More than just the Pretty Part: An Conversation about Sustainable Fashion
“Most people who are interested in fashion are interested in the pretty part that you see at the end. There is a lot that goes into it that people don’t pay attention to that as much.” — Jennifer Worrell
Jennifer Worrell has witnessed the in’s and out’s of the apparel industry.
Worrell double majored in apparel design and apparel merchandising at California State Northridge and got her masters at Colorado State University. In her professional life, she has traveled to many different places and lived in various states, including California, Texas, New York, and Colorado.
Worrell has been in a variety of roles and built her career around both design and merchandising. Her first official job out of college was at JoAnne’s Fabrics. She then got a job working in the buying offices at Neiman Marcus. After nine years, Worrell ended her time at Neiman Marcus as the project lead for an updated merchandising system that applied to the entire company. In her design background, Worrell was the lead designer and alterations specialist for a bridal wear company. Today, she is a professor and internship coordinator for the design and merchandising department at Colorado State University.
In this sit- down interview, we discussed how the fashion industry has implemented sustainable fashion and her opinion on this subject.
Beyond the Oval: Do you think most clothing brands practice sustainability with their products?
Worrell: Some do. I think that it’s become more of a topic of conversation within the last five years. It’s interesting because this conversation has highlighted how much of certain companies, in the luxury space, have already sustainable practices built into their company. Particularly, when you get to the more traditional houses where they are still family-owned and operated, that’s the best example of it. This is because they are so in-touch with and concerned with every facet of the business and looking to monitor it and do it well. Because ultimately if you do it well, that leads to a good bottom line. So, I think there are companies that have really been the for-runners in a great way. I think that because sustainability is a hot topic right now, companies are taking it as a challenge to have an answer. Most customers are probably not going to ask them about how sustainable their products are, but when those few who do, and especially if those few happen to be dominate people and their competitors are making claims related to the subject, it ends up being a point of competition in marketing.
What is an example of a company that is sustainable and takes responsibility for decreasing the use of product waste?
Eileen Fisher is a great example of a company that has really, from the beginning, looked at how they can operate a company that has less or little- to- no waste. And, how they can use dyes and whatnot for their textiles that are natural and that last for a long time.
How long do you expect sustainable clothing to last in the fashion industry?
I think it is very much a fad right now and a hot topic. I think that there will be a lot of conversations probably for the next five, maybe even ten years. Then after that, I think the conversation is going to shift because I have a feeling that something else is going to be the dominate outcry.
What is the biggest myth/misconception about sustainable fashion?
People can’t afford it.
“An average American throws away approximately 80 pounds of used clothing per person per year.” What barriers are restricting the successful integration of eco- friendly fashion into the retail businesses?
If I have a beautifully perfect organic dye that looks like mud and is not the color of the season, am I going to sell that product? No, I won’t. This means that I would have produced product that is not going to be sold, I have wasted money, and I have wasted the earth’s natural wonders. I think that there are companies that have built things that really are exemplary in that fashion, but if no one thinks your stuff is attractive, then you are not going to sell it. This ultimately means that you are wasting resources and not being sustainable inherently.
What are some clothing companies that have surprised you in how they have successfully integrated eco- friendly textiles in the market?
Stella McCartney is famous for her push towards sustainability. Salvatore Ferragamo did an entire collection based off of fiber that he created from orange peels. And, of course, Eileen Fisher.
From teaching in the industry, are you witnessing any innovative steps towards more sustainable fashion processes?
The conversations about the dying process and water waste seem to be pretty important subject that a lot of students and higher-end companies are asking. The other one I would say has to do with the increasing trend of more personalized and/ or customized clothing. I think a lot of people do not think about that, but that really is in line with the stewardship sustainable business model, which is increasing.
On an individual level, how do you be sustainable with your clothing?
I don’t want to be a “close- hog” so I have been editing and looking through what I can get rid of and where am I off in-terms of my spending habits or whatever the case might be. I have been doing a lot more consignment lately because some of my pieces are really beautiful and still in good- shape. Realistically, I haven’t worn them or haven’t worn them enough to justify the space they are taking up in my closet. I consign them to a couple places locally in town so that if it can benefit someone else and I could get a little cash back, then that is great! After that appointment at a consignment store, I will donate the leftover clothes to a variety of donation spots here in Fort Collins.
What advice would you give an individual looking to start-up a sustainable fashion retailer, but is concerned about not making it in the fashion industry?
You better make your product attractive, and you better put it in a place where people are going to really relate to that from a values standpoint. If you cannot open up a brick-and-mortar store and sustain it from a financial perspective, don’t. Figure out if you have any traction in a digital model. Pursue a retail distribution model where you are selling to boutiques to see what kind of response people have to your product.
What is one concept you want your students to take away from your class?
Making a profit is great. It’s a good and noble thing to do. The question of what you do with it and how you go about it is a character issue. You can make money by lying, cheating, and stealing. Or you can make money by changing the world.
