27/n: Rest

day 112: Te Anau to Aparima Hut K2794 over Princhester Road K2771

• 28km
• hitch hiking, trail

experience points

• trampinitus +1
• nature boy +1

The afternoon off in Te Anau was quite a treat for my feet. Intense rest, cooling and care. In the morning I almost thought that the injury had disappeared. But I know better. It is just a little goodwill. “treat pro tread.”

The fern is back

Like always it feels really good to be back on the trail again. Especially being in such a beautiful fern, moss and beech forest like the Takitimu Forest. In between there are sections with beautiful tussock planes.

The weather forecast predicted rain for the next days, but they might as well just say “It has to rain eventually, but we don’t know, there is too much going on to say for sure”

Open tussock ranges

It is fascinating to watch the weather and the clouds permit along the sky. It is not raining, but it could have. New Zealand weather.

Getting closer to Bluff also means that we meet more and more northbound hikers, that have just started. It is an interesting reminder of the own start and the first days and weeks.

A varied track like this, makes hiking so much easier

It is also nice to walk with some people that had a similar journey. It is nice to discover the similarities and differences, how this adventure has changed minds, thoughts and perceptions. How everyone seems to enjoy similar features of the trail and how everyone seems to struggle with similar idiosyncrasies of civilization.

day 113: Aparima Hut K2794 to Telford Campsite K2814

• 20km
• trail

experience points

• hundredsomething +1
• last 1000 +1

Another attempt to capture the forest. For better results- go there

Thanks to mice, rats and possums the night was less refreshing than I had hoped. Another obstacle on the last long stretch to Bluff. On a day that also had the last big climb of the trail. The low energy level made it harder to enjoy the trail, which continued to lead me through the Takitimu Forest.

Clouds over and underneath

This and the pressing weather, that surely and slowly changed to rain, turned a small day into an exhausting challenge.

Sometimes the look back arises a better view

Arriving at the campsite I tried to cool my feet in the tiny stream without being eaten by sandflies, made dinner and fell asleep under the sound of rain and thunder, which is opposite to mice, rats and possum the perfect sedative.

day 114: Telford Campsite K2814 to Birchwood Station K2841

• 27km
• trail, paddocks

experience points

• sheep’n cows’n shit +1
• pasture master +1

It rained all night, which would have been no problem if not for the condensation in my tent. Meaning, when there is heavy rain outside, it also rains inside. So in the morning I didn’t just have to put on wet clothes but also pack in wet gear.

Sprinkled with sheep

A pesky start into a very pesky day. I can’t put my finger on it, but the problem is probably that I’m in dire need of a rest day.

But that would be a luxury I’m not able allow myself that close to the end.

Speaking of rest. James’n Jordan are planning on doing a really big finale from Martins Hut all the way down to Bluff. Over one hundred kilometers in one go in probably about thirty hours. I’m tempted.

day 115: Birchwood Station K2841 to Freedom Camp K2877

• 36km
• trail, road, farm road

experience points

• pitch nass +1
• childhood memories+1

Another deforested area for either cows, sheep or deer

Today the rain has definitely arrived. Apparently it has already produced a lot of chaos on the South Island the past days. Many roads and tracks behind us are closed and tampers and tourists are stuck. So we were lucky again.

I keep that in mind while I start into the day. A very early start because in addition to today’s section, I have to hitch out to Otautau, to buy more foot. My metabolism is off the charts and I’m one day short of snacks to tame “the Hanger”. He needs constant feeding.

It is still dark, it is cold and it is raining but I’m in a very a

good mood. Because for once I’m proud of my discipline. I’m excited about the food I will buy and I’ve downloaded another childhood favorite in its broadway version — “Aladdin”.

The whole day the rain doesn’t stop. It is dark, gray, cold and cloudy but in my head Arabian nights are happening, which animates me to sing along as loud and musical-like as I can, although I barely know the lyrics. In my mind it is hotter than hot, in a lot of good ways.

I hitch a ride in and out of Otautau quicker than expected. Maybe it was the mix of miserable, cold, wet appearance with a happy and satisfied radiance.

I pitch my tent a few kilometers before Bald Hill Summit, surrounded by Eukalyptus, which smell amazing. I found a dryish spot at the side of the track. A nice cup of hot coffee and a hot soup later I lie here dry and cosy and very very happy.

James’n Jordan, Ada and Justin left later today. They are either behind or in front of me. I will catch up to them tomorrow probably. Hopefully the rain has stopped by then. If not, I will listen to “Aladdin” another ten times. Easily.

day 115: Freedom Camp K2877 to Colac Bay / Ōraka K2927

• 50km
• trail, road

experience points

• all the hills +1
• mud-walker +1

A magical forest to lull you in

Well that escalated quickly. The rain had stopped in the morning and a blue sky promised more good to come.

And this to mess around

Thanks to repeatedly drying off the condensation in my tent during the night, my sleeping bag and the rest of your gear wasn’t wet. A good start in a promising day. Topped off by a delicious Puhoi Yogurt, which I had bought in Otautau yesterday.

And then „le tour de mud“ began. The whole section through Longwood Forest gets a seven on the Hihikiwi scale — very muddy with a lot of suction at times, but not devious. It felt great to climb the last hills of the trail, with snowy mountain ranges in my back and the ocean in my front.

But at Martins Hut the day took a strange turn. I arrived there at noon, but the hut was not only dark like, but also smelled like a rats ass. It was so bad that I preferred the torture of the sandflies and had lunch outside.

This is the last hut for southbound and the first one for northbound hikers. A rat infested bio hazard. Indeed historic but above all irresponsibly disgusting.

My plan was to wait here for the others, but this changed quickly and I decided to keep going and look for a good spot to freedom camp.

The odyssey continued on the Ports Water Race Track, a track that follows the relics of the Southland gold rush. But above all it is a profound torture and a violation of the Geneva Convention. The absence of a horizon and salient features kills the sense of progress and time. The track stays more of less on the same level along the hillside and it almost feels like I’m walking on a rotating disk. Through mud, over fallen trees, over a ditch, through a trench, crossing a river and all over again. The track is designed to drive people mad. 22km of insanity.

And suddenly I’m in Colac Bay / Ōraka. It is already half past nine and the ladies in the tavern & holiday park are closing shop. But they have a cabin for me, ice for my foot and a towel for the shower. Sanity restored.

A beatific sundown is the reward for this long stage