The Other Side of Baja
Not far from the Cabo party scene are quiet bays and beaches on two stunning coastlines
Stories and photos by Bob Cooper
This is a tale of two Bajas. First is the Baja of countless travel-package offers from the blockbuster beach resorts that connect the coastal towns of San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas — together called Los Cabos — at the southern tip of Baja California. This is the Baja of bottomless drinks at wade-up pool bars, nightclubs and hotel discotecas that open at 11 p.m. and brassy, elbow-to-elbow fun.
The other Baja nearby is quiet, natural and authentic. This is the broader region of the southern Baja peninsula that takes in the old city of La Paz, mining and fishing villages slowly turning to tourism, and marine-life sanctuaries on the Sea of Cortez. This side of Baja offers a different sort of fun, with less crackle, but in the deeper sense, more pop.
After surviving many disasters in recent years — typhoons, COVID, ever-shifting border policies and ongoing but unfounded safety concerns (crime is lower in southern Baja than in most U.S. cities), Cabo is as popular as ever. The young party crowd, families and retirees all flock to the resorts. Around the corner from Cabo Wabo is a swim-with-the-dolphins theme park and a new performing arts center. But know this: Cabo is a scene, while the other Cabo is all about the scenery.
Fortunately, you don’t have to choose between the two Bajas. If you wish, you can stay at an all-inclusive Cabo resort by night and swim with sea lions or visit seaside villages by day.
Exploring the Sea of Cortez
Seventy-five years ago, John Steinbeck was so enchanted by the biodiversity of the Sea of Cortez, which he explored with marine biologist and pal Doc Ricketts, that he wrote a book about it (The Log from the Sea of Cortez). He arrived by boat, but you probably will in a rental car. Looking in one direction from the coastal road, you will swear you’re in southern Arizona, with cordon cacti (similar to saguaro) decorating the hills. But swivel your head the other way and it’s a scene straight out of Hawaii or the Caribbean: marinas and countless white-sand beaches, with a turquoise sea offering prime kayaking, snorkeling and other water sports.
Southern Baja’s most popular day trip is the boat ride through Espiritu Santo Archipelago National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), past uninhabited Espiritu Santo and Purtita islands to Los Islotes (“the islets”). There, you’ll slip on a mask and snorkel and splash right into the middle of a colony of hundreds of remarkably friendly sea lions. This is no “sea lion experience” in a marine life park; this is the real deal. Naturally curious and playful, the sea lions will dart toward and right past you almost the moment you enter the water — frightening at first until you realize they’re just fooling around. Being in their world and seeing them gleefully slash and twist through the water will change your perspective on which species has it best.
Next is a stop to dry off at one of the dozens of cove beaches on the islands for a picnic lunch or fish barbecue — and depending on the operator, possibly some time to hike, kayak or ride a standup paddleboard. Then it’s back to La Paz, but not before you’ll see red-limestone formations and spot faces in the cliffs; huge flocks of pelicans, cormorants and graceful “kites.” and maybe even a whale shark (harmless despite their status as the world’s largest fish). The Sea of Cortez is regarded as one of the top five marine ecosystems and one of the top 10 places to dive in the world. Whale watching on the Baja’s ocean shore in the winter is another option.
Operators that will transport you from your hotel to their boat for such outings include Choya Tours, EcoBajaTours, Fun Baja, ROW Adventures, The Cortez Club and Sunrider Adventure Tours.
La Paz and Baja’s Villages
In La Paz, a two-hour drive from Cabo, the gathering spot is the Malecon, a long promenade alongside a beach and the coastal road. All ages converge there to stroll, socialize and admire the sunset. Many seafood restaurants look out on the beach, but there are only a few bars (unlike Cabo) and small hotels; most of those are found on nearby beaches and marinas.
Other Baja towns are worth visiting, too. Todos Santos, on the Pacific between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz, boasts an eclectic population of fishermen, artists, surfers and expats, with annual art, music and film festivals. The Hotel California in the heart of town is widely regarded as the inspiration for the famous song due to its references to a “dark desert highway” and a “mission bell” (the old mission church is nearby). It is “such a lovely place,” too, with an excellent patio restaurant and bar full of quirky, colorful art pieces. But if you check out (any time you like), it’s untrue that you can never leave.
Also in southern Baja, Cerritos is known for its superb surfing beach; the old mining town of El Triunfo for its piano museum (the Museum of Music) and organic cafes; and well to the north, Loreto for its heavenly kayaking on a calm bay off the Sea of Cortez.
Wherever you go in southern Baja, the people are welcoming, the crime rate is low, travel costs are generally a bargain, and the opportunities for great diving, snorkeling, boating, sportfishing and camping are endless. If you’ve never visited southern Baja — or stuck to the Cabo resort strip on past visits — don’t wait for too many mananas.
If You Go
The lowest rates are in the summer. The coolest weather and best time for seeing whales and marine life is in the winter. And the ideal season is the fall — after the typhoon season but before high-season winter rates kick in.
For more information, go to www.golapaz.com.
Bob Cooper is an award-winning travel, outdoors, and profile writer (Wall Street Journal, National Geographic. Traveler, etc.) and freelance copy editor. See: www.bob-cooper.com
