All about fermentation and anti-aging: CITE Japan 2019 shows off the cosmetic ingredients of the future
One of Asia’s most prominent cosmetic ingredient exhibitions, CITE Japan 2019 (Cosmetic Ingredients & Technology Exhibition) was held from 15 to 17 May. Anticipating the latest in J-Beauty and new skincare possibilities, visitors from within and outside Japan thronged the three-day event to find out about the latest trends in the cosmetic ingredients market.
Held every two years, CITE Japan showcases a wide variety of cosmetics-related materials, technologies, and services. Some 313 companies took part this year, including 36 from 10 different countries outside Japan, a record international presence for the event. The number of visitors has also increased year on year, with nearly 41,600 people passing through the event spaces at Pacifico Yokohama.
Exhibiting companies were sorted into seven categories: cosmetic ingredients, perfumery, packaging, manufacturing/measuring equipment, cosmetic tools, contract services for analysis and testing, and industry press. Each business showed off its top-of-the-line ingredients, technologies and services.
Seminar-style presentations also took place, with 180 programs held in six event spaces at 10 dedicated timeslots a day. This year, the most notable themes centered on new global trends, including microbiome technologies, sustainability, fermented ingredients, alternatives to microplastics, and anti-aging.
Here’s a closer look at four anti-aging and fermentation-related ingredients that caught our eye at CITE Japan 2019.
Anti-aging ingredients
Sensorialine™ (France, Silab/SCETI)
French company SILAB, specialized in cosmetic active ingredients of natural origin, is being represented in Japan by the firm SCETI. At CITE they showcased their new ingredient Sensorialine™, which is composed of two glycolipids sourced from a coconut co-product. It has been developed in line with the recent discovery of the existence of olfactory and taste sensory receptors into the skin. Sensorialine™ helps to restore the expression of these receptors present in the epidermis, which declines during aging. By boosting the migration and differentiation of keratinocytes (epidermal cells) via the activation of these receptors, Sensorialine™ helps to strengthen the skin barrier function and to improve skin appearance.
Ecobiotys™ (France, Silab/SCETI)
Another ingredient that drew attention at SCETI’s booth was Ecobiotys™, a natural active ingredient that focuses on microbiota. Ecobiotys™ is obtained from a yeast isolated in turn from the microbiota of floral nectar (Nectarobiota™), in particular from Hoya carnosa, a plant that features abundant, glossy star-shaped flowers. After applying Ecobiotys™, the bacteria of Corynebacterium family for example whose proportion increases in mature skin, is reduced by about 20% after 28 days. The resulting effects include an improved balance of the skin’s bacterial flora in mature skin and the enhancement of skin barrier quality.
Stem Clover RF® (Technoble)
This ingredient addresses the thinning of the skin as it gets drier with age. What causes thinning skin is the declining of function to keep the undifferentiated state of epidermal stem cells. So an ingredient derived from red clover, which is effective in preserving this state in the skin, was developed. When added to cultured skin, Stem Clover RF® was found to thicken the layer of living cells after three weeks. It improved the skin’s thickness and boosted moisture in the outermost skin layer.
Fermented ingredients
Fermentation is the chemical process that breaks down a substance using mold, bacteria, yeasts, fungus or other microorganisms. It is used around the world as a traditional food preservation method, producing acidic dairy products, alcoholic drinks, and other foodstuffs and beverages. In Japan, we have miso, soy sauce, and natto beans, while other regions have cheese, yogurt, vinegar and kimchi. But while there is nothing new about fermentation, more people are becoming aware of the benefits of good bacteria for gut health, by improving digestion and boosting the immune system.
Fermentation is also becoming a popular trend in skincare and cosmetics. Beauty companies are discovering new ways to use fermented ingredients in their products and are using attractive, innovative packaging to keep these ingredients fresh.
Fermented wasabi essence and fermented olive leaf essence (Katakura & Co-op Agri Corporation)
Fermented wasabi essence is derived from fermenting rare Japanese-grown wasabi via original techniques that use lactic acid bacterium. It is said to prevent the spread of pathogens in body odor. Fermented olive leaf essence is derived from olive leaves that are rich in antioxidants and have been fermented with the natural yeast of the Galactomyces family (which is used in sake brewing). This essence helps to control excessive sebum secretion, prevent the generation of fatty acid peroxides and encourage healthy cell turnover in the skin — making pores look less conspicuous.
Text: Denyse Yeo
Original text (Japanese): Lina Ono
