Along Chuckanut Drive — The Emerald State’s Big Sur
Exploring Washington’s 1st State Park
Two roads diverged in a wood and I — I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference…Robert Frost
Story by Erin Deinzer
In 1915, Robert Frost’s “The Road Not Taken” was published in The Atlantic Monthly. That same year, on the other side of the continental U.S., Washington’s first state park was established with a donation of 20 acres.
Originally named Chuckanut State Park—chuckanut is believed to be a native word meaning “long beach from a narrow entrance”—it was renamed Larrabee State Park in 1923 to honor the family who provided the original tract of land.
Almost 100 years later, the 21-mile long Chuckanut Drive, the road that runs alongside and through Larrabee State Park, is sometimes referred to as “Washington’s Big Sur.” Overlooking Samish Bay, it offers breathtaking views of the San Juan Islands as well as Chuckanut Bay.
Although the cliffside drive isn’t as dramatically high as Highway 1 is near Big Sur in California, Chuckanut Drive is nevertheless a stunning piece of Pacific Northwest shoreline forest, where moss-covered trees line the roadway and cascading waterfalls head out in search of the sea.
Even though Chuckanut Drive is easily accessed, most travelers to Whatcom County and/or Bellingham never bother to divert from the I-5 to take the road less traveled. But for those who do, the rewards (to quote Robert Frost) will make all the difference.
Begin your journey of exploration from the south, where the drive (also known as Washington State Route 11) begins in Skagit County—noted for its agricultural abundance. According to Washington State University, local farmers annually produce around $300-million worth of crops, livestock, and dairy products on about 90,000 acres of land. (Fun fact: More tulip, iris, and daffodil bulbs are produced in Skagit than in any other county in the U.S.) The area is also home to thousands of resident and migrating animals, including the gorgeous white trumpeter swans that flock to the area in wintertime.
In the tiny town of Edison, indulge in some of Skagit’s dairy production with a stop at Samish Bay Cheese, where owners Suzanne and Roger Wechsler turn out award-winning cheeses and delectable dips. Favorites include a Salmon Dip made with wild Alaskan salmon, and a Labneh Dip rich with Za’atar and olive oil, as well as a Blue Cheese Ball, Jalapenito Cheese Ball, and their signature Ladysmith cheese—which won a 1st-place award from the American Cheese Society.
Pack up your goodies to go or relax outside while you nibble on cheese, dips, and crackers (also sold onsite). Additionally, the shop stocks a nice, though limited, selection of wine and non-alcoholic beverages.
Depending on the time of day you might pop around the corner to Breadfarm, where they bake delicious house-made cookies, pastries, granolas, and bread — all available via a walkup window instituted during the early days of Covid and now the full-time model of operation.
Fueled up and ready to do some meandering? Take a 10-minute detour west on Bow Hill Road to the charming hamlet of Bow to discover unexpected goodies in shops like Hedgerow and the Lucky Dumpster, as well as at Indigo Dreams Fiber Studio and the Smith & Vallee Gallery. It’s best to allot 1-to-1.5 hours to enjoy the town at a leisurely pace.
Afterwards, retrace your steps back to Route 11 and turn left to continue north. Be on the lookout for hikers and bikers — there are a lot of switchbacks and distracting views — as you make your way to Taylor Shellfish Farms (where the mantra is “From tide to table”) located on the west side of the highway. Turn onto the steep road that takes you down to the water’s edge, then park near the railroad tracks and follow the crowd to the restaurant where you can sit and enjoy freshly shucked oysters or pick up some fresh seafood including “I-dare-you-to-try-it” geoduck from the market.
Taylor Shellfish has been farming sustainable shellfish in the PNW since the 1890s, so be sure to look at their onsite operations before you make your way back to the main road.
Returning to Chuckanut Drive, turn left and continue northbound to Larrabee State Park and prepare to do some hiking to work off all the food you’ve been indulging in.
Located on the east side of the road, Fragrance Lake Trail offers a 3.9-mile loop trail that’s popular for good reason: The steady uphill climb gains almost 1,100 feet in altitude as you wind your way through fern-draped, old-growth forest — wowing you at every switchback. The reward at the end of the journey is Fragrance Lake.
You might think the moniker refers to the lake’s aroma but that’s somewhat misleading as there isn’t a particularly fragrant plant or flower growing at its banks. That said, the water is cool and refreshing, and welcoming to those wanting to jump in for a swim. If plunging into cold water isn’t your thing, there’s also a 0.6-mile loop trail around the lake that provides additional photo ops.
But the best viewpoint is about halfway up (or down) the hill, where there’s a short spur trail that takes you to an overlook above Samish Bay. Linger there for a bit and let yourself appreciate the intrinsic beauty of the area, and marvel at your good fortune due to someone who lived in the last century donating the land that would become this magnificent park.
After your hike, one last stop you won’t want to miss is Chuckanut Bay Gallery & Sculpture Garden, which showcases everything from yard art and outdoor sculptures to home décor, handblown glass art objects, jewelry, and more.
The gallery is home to the work of more than 400 local artists; with so many different styles and kinds of offerings, you’re sure to find something you can’t live without.
Finish your journey at the north end of Chuckanut Drive in historic Fairhaven at any of a variety of restaurants, bars, or breweries that will give you an opportunity to settle in for a sundowner and toast to the day’s adventures — all enjoyed on the road less traveled by.
