Fashionable Consumption in Berlin
As my journey in Berlin comes to an end, I am left with a lasting impression of this unique and eccentric city. From its vibrant street art to its rich architectural history, Berlin embodies a spirit of individuality and creativity. This spirit is also captured within the fashion community, where Berlin demonstrates a deep commitment to sustainable consumption.
Fashion consumption and trends have undoubtedly evolved throughout the centuries. Prior to the Industrial Revolution, garments were typically handmade by skilled workers in local communities for the elites. These garments were often elaborate and made from natural fibers. However, as technology advances, such as with the introduction of the sewing machine, clothes can be produced at a much faster rate, making ready-to-wear clothing more accessible to the general public. As a result, clothes became simpler in design to streamline the production process. It was also during this time that the term “sweatshops” was coined as workers were paid low wages and worked long hours in order to keep production cost low. Synthetic fibers also aided in lowering down the cost, enabling manufacturing to sell cheaper clothes.
Fast forward to the post World-War II era, fashion began to transform into a form of political expression. This was especially evident given the division between East and West Germany as distinct fashion styles emerged, reflecting the political tensions at the time. Punk fashion, which rejected traditional ideals and emphasized individuality, emerged in West Germany as a form of protest by the youth for a unified nation. In the East, fashion became a symbol of rebellion as the younger generation challenged the uniformed life under the German Democratic Republic. Individuals would create their own clothes from the limited supply and smuggled items to achieve the punk style.
Today, fashion remains a form of self-expression. However, shifts in global trends, the rise of fast-fashion giants, and widespread adoption of e-commerce platforms has transformed this landscape towards a culture of consumption. Given the massive selection of clothes and the added convenience of online shopping, consumers see clothes as disposable commodities. This mindset places a significant risk on both the environment and the well-being of garment workers. From an environmental standpoint, mass production requires vast amounts of energy, water, and raw materials, which contributes to climate change. Not only so, but fast fashion also exploits workers to meet the insatiable demand and perpetuates the cycle of poverty and inequality.
During a company visit to Kollateralschaden, Philippe, the founder, passionately vocalizes his stance on cheap labor and fast fashion. He also emphasizes the importance of sustainable manufacturing practices, such as incorporating a circular economy model in the fashion industry. Thus, Kollateralschaden is a fashion label that upcycles used clothes and gives it a second chance at life. Through their commitment, the brand challenges the conventional fast-fashion model and offers a sustainable alternative for its environmentally conscious customers.
Each piece in their collection tells a unique story, expressing creativity and innovation in a world saturated with identical looks.
During the company visit, I vividly remember Philippe striking the difference between slow fashion and fast fashion. Slow fashion, he explains, is the emphasis on quality over quantity, encouraging consumers to buy timeless pieces rather than trendy ones. He also rebutted the common misconception that slow fashion does not necessarily equate to slow production times. In fact, slow fashion can often be “faster” than fast fashion, given the context of his store, as a new garment can be created under two hours and picked up by the customer. Phillipe also illustrated the efficiency of local production and the elimination of the middlemen, which reduces the negative externality of transportation.
Overall, the company visit to Kollateralschaden was enlightening. However, one question that still remains is the trade-offs between sustainability and affordability. While the business is commendable, the accessibility of its products remains a concern for the average customer. With an average price of 120 euros per garment, there is significant barrier of entry for individuals who are seeking to make sustainable fashion choices. Thus, it raises questions of whether sustainable and slow fashion can ever be democratized to the wider audience without compromising quality and ethical standards.
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