Armenia in Italy? Only in Naples.
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San Gregorio Armeno (St. Gregory the Armenian) is one of the most famous streets in Naples (Italy). Well known for its artisan workshops and stores, selling nativity scene figurines and other traditional Christmas decorations. Curious enough? Well, its story runs much deeper than that.
Located in the historic centre of Naples, it is a narrow street that has been a hub of activity for over 400 years. It’s named after the church located at the southern end of the street. The church (S. Gregorio Armeno) was built in the 16th century over the remains of a Roman temple dedicated to Ceres, by a group of nuns escaping from the Byzantine Empire with the relics of St. Gregory, bishop of Armenia.
From the outside you can recognize it thanks to its unique bell tower (picture below), blending uniquely and making the street stand out. This bell tower was also functional over the years as it has been used as an “overpass”, due to its location between buildings.
A few steps from the tower, you can find the entrance of the church. This one features an impressive Baroque style with stunning works from the artist “Luca Giordano" (1634–1705). Make sure to visit at midday, when daylight makes the decorations shine at their best!
The cupola was painted with a Glory of San Gregorio by Luca Giordano, and the other decorations were finished by him too (except the five chapels). The ceiling cassettoni or framed canvases depict the Life of the St Gregorio Armeno and were commissioned by the abbess Beatrice Carafa for the Flemish Teodoro d’Errico.
But it’s not the church that draws crowds to San Gregorio Armeno. It’s the dozens of artisan workshops and stores that line the street, selling everything from miniature figurines of the Baby Jesus to elaborate nativity scenes that can take up an entire room. The street is trendy during the Christmas season, when thousands of tourists and locals flock here to buy Christmas decorations and gifts.
The tradition of making nativity scenes, or presepi, is deeply rooted in Neapolitan culture. The first presepe was created by Saint Francis of Assisi in the 13th century, and since then, the tradition has spread throughout Italy and the world but found home specifically here. Neapolitan nativity scenes are known for their intricate details and realistic depictions of everyday life, with figures representing not only the Holy Family but also peasants, merchants, and even animals.
The artisans are responsible for keeping this tradition alive. Many of them are third or fourth-generation craftsmen who learned the trade from their parents or grandparents. They use traditional methods and materials to create their figurines, including terracotta, papier-mâché, and wood. Each figurine is made by hand and takes hours, if not days, to complete.
Walking down here is a feast for the senses. The air is filled with the scent of fresh paint and glue, and the sound of artisans hammering and sawing echoes off the narrow cobblestone streets. The storefronts are packed with presepi of all shapes and sizes, from the smallest figurines to life-size nativity scenes that can cost thousands of euros.
One of the most fascinating things about San Gregorio Armeno is the sheer variety of presepi you can find here. There are presepi depicting everything from biblical scenes to modern-day celebrities. You can find presepi of pizza makers, fishmongers, and street vendors, as well as presepi of popes, politicians, and soccer players. There are even presepi featuring characters from TV shows and other popular movies.
Bare in mind, this place is close to the Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore (Click here to read article), it will make your tour in Naples unforgettable!
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Take care and see you next !
Pulcinella, a character or “mask” (maschera) from commedia dell’arte
History of Presepe
Official website of the Monastery of St. Gregorio Armeno
