Prague like a local
a weekenders guide to Žižkov
The first time I travelled to the Czech Republic was in the early 1990s. Communism was collapsing and, despite the obvious scars of decades of oppression, there was hope in the air. Modern and democratically leaning, Czechia (yes it’s really called that now) along with Poland, Hungary, and Slovakia (or the Visegrad Group) showed promise in bridging the East-West divide. I’ve travelled back many times since, happily noting the transformation of Prague from a city behind the Iron Curtain to a modern, upbeat, western city that has retained cool elements of its communist past.
To me, no neighbourhood displays this better than Žižkov — a grittier, historically working-class quarter infused with hipster cafés, craft brew pubs, and cool retro designers. With its awesome blend of old and new Prague, Žižkov is not to be missed.
FRIDAY
4PM Shake off the jet lag with a nice walk in Park Rajská Zahrada and stop by the beer garden for a quick refreshment before heading out to dinner.
6PM Nothing beats jet lag better than Czech comfort food and a well poured beer. Head to Hostinec U Vodoucha, a classic hospoda packed with locals, for an authentic experience. I suggest the Pork Knuckle (189 koruna) and a pint of Mordýř 12° (45 koruna). The richness of the pork combined with the pickled veggies and a good lager to wash it down can’t be beat.
9 PM After dinner walk back to Namesti Jiří z Podebrad to take in nighttime views of the church, Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně, and then head underground to BeerGeek. A craft brew house that’s constantly rotating its great selection of draft beers, they also offer small bites including a HUGE selection of chicken wings (monkey wings) that pair perfectly with what’s on tap. The bar’s warm, fun atmosphere draws people in and it can get pretty crowded on a Friday night so if you’d rather climb back into bed, check out their selection of to-go beers.
SATURDAY
9AM Rise and shine! Žižkov is home to Vitkov Hill, a national monument to Jan Žižka’s victory over the Crusaders in 1420. It’s also a great place to take a quick run or hike to wake up. If you climb to the top you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of Prague from the base of the massive equestrian statue of Jan Žižka.
11 AM Refreshed, and having taken in the stunning views of Prague head back down to My Coffee Story. A modern, neighbourhood coffee shop that serves great espresso and a nice selection of breakfast foods. Try the soft boiled eggs, Tri vejce ve skle, (135 koruna) or the homemade waffle with fresh fruit and mascarpone (110 koruna) to get your morning started off right.
1PM Žižkov is home to some great up-and-coming local designers. A few of my favorite shops include the über hip, cult, Czech bag brand, Playbag on Borivojova and Botas 66 on Krizkovskeho, which carries a wide range of runners, designed after Communist era Czech sport shoes, Botas or botasky. With new designs ranging from whimsical rainbow to classic brown leather this stop is sure to be a hit no matter what your style.
Let the Communist exploration continue with a visit to Bohemian Retro, a vintage shop specializing in items from pre-1989 Czechoslovakia. Despite the selection being a little more tired than I remember, it is still worth a quick stop. A more modern assortment of women’s wear can be found at SugarBat, which carries a wide variety of retro clothing that they describe as “pin-up, rockabilly and goth styles.” Nearby, on Mánesova, lingerie designer Zuzana Kubickova’s showroom and studio has a stunning selection of women’s intimates along some beautiful outerwear collections.
3PM Czechs love to grab coffee and a sweet afternoon snack. Stop by the newly opened Donut Shop and grab a coffee and brown-butter (56 koruna), or maple-bacon (54 koruna) doughnut to-go. Do as the locals do, and head back to the many benches at the square to enjoy your snack while you take in the sites and do a little people watching.
4PM Freshly refueled, or perhaps in need of another cup of coffee, saunter on over to Jirak Farmer’s Market. Described by Taste of Prague as “one of the best things to do in Prague,” this quaint market has the rare distinction of being on Wednesday to Saturday. The food and decorations change with the season, and the selection of fresh fruits, meats, coffee, wine and hot food items in fabulous. People rave about the crepes from Galetka, and the coffee from Kavovy Klub.
5PM End your shopping experience with a visit to NeverEnough. The local design shop sports an in-house bar, great music and friendly staff. Grab a cocktail or beer while perusing NeverEnough brandwear (my favourite) in addition to a more limited selection of shirts from several European designers.
8PM For upscale food in a relaxed environment, head to Riccardo Lucque’s La Bottega Gastronomica. The airy bistro has perfect window seats overlooking Mahlerovy Sady Park which makes for great people watching while enjoying the fine selection of delicious daily dishes, homemade pasta and divine wines.
SUNDAY
10AM A visit to Prague wouldn’t be complete without a classic Czech breakfast of koláč from Antoninovo Pekarstvi. Be sure to try the makovy (poppy seed), and tvaroh (similar to cottage cheese), as well as the seasonal fruit selection. Apricot is always a favourite.
Noon The strange, somewhat ugly TV tower, with freaky climbing babies, built on an old Jewish cemetery defines Žižkov’s (and Prague’s) landscape. To catch a wonderful last bird’s eye view, take the elevator to the observatory (230 koruna) where you can watch films about Prague.
WHERE TO STAY
AirBnB has a great selection of apartments for rent that are perfectly located to enjoy the most of Žižkov. Use this link to get a $40 credit!
