Q & A with Jake Gadwa: A Coach Giving Tips to New Climbers
For all interested rock climbers out there here are some Q&As with a Fort Collins climbing coach to give some advice on proper training technique, thoughts on free solo climbing, tips on being a better climber, and much more…
Jake Gadwa a climbing coach at Ascent Studios for five years and an avid rock climber for 16 years. He works at Ascent Studios in Fort Collins, CO. Jake has competed in regional, divisional, and national climbing competitions.
Q: Jake, how did you become an avid climber, and a how did you eventually move into coaching?
A: My family has always been into the outdoors, and growing up we’d go hiking and camping all the time, but climbing was something my dad did especially. So, when I was four or five I started climbing with him all the time, next thing I know I’m competing, training, and really loving it.
What made me want to begin coaching was because I had a lot of fun and made so many memories learning to climb from my dad that I wanted to have the same experience with other people, furthermore, its hard getting into climbing because of its niche community and huge requirement of dedication if you want to get somewhat decent at it. So, I want to do whatever I can to help people get through that process.
Q: So, as a climbing coach of five years, what is your climbing style and what tips do you have to give to your trainees?
A: Well climbing has always been a happy place for me to get away from life’s problems so when teaching and training I like to keep a positive climbing space where everyone cheers and we all help each other. When training I like to focus on proper technique and strong workouts. I explain how different techniques can apply with different climbing routes and moves. Then demonstrate the special techniques on the wall in the gym like, using a toe-hook on an arete wall to help give balance and reach to a higher hold. Or, using a knee bar to hold yourself into the wall and provide stability while you reach for the next hold. I give my students grip strength and core strengthening exercises to help improve their climbing ability and advance their use of techniques to strengthen their focus, stamina, and energy to climb harder and longer.
As far as my climbing style I like to mainly climb boulders instead of sport and speed. Mainly because bouldering requires more power and strength whereas sport and speed require more endurance and a lot more gear. Since I focus on bouldering I mainly coach for it but also, help train sport climbers as well.
Q: Being a coach, have you noticed any skills and traits that are helpful to being successful climber?
A: Oh certainly, climbing is a complicated, frustrating, scary, and physically demanding sport. The only way to get good at it is to have a strong determination. It’s important especially when starting out it’s important to know that you are going to fail a lot, and have to be physically and mentally demanding in order to get better. But, climbing is a really rewarding way to improve confidence issues, truly learn to trust yourself, and learn to work hard in order to get over your obstacles which is a helpful skill for all aspects of life. It’s also a good sport for all people with a tough skin, literally and emotionally. It’s demanding sport that takes a lot out of you, but it’s okay because the climbing community is typically very friendly and inclusive to all climbers of any ability. Because, all climbers know the struggle to get better and how to help. Lastly, I would strongly recommend the sport to people who are really into the outdoors and outdoor sports because climbing is an amazing activity to do in nature. Because, it really emmerses you outside and gives you a whole field day to appreciate the forests, mountains, and parks in your area.
Q: For climbers who don’t have access to a coach what are tips you can you give to other climbers that you think are important for them to know?
A: As a climber you’re going to be your own greatest supporter and your biggest enemy. I will always tell my students go be constantly working at fixing some part of their climbing, whether its form, speed, grip strength, overhang, slab, etc. But, also to always have fun, because climbing is a beautiful sport that can make you be a better athlete and a better person. Just love what you do and put that energy into climbing. I also, constantly tell them to check their technique and to always learn from other people's help. Lastly, I want all people in the climbing community to help each other and be open and friendly with everyone and keep climbing a fun and a beautiful sport.
