34/n: Torn

Berni Ruoff
Hiker trash
Published in
6 min readSep 12, 2023

day 5: Plumorchard Gap Shelter M73.7 to Long Branch Shelter M102.2

If I would do a diagram of motivational state throughout the day, it would look like a seismograph during a very active period. A shake line that’s starts at a low point in the morning. It is seven sharp — I always wake up at seven sharp for some reason without an alarm — it is still dark and cold and wet and damp and unpleasant.

But I get up. For once because the others also get up and I‘m too competitive to let them win the waking up game. And the other thing — the 25 to 30 miles thing is already banging in my head. I pack up and go.

The weather clears and gives the view to miles and miles of hills and forest

My motivations than alters from stressed out to very optimistic. I try to get into a state where my body switches to autopilot and my mind gets lost in some phantasy or future plans. The AT is perfect for that. There is a lot of elevation and it is tough walking but the terrain is easy manageable on autopilot.

First snack — motivation peak and back into autopilot.

Second snack — sugar high and steady decline

It is still raining. Everything is wet and cold. In walking through clouds and I can feel them as a cold shiver on my whole body. It is hard to get into a positive mood with weather like that.

At noon the rain stops and the sky clears. I sit down and have lunch. I don’t like the sweet US peanut butter and the soft corn tortillas were definitely a bad buy — but I enjoy the sunbeams and the break. My mood lightens as well.

It‘s late in the afternoon. It has already been a long day but at that time of day the second wind kicks in. It’s like a little rush. The sky cleared and the sun shines through. I’m filled with endorphins and satisfaction and nothing hurts or aches for a moment. For a moment it feels like I could walk forever.

Picture of a 100 miles marker

I pass a nice couple that is having a break in front of a climb and we have a very nice little chat. It’s the first mentionable social interaction I’ve had today. Besides the twenty something people I’ve passed today — “hey, how’s it goin, how are you, great, happy trails!”

I appreciate those little moments very much and I try to embrace them with all of my attention.

I leave feeling lighter and happier. The last few miles go by without any doubts or frustration.

day 6: Long Branch Shelter M102.2 to Wayah Shelter M120.4

Today I hitch out to Franklin to resupply for a longer period and also to go to the outdoor store Outdoor76 to buy new shoes. I now by now you must think I’m insane but more on this later. First — Trail Magic.

Tiny art along the trail. Everyone wants to leave a mark

A family has decided to come on the trail and surprise the hikers with some blueberry pancakes, eggs, hash browns, sausage and self-fire-roasted coffee. This is the third trail magic for me in 5 days. Sometimes traveling fast has its upsides and this coffee is definitely one of them.

After a very good breakfast and a few more miles I hitch into Franklin. A very nice town that is dedicated a lot to the Appalachian Trail. Everywhere are signs of the deep connection of the town and this cultural phenomena.

Outdoor76 has cult status on the trail and is famous for its hidden hikers-only-bar and its excellent shoe consulting. I’m here for the latter. Basically I’m very happy with the Hoka One Speedgoats but the size I bought is too small for my trail feet — by a lot it turns out. After some expert measuring I move from a 12 to a 13. I also buy some inserts for better arch support — also after some excellent consulting.

I also buy a new sleeping mattress. The one I bought at REI is super light but it takes ages to inflate and deflate and the insulation is not great.

After some resupplying and lunch I take the shuttle back to the trail where it is another 12 miles to the next shelter.

The fog and the rain is back — but today I don’t care

On the way I meet the fourth Trail Magician. An older guy, who waited in his car for hikers to pass by to give them oranges, cookies and other supplies.

The orange is insanely good and the cookies are delicious. I smelled them before I ate them — you never know.

I pitch my tent, find a tree to hang my food, stretch, write a thousand words for you and go to sleep on my new sleeping mattress, that only took 7 breaths to inflate, without being worried or discouraged once today. A great day.

day 7: Wayah Shelter M120.4 to Locust Grove Gap M147.4

I had two honeybuns and two coffee for lunch — I’m unstoppable now.

The first sunny day of the trail — so many trees that still have to grow leaves. What an effort.

In the past days the Appalachian Trail Conservancy has released a note giving hikers the advice to come off the trail and postpone their thru-hike.

Some towns, shuttle services and resupply points along the trail have already closed and it might get hard to get supplies eventually.

Some hikers already have left the trail. Right now I don’t see the necessity to quit. I have enough food, I show no symptoms — except symptoms of crushing it, I try to stay as sanitary as possible, I stay away from groups. As far as I’m concerned I’m in some kind of walking quarantine.

Sidenote: the food hanging becomes one of my favorite tasks in the evening. I love the irony that I spend more time with finding a good tree, throwing the line, hanging the food, than with actually eating. Also it feels very outdoorsy.

Nantahala Outdoor Center — normally overrun by people. Today just some hikers and two unwavering women at the general store to provide the hikers with some supplies.

day 8: Locust Grove Gap M147.4 to Bitch Spring Tentsite M172.3

The marina at Fontana Dam — last chance to resupply for me before the Smokies

A long depressing day with a rainy end. Even though I’m moving fast and almost always make my 25 mile quota, it never seems to be enough. I do the math every day, but it’s never in my favor.

And there they are in the back. The Smokies — huffin’n puffin like promoted

There is no time for a zero day or washing my cloths or showering or recharging my power-bank. There is no time for something else than walking and sleeping

day 9: Bitch Spring Tentsite M172.3 to Siler’s Bald Shelter M195.5

I made a decision today. I won’t try to get to the end in 80 days. I will move with my speed and I will try to get as far as I can. But I will take rest days. I will enjoy the trail.

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Berni Ruoff
Hiker trash

Experience designer and design thinker on a mission to enable teams and ultimately become replaceable.