Lava Beds National Monument in Northeastern California
Caves, Petroglyphs and Pictographs, Birds, Hiking Trails and more
Story and photos by Susan Alcorn
My most recent off-the-beaten-path trip was to Lava Beds National Monument in northern-eastern California. It had been more than fifty years since my last visit, but considering that one of the main draws of the monument is the caves formed by volcanic flows 10,500 to 65,000 years ago, the length of my absence was minuscule and the changes to the park but a blip on the radar.
I was anxious to show off the park to my husband, Ralph, who had never been there. We entered the park from the northern entrance, Gillems Camp, where we were greeted by a friendly and helpful park employee who asked us a couple of questions to find out if we had made any recent cave visits elsewhere. The questions are part of an effort by state and federal officials in the west to prevent spread of white-nose syndrome, a fungus that has killed more than a million bats east of the Rocky Mountains. Because we had not been to any caves of concern, we were given a permit to enter the monument.
We drove into the park and found the Indian Well Campground. Well is the only campground in the park. It’s first-come, first-served, but when I had called earlier, I was told that rarely was finding a space difficult, especially on a weeknight. We found a roomy site, with some shade available, and as Ralph was setting up our tent, I walked back to the fee station to pay the camping fee.
Exploring caves
We were then ready to set out to explore our first cave. We dropped by the visitor center to pick up some flyers. One of them rated the caves as least, moderately, or most challenging. Mushpot fell in the least challenging category. It was recommended as a starting point for first-time visitors because of its relatively high ceiling, smooth floors, and lighting. In addition, its interpretative signs, varied rock formations, and comfortable climate would make for an easy introduction to cave exploration. Nine other caves were listed in the least challenging group, but the number that may be open changes from time to time. At the time of our visit in the spring, two in that group were closed to protect young bats (pups) from human disturbances.
We headed for Mushpot, only 524 feet away. It was as advertised — with high ceilings, lights (though we still appreciated having our own headlamps), and informative signage. In addition, there were warning signs in places where most people would have to duck to avoid hitting low ceilings and raised markings on the floor. These safety measures are not in most other caves.
Six caves were rated moderately challenging. Most require having to stoop over or perhaps crawl to get past areas with low ceilings and have uneven or rough footing. Visitors should be prepared with protective gear appropriate to the individual cave — that likely means wearing long-sleeved shirts and long pants, knee pads, a helmet (available for purchase or free loan at the visitor center), and one or more flashlights or headlamps with extra batteries.
Five caves were listed under most challenging. People exploring these caves should be thoroughly prepared with the protective gear listed above, plus sturdy gloves. Some caves are narrow or have low ceilings. Thunderbolt Cave, for example, is only six inches wide at knee level in one place. Hopkins Chocolate Cave has a ceiling only three feet in height in one passage. Juniper Cave’s entrance through a two-and-a half-foot high opening requires either “duck-walking” or crawling. Catacombs Cave (which is more than a mile in length), is easy at the beginning but gets more difficult as you progress. It has multiple levels and side passages, and a map is highly recommended.
After Mushpot, we drove a short distance to another of the easier ones. However, when I looked down at the cave’s entrance from the rim, I decided not to try it because of my poor balance. Ralph made a brief visit. He worked his way down through the big rocks, peeked into the cave’s shallow entrance, and then headed back because we wanted to have enough time to visit another area of the park — the Petroglyph Section. (However, as he was making his way back, a gust of wind picked up his hat and blew it a considerable distance so he had to make his way through another stretch of huge rocks to find it.)
Driving to Petroglyph Point
From the ranger station and campground area, we drove back out through the entrance station and turned east to follow the highway alongside Tule Lake. It was about a 30-minute drive on paved road to reach our destination, Petroglyph Point. The huge rock formation is indeed impressive, but it’s the thousands of carved petroglyphs and painted pictographs that are most fascinating.
