Old Big Oak Flat to Yosemite Valley
A point-to-point trek along Yosemite’s north rim
Essentials
- Type of trip: Weekender
- Drive time from San Francisco: 3–4 hours
- Difficulty and total mileage: 22 miles point to point, very difficult
- Crowds: Light at the beginning, then heavy from Yosemite Falls to the valley floor
- Temperatures: Varies with the season; we recommend visiting June–September. Temps can range from 70°F daytime to nighttime lows near 30°F. Check the current forecast here.
- Permits: Required for all overnight backpacking trips. You can apply to reserve a permit for Old Big Oak Flat in advance online through the National Park Service (NPS). You can also see which trailheads still have permits available here. Yosemite does reserve about 40% of the trail permits for first-come, first-served visitors… which means you need to show up at the permit-issuing station early on the day you want to hike.
- Bears/threatening wildlife: Bears are active in the area, so be sure to bring a bear canister and properly store your food.
- Water situation: Ample water. The trail passes numerous creeks and streams.
- Fire situation: Fires and camp stoves are allowed; check current fire restrictions before your trip.
Prep
Gear: Check out my temperate climate backpacking checklist for a recommended set of stuff to bring for this trip.
Food: For this hike, we opted for real food rather than freeze-dried. However, this hike does have a lot of elevation gain, so it’s worth considering freeze-dried meals if you’re concerned about pack weight.
Campground accommodations: If you leave Friday night, try your luck at one of the campgrounds outside Yosemite, like Hodgden Meadow or Crane Flat. Otherwise, it’s best to leave around dawn on Saturday and make the drive early in the day.
Trip Details
Saturday
We left San Francisco on Friday evening and camped just outside the park. Since we didn’t have permits, we planned to hit up the ranger station as soon as it opened at 8am. We had originally planned to hike the Pohono Trail, but seeing as it was the weekend before the 4th of July, all backcountry camping permits had already been issued for most of the popular trails. On the ranger’s recommendation, we agreed to try the Old Big Oak Flat trail to El Capitan.
The trail starts at a much lower elevation than you’ll end up, meaning the first 3 miles will be hot, dry, and somewhat exposed. Gorgeous wildflowers lined the trail throughout most of this section.
The hike is one long, steady climb up nearly 4,000 feet of elevation gain to reach El Captian, with almost no viewpoints along the way. The trail weaves between dense forest and dry, exposed granite slopes. You’ll cross several streams along the way, especially in the first 5 miles of the hike. The last chance for a water refill is about 0.25mi before El Cap.
All the hard work pays off when you drop your packs on top of El Cap and set up camp with this stunning view of Yosemite Valley. There’s a sweeping view on all sides. Kick back and enjoy an unforgettable sunset!
Sunday
On Sunday morning, we ventured out to the farthest tip of El Capitan to investigate the view. It’s about a 10–15 hike out to the very edge, with a slightly terrifying view.
After our adventure to the edge of El Cap, our group spontaneously decided to hike out through Yosemite Falls to the valley floor and try our luck hitchhiking back to the cars. From El Capitan, the trail weaves in and out of the forest, offering a few stunning vistas of the Yosemite Valley.
Along the way, you’ll also pass Eagle Peak, a 0.5mi RT detour from the main trail. Our group opted out of this side jaunt, but it’s a great opportunity for another stunning valley view with far fewer crowds than many of the others.
After passing Eagle Peak, the trail weaves through the woods before coming to the Yosemite Falls trail. At this point, you’ll start encountering some serious crowds. The trail to the viewpoint is just 0.5mi RT, but for this, we dropped our packs in the shade.
The viewpoint is perilously close to the edge of a sheer cliff, much like El Capitan.
Although the hike out is almost entirely downhill from this point, the steepness of the trail will take a toll on your legs. From Yosemite Falls down to the valley floor, the trail is a series of non-stop switchbacks with fairly heavy crowds. However, you’ll have stunning views the whole way down.
At the valley floor, we dropped our packs and spent a few minutes recuperating before launching our hitchhiking mission. Since our cars were parked back at Old Big Oak Flat, we had a good 11 miles to trek back and (hopefully) catch a ride. Along the way, we admired El Capitan from a new perspective, marveling at the giant granite rock.
Our group was too large to get picked up all at once, our friend Laura bravely trekked ahead, scoring a ride in almost no time, and then returning to the valley to pick up the rest of our crew. Back at the cars, our brilliant friends Nic and Laura surprised us all with ice cream sandwiches to celebrate the end of our epic trek!
