
Uber
There is also another option. Uber works here. And it’s cheaper than regular taxis. But if you are boycotting the service, or you can’t go online yet because your SIM card isn’t activated, and you’re keen on going by car, you should get a car for hire.
Navigating the Delhi metro
You opt instead to take the famous/infamous Delhi metro. You take the ramp from the terminal down to the metro and are probably thrown in with a few hundred other people, mostly trying their best to get home from long and delirious flights. Be nice to them. Be nice to everyone. Because you’re nice too, right?
Security
At every metro station, the security guards will x-ray your bags. You must go through a metal detector and then get patted down as well. There are separate lines for “ladies” and “gents” with differently gendered people patting you down. I unfortunately don’t know what transgendered travelers should do. If you have been in this situation and can provide some input, please let me know!
It’s best to hold your cell phone in your hand. After the X-Ray, the metro police may decide to check your bag. They always do this whenever you have your camera, other electronics and your selfie stick inside. Be compliant and you’ll soon be on your way.
Airport Express
If you take the Airport Express, you can get from the Delhi airport to New Delhi in 20 minutes. It costs 60 rupees on a single journey token. At the New Delhi station, you can switch to the yellow line.
Tokens
Single journey trips are paid for in advance. Tell the agent where you are going, or use one of the automated machines to select your destination. This first part is confusing. You have to swipe your token on the RFID reader next to the turnstiles. You are confused at first because it looks like it only accepts cards. But if you look at the graphics closer you realize there is a red circle the size of your token on top of that card drawing. When you place your token on it, the turnstiles open. When you’re ready to leave a station, insert your token into the coin slot.
Smart Cards
These cards with RFID tags inside are available for a deposit of 50 Rupees and an initial charge of 100 rupees. Available at the “Customer Service” kiosks of some stations, including the one on the New Delhi yellow line, these cards offer cheaper rides, faster boarding times because you don’t have to buy a token before each ride, and you can even recharge it online. It’s totally worth it.
Navigating Delhi by public Bus
If you’re used to Southeast Asia, parts of South America and generally anywhere in the world, you know that taking a public bus can be a real hassle. Delhi is no different, at least for the moment. Usually a bus won’t stop at the bus stop for very long unless you are in a very large group or you are a woman carrying children. If you’re traveling solo, chances are the bus driver will keep on driving, albeit a little slower, for you to grab on and get in. There is a bus driver in the front and there is a man collecting fares in the back of the bus. Good luck to you and your ankles.
E-Rickshaws, Auto-cycles, and other forms of pedicabs
Now that you’ve made it all the way into Delhi proper, you find yourself still a couple kilometers away from your actual destination. But in all likelihood, you will encounter men in various states of dress on different methods of transportation. Whether it’s pedal-powered, compressed gas or electric, as a foreigner you will likely have to pay higher prices for these services. But, like stated above, this nation is very poor. You want to make sure you give a fair amount to these workers. They work really hard. But don’t overpay and ruin it for the rest of us. Our reputation as backpackers are on the line! Generally, 20–50 rupees will get you anywhere. Anything more is a little outrageous. You’re better off looking at the options above.
Feet don’t fail me now
No matter what the rickshaw drivers claim, Delhi is a perfectly walkable city. Don’t second guess your ability to walk to places. As always, be vigilant. Don’t believe everything strangers tell you. Stay safe, keep on adventuring, and most importantly embrace and enjoy the beautiful chaos of Delhi!