From the park literature, we learned that “the monument is located in the traditional territory of the Modoc people and their ancestors or predecessors. It is hard to date rock art, but it is thought that some of the images were made more than 6,000 years ago.” This archaeological site contains one of the largest panels of Native American rock art in the United States.
To protect the priceless site, a chain link fence surrounds large sections of the rock, but it’s easy to follow the Petroglyph Trail and find unobstructed viewpoints. We wondered why the carvings were so far off the ground; an interpretive sign explained that thousands of years ago the rock we see today was earlier part of an island surrounded by ancient Tule Lake. At that time, the water of the lake lapped up against the rock many feet above where the ground level now is. The Modoc people may well have used their tule-reed boats, or sturdier dugout canoes, to reach the site and make their carvings and paintings.
Tule Lake and Captain Jack’s Stronghold
Driving back toward the visitor center, we turned off the paved road onto the unpaved Wildlife Refuge Tour Road and made a short stop to walk out on a trail to one of the two wildlife overlooks at Tule Lake. May is not prime bird watching season (and we are not knowledgeable bird watchers), but enjoyed observing the ducks and being closer to the lake.
However, we also knew that Tule Lake and the surrounding area has suffered greatly from years of drought. What fifty years ago was a rich wetlands area that served as an important stop on the Pacific Flyway for migrating birds and resident waterfowl now sees a much smaller number of birds and less diversity of wildlife.
Back on the main road, we came upon a very important historical site — Captain Jack’s Stronghold, named for Modoc chief Captain Jack (Kintpuash in Modoc), who led his warriors through the two battles of the Modoc War.
Visitors can stop for a picnic lunch on the paved kiosk area, can take a walk on the 1.5-mile loop trail (uneven surfaces), and have the opportunity to learn why this monument, California Historical Landmark #9, was placed here. It tells of a dark period in American history.
The Modoc people had long used this area for hunting and gathering as it was part of their traditional territory, but as homesteaders and ranchers moved west in the 1800s, conflicts increased and the U.S. Army moved to protect the new settlers.
In the Modoc War of 1872–1873, the Modoc, in their effort to keep their homeland, faced the U.S. Army at this site. In the first battle, “With only 53 warriors, and numerous women and children in their band of 160, for five months held off the Army forces who outnumbered them by as much as 10 to 1. When viewing the shallow cave that served as a fortress, and the rugged surroundings, it’s not hard to imagine how the Modoc’s knowledge of the area was an asset to them.
In the second battle (April 1873), the Army (then 600 men strong) cut off the Modoc’s water supply — both to their spring and their route to Tule Lake. When the Modoc were forced out, they dispersed, but eventually, Captain Jack and three other warriors were captured and hung.
Day Two’s Cave Visits
We didn’t want to leave without another cave visit. Big Painted Cave and Symbol Bridge (both rated least challenging) sounded promising. Into the car for a two-mile drive and then a pleasant level walk about .75 miles to the cave and another .3 to the natural, rock bridge.
Because of the wildfire that raged through the park in 2021, we had seen several large swathes of land that had burned. Luckily not everything was touched; in some places, such as this site, there were some scorched trees, but also areas where vegetation was returning. As we hiked in from the road, we enjoyed seeing many patches of late-season wildflowers.
Reaching the cave and bridge was another highlight. Getting down into each site required making our way down a set of rock steps that had been placed in otherwise rocky terrain that made walking challenging. I used the railing until it ended, then worked my way down step-by-step walking or clambering, and gradually lowering myself to entrances. Never fear; the process wasn’t quick, but it was doable and worth the extra effort.
Big Painted Cave is shallow and has rock paintings just inside the entrance. Though some of the paintings are hard to distinguish because time has faded them and their colors blend with the rock, others can be found relatively easily.
We found it much easier to distinguish the figures at Symbol Bridge and the rich collection of pictographs made this stop a perfect ending for our all-too-short trip to remote, but amazing Lava Beds National Monument.
