Make the most of WebSummit: Lisbon Weekender’s Guide
Portugal’s beautiful hilly capital has undergone a radical transformation in recent years. The once seedy Tagus riverfront is now a vibrant destination for locals and tourists alike, and older buildings across the city have gotten serious facelifts. Home to an abundance of local design shops, third wave coffee spots and hip restaurants and bars, this easily navigated city is the perfect, highly affordable (by European standards), weekend getaway.
Friday
4PM After a long flight nothing recalibrates the senses like a walk on the grand avenue. Make your way down the 1100 meter tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade to the Elevador Gloria funicular which takes you up the steep 275 meter road from Restauradores Square to Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara in Bairro Alto. Walk or take the funicular the top. While personally I found the ride underwhelming, and suggest walking to the top instead, many happy tourists crammed in for the short ride. Once at the top walk over to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara to enjoy a refreshment along with your first beautiful view of Lisbon’s hills and the Tagus River.
5PM Bairro Alto and Chiado are the perfect place to spend your first evening. The narrow streets host a wonderful blend of small local shops, and whimsical newer additions. My two favourite places to check out are Pop Cereal Cafe, a happy little shop serving over 100 kinds of cereal, and Bertrand Chiado, on Rua Garrett in Chiado, considered the world’s oldest operating bookstore, which first opened its doors in 1732.
6PM If you’re in need of a quick trim, or just enjoy the whimsy of a bar+barber combo, head to Purista Barbiere on Nova Trindade where you can enjoy a refreshing cocktail or cold beer while getting a cut. My favorite is the Gin Mombasa, a gin tonic with a twist of juniper berries and fresh mint. They also have a good selection of beer and wine and some light snacks.
8PM Hiking up and down the “seven hills” of Lisbon is sure to give you an appetite. With hundreds of restaurants and bars in this area you can’t go wrong. For a casual dinner, grab a few friends and head to Taberna Portuguesa which has an excellent selection of delicious tapas served in a very cozy environment. If you’d like a finer dining experience try 100 Maneiras.
10PM With the abundance of bars in Lisbon you really can’t go wrong, but my favourite experience is sitting in the open-air cocktails lounges, drinking in the view. A new favourite is Terraços do Carmo, Topo Chiado which overlooks the castle and Santa Justa Lift.
Saturday
10AM Third wave coffee is new to Lisbon but some great shops exist. After ordering two shots of espresso with milk a few times and getting a tall milky concoction (latte-esque) that I failed to recognize, I made the effort to track down Fabrica. A super quaint shop with friendly staff, interesting artwork and great outdoor seating, I suggest sitting outside and ordering your favourite brew along with Paseis de Nata. The flaky puff pastry treat is filled with a rich cream reminiscent of creme brulée.
11AM Take a walking tour of Alfama with Free Walking Tour. This was my first free tour and I was skeptical, but the guide far exceeded expectations. He was knowledgeable, there was no peddling, and I was able to join and leave as I liked. I recommend dropping off the tour once you reach the castle. No guides are allowed in but you can pardon yourself and walk around this Moorish Castle (8.50 ) which offers some of the best views of Lisbon.
1PM On your way down from the castle be sure to keep an eye out for small sandwich shop at 16 Rua Santo António da Sé. This amazing spot serves sandwiches of suckling pig along with cold, perfectly poured beer for only 5 Euro!
3PM Before jumping in an uber (they work super well here), or on a tram to Belem, be sure to stop in a ginginha shop to try the cure-all liquer made from ginga berries. Hole-in-wall shops scattered throughout old Lisbon sell shots ( 1.4 Euro) of this sour cherry liqueur that, if you’re lucky, have a few berries on the bottom. Legend has it you need to drink 5 (women) to 7 (men) gingha shots a day to stay healthy. I highly recommend trying the alcohol laden berries. They are a nice sour counterpoint to this very sweet drink.
4PM Take the tram to Belem where Pastéis de Belém are made the same way they were in 1837. These flaky, salty pastries filled with a rich creme, similar to creme brulee, are served warm and defy words. According to the owner, only 5 people in the world know the recipe. They are well worth the wait. Stand in line and take them to go or take a seat at one of the 400 spots in the cafe.
6 PM Walk off the treats along the beautifully revitalized Tagus River waterfront and stop at Sud Lisboa’s riverfront terraza for a refreshing glass of local wine (about 11 Euro). The terrace offers beautiful views of the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge (Golden Gate look-alike) and Lisbon’s Christ the King (Christ the Redeemer look-alike). Be sure to save some room for dinner.
8PM A trip to Lisbon wouldn’t be complete without a Fado Show. There are many great places to choose from but if you’d like to add a bit of history to the experience, check out Maria da Mouraria, where you can enjoy a delicious meal while hearing Fado in the former home of Maria Severa, the prostitute who is said to be Lisbon’s first fadista.
Sunday
10AM Make your way to the Elevador Santa Justa (5.15 E) to take in the 360 views of Lisbon before heading to the mill for a delicious brunch. The huevos rancheros is the perfect blend of spicy, and fresh, serving as a much needed counterpoint to a long night on the town.
Noon From here wind your way along the streets to the TimeOut Market where you can sample food from some of Portugal’s best chefs, take a cooking class or grab a cold beer, and people watch. Both in the market, and in the surrounding Cais do Sodré are a great place to grab some souvenirs to take back home.
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