The Cultural Feast of San Miguel de Allende in Mexico
Story and photos by Lisa Alpine
I suffer from tourist phobia, which is hypocritical because I am one. Usually avoiding popular destinations, I found myself inexplicably drawn to the expat haven of San Miguel de Allende in Mexico this fall. Why had I avoided going to San Miguel all these years? Trepidation that I would be surrounded by mostly white, rich, faux-artsy Californians and Texans who enjoy cheap maid service and dress like Frida Kahlo on Halloween. Cringe.
San Miguel’s renowned writing community was the lure — I had signed up for a workshop on completing your book manuscript, thinking this would kick my book over the finish line. Alas, the workshop was canceled, but I was eager to speak Spanish for three weeks anyway. Plus it was during Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead) one of the most colorful pagan traditions in the world.
But the main reason was to speak Spanish. Latin languages are so poetic. Food for the communicator in me — for the artist in me. Spanish is so much more romantic and lyrical than Teutonic English.
Gleefully convincing myself I would work unsupervised on my book during vacation, I succumbed.
San Miguel stunned me in many ways. It’s a World Heritage site and classically lovely with cobblestone streets, houses splashed in hues of ochre, persimmon, pomegranate, and sunburnt orange. In the historic center, there are an estimated two thousand hewn-wood colonial doors framed by handcrafted ironwork. Each portal reveals a lush, verdant courtyard graced with bubbling fountains and filled with twittering songbirds.
This place was heaven for a culturally-thirsty traveler like myself. I did meet a few expats — 5% of the population are foreigners — but many of them stay within their luxury compounds recuperating from facelifts. Yes, Americans come here to get “work” done.
But to my surprise and utter delight, everywhere I wandered I was surrounded by teems of jovial Mexicans who swooped me up, including me in their festivities.
In front of the dramatic, Gothic, pink-stoned La Parroquia (cathedral), two women and I were giggling over a bride debarking from a Rolls Royce limousine. It took her ten minutes to extract her satin and lace wedding veil and train. She pulled and yanked. Finally, yards of material snaked out of the backseat to writhe in voluminous mounds on the cobblestones like an albino anaconda. My new friends from Mexico City and I laughed so hard we had to hold onto each other. The hilarity was contagious and soon their entire family of six were heehawing along with us. After wiping away tears of mirth, they invited me to dinner leading me down backstreets to a funky hole-in-the-wall cantina where we indulged in Negro Modelos and chicken mole enchiladas. They flagged down a strolling mariachi band, negotiated a price per song, and danced and sang for an hour in the space between the dining tables. I had met my tribe — folks who dance and hoot with laughter uninhibitedly. The next thing I knew we were in their van driving off on an adventure — dancing and cavorting almost every place we stopped. They were on a road trip to forget about the passing of the man’s wife recently and Grandma’s double mastectomy. They kept saying “Thank you for trusting us”. I replied, “Thank you for trusting me. How do you know I’m not an axe murderer?” This made them pause and glance at me sideways, then we all broke out into gales of laughter.
Deposited back in San Miguel, I wandered into another ornate chapel to get a good look at the statue of Mother Mary dressed in a baby blue gown peering down from the altar. On my way out of the church, a man with kind eyes said “Sit down. Join us”. Next thing I knew I’m kneeling and praying to Mary out loud with my buddies in the pews around me. I’ve never been religious and don’t know the prayers but the man next to me made a point of singing loudly into my ear so I could join in. I even crossed myself a few times (probably in the wrong direction). After an hour, they suddenly rose in unison (my knees were grateful) and filed into the aisle. A gentle hand guided me by the elbow into the center of the procession heading toward the altar. The two men hoisted a saint’s icon perched on a palanquin onto their shoulders and we proceeded to circumambulate the church while chanting. I was in the middle and a foot taller than my other processionaires. Not to mention the only non-Mexican. Finally, I ducked out of the line and headed back into the sunshine.
This is how friendly Mexicans are — they tuck you under their wing and include you in their life. It does help that I speak Spanish. I recommend boning up on your language skills before you get there so you too can join in the dancing, singing, and inclusive life of Mexican families.
The other aspects I adored about San Miguel are the prolific art scene, fabulous restaurants, and stimulating excursions. Every day was a cultural feast. Especially during the week surrounding the vibrant Dia de Muertos celebrations in this colonial town perched at 6400 feet elevation in the center of Mexico.
I didn’t even have time to take a nap in our beautiful vacation rental or sip wine on its gorgeous rooftop patio. I also didn’t write — not one word made it onto the page.
San Miguel de Allende Trip Planning Recipe
I’ll break my trip recipe into categories and I recommend you sample every item on the menu:
TRAVEL TIPS: Stay in El Centro — the historic district. It is flatter for walking and the epicenter of most activities and restaurants. If you aren’t into walking on uneven cobblestones, taxis are everywhere and the average ride costs $3.
Check if your bank reimburses you for foreign ATM transaction fees. Use your debit card for cash and your credit card for purchases.
If you are satisfied with the service in a restaurant, ask the waiter to add the 15% tip to your credit card total. Just say más quince when handing the waiter your credit card.
Airbnb and HomeAway have oodles of lodging choices at very reasonable rates. I paid $40 a night for a room with its own private garden patio — including breakfast. When my friend arrived, we rented an entire three-story home with two master bedrooms each with a fireplace and bathtub for $100/night. Both were in El Centro and within a 5–15 minute walk to anywhere we went.
Fly into Leon and take the shared shuttle ride to San Miguel booked online through Bajiogo for $25 each way.
