The Aura of Aitutaki
A South Pacific Gem
Story and photos by John Penisten
The short flight to Aitutaki atoll from Rarotonga, Cook Islands, sets in motion a real adventure to the South Pacific. Located 160 miles and a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, Aitutaki is a spectacular triangular-shaped atoll some 27 miles around, surrounding a sparkling lagoon. If you’ve never seen an atoll, prepare to be stunned. Aitutaki is simply magnificent.
Magnificent Aitutaki
The atoll is like a necklace with the pendant, a hook-shaped main island flanked by the 15 or so motu (islets) along the eastern barrier reef. The brilliant blue-green of the atoll lagoon contrasts sharply with the dark blue of the ocean, like an oasis in a desert. With a land area of only seven square miles, the main island’s highest point, Maungapu rises to just 420 ft. According to local legend, it is the top of Rarotonga’s Paemaru Peak brought back by raiding Aitutaki warriors long ago. Sandy beaches and shoals of the motu converge into the blue-green depths of the lagoon.
The vivid beauty of Aitutaki almost appears to be a mirage afloat on azure seas. Here, the days are long and languid, and the nights filled with brilliant stars. Aitutaki is populated with some 2400 Polynesians who follow a simple lifestyle unencumbered by the tensions of the modern world.
In 1942, during World War II, on a narrow peninsula of land, U.S. servicemen arrived and built the present Aitutaki Airport. In the early days of flying, Aitutaki served as a stopover for the trans-Pacific flying boats from New Zealand used by Tasman Empire Air Lines, the forerunner of Air New Zealand. Even before Rarotonga had an airport, Aitutaki was the Cook Islands’ only outside air link. Aitutaki lagoon was used as the landing strip, and Akaiami motu was used as the refueling stop for the flying boats.
Aitutaki — A Special Place
To see Aitutaki closeup, hop on a motorbike or bicycle and take a spin around the island. The main roads are paved near the coast and gravel across the interior. Escapees from urban congestion and freeway madness will appreciate the fact that there is hardly any traffic and no traffic lights on Aitutaki. Traffic isn’t a problem here yet. It’s that kind of place.
Arutanga, the main town, is about three miles or so from the airport. It’s a typically languorous old South Seas port town that spends most of its time drowsing in the sun. The main street is lined with old island trade stores, the post office, government offices, general stores, and such. Near the center of town is the sports field and the Arutanga Cook Islands Christian Church. There is a small open market near the wharf which sells local goods and produce and there are sometimes a few stalls selling island‑made arts and crafts. There really isn’t a whole lot to see in Arutanga other than a vivid slice of life in a genuine sleepy South Seas port.
The roads in the interior of the island pass through lush forest areas and neat farms and gardens of Aitutakians living in the rural areas. There’s a wave or a word for just about everyone along the road. On Aitutaki, everybody knows or is related to everybody else, it seems.
Aitutaki has that unique island sense of community and caring about others, where every individual is important. It comes from the smallness of the place, the slow pace of life in general, and the endemic lifestyle of the islands, often called “The Pacific Way” which Westerners don’t quite fathom. But, as a visitor, you quickly notice it, respect it, and, yes, even envy it. It’s what makes Aitutaki such a special place.
The Aura of Aitutaki
The protective coral reefs, lagoon, and the several motu riding on the fringe are Aitutaki’s major visitor attractions. Lagoon cruises for snorkeling and diving are very popular with visitors and are a featured activity. The cruise out to the motu and reefs across the lagoon takes an hour or so. It’s one of the most sensual parts of the entire Aitutaki adventure. The brilliant blue-greens of the lagoon make the white sand beaches and groves of coconut palms on the motu stand out vividly against the puffy white clouds and blue South Pacific sky. Some have described Aitutaki as the most beautiful island in the South Pacific. It’s a hard point to argue.
After a mid-morning departure on the cruise catamaran, the first stop across the lagoon is at one of the desert motu for a short beach combing stroll and exploration. It’s just a few minutes walk around the eight to ten-acre motu, following the shoreline at low tide. The small islet has a dense stand of coconut palms along the gorgeous sandy beach and heavy vegetation in the interior. The shoreline has some outcroppings of basaltic rock, indications of the islet’s volcanic origins eons ago.
Then, it’s back on the catamaran for a short cruise to a good snorkeling spot in the lagoon. After anchoring the boat carefully, it’s into the water for cruise guests and time to snorkel among numerous colorful fish and corals, seashells and mollusks, sea anemones, and blue starfish. Aitutaki’s lagoon is a microcosm of colorful species of tropical fish such as parrotfish, wrasses, angel fish, and many more.
Meanwhile, the crew prepares a real atoll-style lunch of fresh ahi and mahi onboard with breadfruit, salad, fruit, and more. After lunch, the boat pulls ashore at the motu called Tapuaetai, or One Foot Island. Here, visitors can swim, relax, or have another chance to play Robinson Crusoe and explore the small coral islet surrounded by blue-green waters. The lagoon cruise is a highlight of the Aitutaki adventure and leaves an indelible impression.
It’s the aura of Aitutaki. Perhaps it’s the rural nature of the place and its relative isolation off the beaten path. And yet it’s also the gentle people who inhabit these islands, their lifestyle, and the glorious beauty of reef, motu, and sky. Aitutaki is a mellow place that grows on you, caressing you with its brisk trade winds. It’s the sort of place that, just when you think you’ve forgotten it, comes rushing back in a flood of pleasant memories of time spent in its warm embrace. It has a way of not letting you forget. Somehow, the wondrous and fragile world of Aitutaki never really lets you go.
If You Go
Day tours and overnight stays at Aitutaki can be arranged through Air Rarotonga, the local airline. Air Rarotonga offers several round-trip flights daily to Aitutaki from Rarotonga. Day tours from Rarotonga to Aitutaki include round‑trip airfare, a lagoon cruise with on-board lunch, and all snorkeling equipment provided. For the latest details, see the website: www.airraro.com
Accommodations on Aitutaki vary from budget to luxury. Nightly rates at some of the pricier places include the Pacific Resort Aitutaki (US$888+) and the Tamanu Beach Resort (US$470+), both near Arutanga town. Moderately priced places include Paparei Beachfront Bungalows (US$165+) and Aitutaki Village (US$272+), among others. Rates are generally quoted in New Zealand Dollars as that is the common currency used in the Cook Islands. Some of the rates include breakfast; check special package deals with lagoon cruises and air transportation included. Get the latest hotel information through the Cook Islands Tourism website: https://cookislands.travel/us
Independent island tours can be arranged as well as rental cars, motorbikes, and bicycles. Snorkeling and diving lagoon cruises can also be arranged on Aitutaki through several local tour operators. Lagoon cruises usually include lunch and plenty of time to snorkel. It’s a great way to experience Aitutaki. There are a variety of related sports, fitness and cultural activities available on Aitutaki as well.
Previous versions of this story have appeared in Pacific Magazine, Hawaiian Airlines Hawaii, and the Hawai’i Tribune Herald.
About the Writer
John Penisten is a photojournalist and longtime resident of Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai’i. He has authored the guidebooks Hawai’i the Big Island, Kaua’i the Garden Island, Adventure Guide to Hawai’i, and Experience the Big Island: The Road to Adventure. His personal adventure book Green Hills and Blue Lagoons: A Peace Corps Memoir, covers his travels and experiences as a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer in the Fiji Islands, South Pacific. His travel stories and photos have appeared in a variety of print and online publications.
