Two New Central Coastal Open Spaces acknowledge Indigenous Peoples’ Ancestral Stewardship

6 min readSep 24, 2025

**Rana Creek Preserve in July. Photo: David A. Laws**

Story and photos by David Laws

From the rugged bluffs of Wilder Ranch to the wetlands of Elkhorn Slough and the oak savannah woodlands of Fort Ord, the Monterey Bay region on California’s Central Coast is a paradise for all who love the outdoors. Hikers, bikers, birders, and beachcombers flock to its national monuments, state beaches, and iconic parks and preserves. This landscape of trails and tidepools has recently grown richer: in the past year, two new parcels have been set aside for both preservation and public enjoyment — each with a personal connection to the author.

Cotoni-Coast Dairies

The Trust for Public Land purchased one of the largest privately held stretches of the California coast in 1998. TPL donated the coastal bluffs on the west side of Highway One near Davenport in Santa Cruz County to California State Parks. As Coast Dairies State Park, this five-mile stretch of rugged bluffs and pocket beaches linked by the California Coastal Trail is managed as part of Wilder Ranch State Park. Much of the land is leased to farmers for growing artichokes, fava beans, and strawberries.

Donated to the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in 2014, the area east of the highway, recently opened to the public as the Cotoni-Coast Dairies onshore unit of the California Coastal National Monument. [1] Nearly 6,000 acres of marine terraces overlooking the Pacific Ocean lead to trails that wind through riparian corridors of alder, Douglas fir, and towering redwoods, carved by streams that harbor endangered coho salmon, red-legged frogs, and steelhead trout. According to the BLM, a phased approach to recreation development will help protect the property’s sensitive biological and cultural resources.

The Cotoni (Cho-toe-knee) were Indigenous People whose ancestors settled the area thousands of years ago. Their traditional territory is now associated with the Amah Mutsun Tribal Band, which works to preserve their legacy through documentation and protection of archaeological sites. [2] Swiss farming families acquired the land from Spanish grantees in the 1860s. They developed dairy facilities and continued to farm the land for more than a century until selling the property to TPL to protect it from commercial development.

My personal connection to the project is through my friend Martin (Marty) J. Rosen, who, as a founding member in 1972, went on to serve as president and chairman as TPL grew to become one of America’s leading conservation organizations. [3] With a 16-year duration, Marty recalls Coast Dairies as one of the most protracted deals of his career.

I visited this newest unit of the California Coastal National Monument in August 2025, just a week after it opened to the public. This coastline is typically shrouded in chill, swirling fog in summer — the best times to visit are spring and fall — but that morning was unusually warm and sunny. The parking lot was filling fast with bikers and hikers who had waited years to explore the property.

**The author on the Tree (Huyya) Trail. Photo: Sharon Miller**

A newly constructed adaptive bike-friendly, and hiking Hawk (Káknu in the Cotini’s traditional Awaswas language) Trail West curved gently up the open coastal prairie terrace. At the junction with the aptly named Tree (Huyya) Trail, the vegetation changed from a scattered cover of coast live oak to a dense mix of redwood and fir as the path narrowed, snaking through the tall trunks of second-growth forest. Lined with banks of intense green, head-high thimble berry bushes, the path dipped steeply to the distant song of a creek before looping up to rejoin the Hawk Trail and back to the entrance via the East leg. In this direction, the incongruous tower structure of a former cement factory at Davenport, rising above the trees to the south, is the only sign of recent human habitation.

This moderate hike, approximately 5 miles long with a 600-foot elevation gain, can be extended to 9 miles by adding the more challenging Wildcat (Toróma) Trail. Bikes are permitted on all trails, but be sure to observe the direction of circulation signs. And please use safety bells on blind corners.

Rana Creek Preserve

The Mexican government established Rancho Tularcitos on the ancestral lands of the Esselen Indigenous People in the east Carmel Valley in 1834. A succession of owners managed the property as a cattle ranch until former Apple Computer executive Armas (Mike) C. Markkula purchased 14,000 acres, known as Rana Creek Ranch, in 1982 for use as a vacation retreat. The ranch features oak woodland habitat on the valley floor, with an understory rich in native plants, and annual, open grasslands on the 3,400-foot elevation ridges.

The Wildlands Conservancy acquired the property in 2023 as a preserve to be managed in partnership with the Esselen tribe. The acquisition safeguards a vital wildlife corridor connecting the Salinas Valley and Los Padres National Forest. According to Preserve Manager Kat Hardisty-Cranstone, the conservancy plans to restore fish, wildlife, and native habitat, and eventually open the land to the public for camping and hiking.

A nonprofit land conservancy, Wildlands acquires, restores, and opens land for free public recreation and environmental education. It manages 25 preserves totaling over 200,000 acres across the western United States. The Rana Creek project included an agreement to return 1,720 acres of culturally significant ancestral lands along Tularcitos Creek to the Esselen Tribe. The transfer was completed in 2025. [4]

**Hikers led by Kat Hardisty-Cranstone. Photo: David A. Laws**

Located in the upper Carmel Valley, 20 miles inland from the ocean, the climate and vegetation differ significantly from the coastside setting of the Coast Dairies. Although summer temperatures can often exceed 100 degrees, damp air creeping in from the ocean at night sustains healthy groves of ancient, towering Coast Live and Valley oaks. The property supports more than 25 species of mammals, including mountain lions, bobcats, and American badgers. American kestrels hunt over the grasslands and, occasionally, golden eagles soar above the ridgetops. Over 85 bird species, including yellow-billed magpies, Bullock’s orioles, and Lawrence’s goldfinches, have been reported by Audubon Society observers.

**A freh cat paw print, possibly lion, in the early morning trail dust. Photo: David A. Laws**

In addition to an association with Mike Markkula as my boss in the early days of Silicon Valley, I have a more direct recent connection to the property as a member of the first contingent of docents to lead hikes, birding events, work parties, and outdoor education programs for youth groups. In July, I led a private group on a recently constructed hiking trail of approximately 3 miles in length, with an easy 500-foot elevation gain that traverses the oak woodlands and native grass meadows of the lower slopes. Longer trails to the ridge top are planned, together with access from the Salinas Valley. To be advised of future events at Rana Creek, complete the Rana Creek Visitor Interest Form on the website.

If You Go

Cotoni-Coast Dairies is located at 1 Cement Plant Rd, Davenport, 12 miles north of Santa Cruz. Open daily from sunrise to sunset. Note: no target shooting or hunting; no dogs on Wildcat Trail (Third Loop); no camping or overnight parking; no RV access; and only Class 1 e-bikes are permitted. For more information and a map, visit the BLM Cotoni-Coast Dairies website.

Rana Creek Preserve is located at 35351 Carmel Valley Rd. Carmel Valley, 19 miles east of Highway One. Access through a locked gate is only by permission for scheduled events.