Get a free copy of the newspaper Atencion — which includes a weekly events calendar in English. It is also online.
Again, try to learn Spanish before you go so you can relate to Mexicans and absorb their generous, heartfelt, joyous nature.
RESTAURANTS: The food in San Miguel is superb. I ate everywhere — from the street market to the fancy rooftop restaurant. Not one burp or fart. Plus, due to walking everywhere, I lost five pounds despite the delicious meals.
El Pegaso was our favorite. Great service, rooftop dining, affordable pricing, and every meal rocked! Savor the stuffed poblano peppers with a walnut cream sauce topped with pomegranate seeds ($10). Sip the Dos Aves stout or Belgium ale made by a friend of mine who has migrated to San Miguel. Her husband started the brewery. She and I taught art and dance in France together.
Quince is where I took my best friend for her birthday. Declared “#1 rooftop destination in the world” by Forbes Magazine, the prices are higher, the service poorer, the food good but the view of La Parroquia — fantastico!
Inside Café is very reasonably priced, has a small rooftop patio for dining, and serves up the yummiest salads, green drinks, and grilled cheese sandwiches ($7). The downside? It closes at 3 PM.
Hecho en Mexico is the classic Mexican go-to place for enchiladas, margaritas, and excellent salads ($7). Reasonably priced and solid menu.
Los Milagros is another reasonably-priced Mexican classic. Get a seat in the open-air window right before dark when they turn on the Disneyland-esque lights on La Parroquia, across the plaza. The chicken mole enchiladas ($7) are a hit. Skip their salads.
Tio Lucas for excellent steak ($18) and wine. Live jazz combos play daily.
Garambullo Fonda Gourmet has fantastic salads ($8) and egg dishes. Service is slow but food is fab and affordable.
TOURS, EXCURSIONS, & CULTURAL EVENTS: Cultural events crowded my calendar: Lectures on Day of the Dead at the Bibliotheca, tours at the Mask Museum, flamenco performances, gallery openings, theater and music nightly at various venues, salsa dancing to Cuban bands in swanky clubs.
The excursions outside of town were all within a 30-minute drive from the plaza so you can take a taxi or Uber. All the tours include transport. It was splendid to see the countryside, soak in hot springs, climb a pyramid, meander through a botanical garden.
Tours:
The street art in San Miguel de Allende’s Guadalupe neighborhood is outstanding. Make sure to go on the mural tour with Colleen who founded Muros en Blanco — the organization that supports and gets permits for these outstanding young street artists.
The Chapel of Jimmy Ray, just 15 minutes outside of town, is a visual mind explosion of mosaicked buildings in swirling psychedelic patterns. Anado and his partner Richard have created a wonderland in their house and gardens. These eclectic, warm, creative souls have built a compound where art is king. There is also a gallery exhibiting local talent. Keep an eye out for their gallery openings known to be quite wild and wonderful. Call for tour times ($10).
For a contrast, visit the humble church down the street from Jimmy Ray. It is dedicated to healing. The chapel resembles Chimayo in New Mexico with milagros and cast-away crutches lining the altar.
The Pyramid Tour at Cañada de la Virgen ($50)offered by archeologist Albert Coffee is a must-do. Most folks are not aware there is a pyramid complex just 30 minutes from San Miguel. The bodies buried in here are close to 4000 years old and Albert is a superlative guide who piles on detail after detail of fascinating facts about this recent discovery. You can also combine a horseback ride and lunch ($95) with Albert in the countryside near the pyramid.
El Charco botanical garden (cactus and succulents) offers guided walking tours and free pick-up at the Civic Plaza. Their website lists tour times ($4) and events like full moon sweat lodges, bird walks, and concerts above the waterfalls. There is a good cafe on-site where you can drink nopale cactus juice smoothies.
You are going to need a taxi or bus to get to El Escondido hot springs ($7) set in a tranquil pine forest park. The water pours from the hillside into inner sanctums that have the appearance and vibe of a chapel. It is magical and the mineral waters are super healing. You can eat at the spa or drive onto to Mama Mia Campestre countryside restaurant for quality food in a garden setting.
Nearby is Atotonilco Sanctuario (called the Sistine Chapel of Mexico) famous for its murals. The nuns there sell quesadillas on a refectory table just outside the church if you’d like some cheap eats in an unusual setting.
CULTURAL ACTIVITIES & MUSEUMS: Visit Fabrica La Aurora for a design overdose and gallery crawl. Watch for events like their well-attended monthly evening art walk with drinks and snacks served.
Bellas Artes has first-class music shows, lectures, art galleries, and a café.
The Mask Museum is truly fabulous — exhibiting a private collection of over 1600 masks from all over Mexico.
The Biblioteca (public library) has events daily in their theater, lecture halls and outdoor plaza. From history lectures, to current cinema, to flamenco performances. Free or for a minimal fee.
Check out the Airbnb Experiences in San Miguel.
HEALTH & WELLNESS: Ecstatic or 5-Rhythms-style Danza del Alma every Wednesday 7 PM and Sunday 10:30 am –noon at Bellas Artes Dance Studio. Fee: $3.50.
Azenet Macedo is a healer deluxe! I had three Mayan Healing Massages with her. Wow! (2 hours for $60). Contact: kiejvenado@hotmail.com. Cell: +52.1.415.105.0485
LifePath offers gentle daily yoga classes ($7.50) and massage treatments.
Story & photographs excerpted from the book Dance Life: Movin’ & Groovin’ Around the Globe by Lisa Alpine
