How to Make the Most of a Weekend on Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
Lake Atitlán (Lago de Atitlán) is one of the most spectacular destinations in Guatemala, and a “must-visit” on every travelers list. With pueblos dotting its shores, each unique in character, this stunningly large lake, framed by volcanoes and steep cliffs on all sides, makes for a fantastic weekend getaway. You could easily spend a few weeks here exploring, and if your visit is anything like mine you may well want to! To make the most of your few days, select one town as “homebase” and take day trips by boat or foot. We think Santa Cruz la Laguna is the perfect base — small, isolated from cars, it’s truly stunning. No matter where you call “home”, be sure to visit a few towns around the lake during your stay to gain a sense of the incredible diversity of this amazing community.
FRIDAY
4PM Panajachel, or Pana as it is known to locals, is the lively access point to Lago de Atitlán. Before dashing to your accomodations in Santa Cruz be sure to take a few critical steps.
Hit an ATM. While many touristy spots take Visa, they also add a hefty fee to your bill, from 2.5% to 5%, so be sure to take out enough cash for the weekend. The bank machines, which are safe to use, only dispense 100 GTQ notes, so it’s also a good idea to break a few hundred into smaller bills (5, 10 and 20 work best).
Buy food + alcoholic beverages. If you plan to cook be sure to stock up on groceries in Pana as Santa Cruz, like many of the smaller villages, only has small tiendas with eggs, snacks, and a few drinks. The selection in Pana is amazing, including a daily street market for fruits and vegetables, a great health food store (Sandra’s Grocery) for wine, meat and cheese as well as a big supermarket to grab anything else you might need.
6PM Once you are all stocked up take a boat to Santa Cruz la Laguna. Public boats, called lanchas, depart about every 30 minutes (10 GTQ) from the main dock, or you can hire a private boat (125 GTQ). If you decide on the public dock it’s best to offer the driver a few extra quetzals to drop you off on the nearest dock to your accommodations. The rising lake levels can make navigating the waterfront path, fully loaded up with your belongings, difficult.
7PM After settling into your hotel head to Isla Verde for a great slow food meal. The delicious, prix fixe menu here changes nightly and includes a starter, dinner and dessert (100 GTQ). Enjoy your meal on the patio which overhangs the lake offering a tranquil setting with some good people watching opportunities.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the final dinner seating is 7:30 so be sure to be on time and make your reservation BEFORE 4PM the same day.
9PM Enjoy a nightcap at Isla Verde or wander down the beach to one of the few bars that scatter the lakeshore. If you are lucky, Larry’s Bar (named after its owner), which is at the far end of the beach and has been underwater the last few years, will have resurfaced and you can enjoy a drink while hearing Grateful Dead tunes and stories of life in Santa Cruz.
SATURDAY
9AM A trip to Lago de Atitlán wouldn’t be complete without visiting the tiny pueblito of San Juan. Unique in Guatemala, this lesser visited town is known for its fair trade textile cooperatives that create incredible handmade pieces. Visit one of these shops for a demonstration of the full creative process — cotton harvesting, spinning, natural dyeing, and weaving beautiful fabrics on the loom. The town is also home to incredible art galleries, medicinal plant gardens operated by comedronas (midwives), and coffee plantations. The best way to experience all San Juan has to offer is to hire a guide. Los Elementos offers tours in English or Spanish using local Mayan guides. You can visit KayakGuatemala for more information and to book your tour.
10AM As you exit the boat launch head straight to Cafe Las Mariasto to fuel your day. This tiny, family run coffee shop, perched on the second floor of a family home, has some of the best views and coffee in San Juan. The secret? Marcos, the owner, not only grows and roasts his own coffee but he is deeply passionate about executing the perfect cup.
1PM After a full morning of art, textile cooperatives, and coffee plantations enjoy lunch at one of the local hot spots. Comedor Elenita is the go-to place for an authentic Guatemalan lunch. While the setting is somewhat uninspired, think drab cafeteria, the food definitely makes up for it. A nice full meal is about 35–60 GTQ.
3PM Fully refueled head back to the docks and make your way to Santiago Atitlán, the largest and reportedly most traditional lakeside community. As you climb the main street, which runs directly from the dock, explore the many souvenir shops and art galleries. Be prepared to be harrassed a bit but know it is harmless. Press on politely. Santiago’s large commercial market, Mercado Municipal, runs every day but is best visited on Friday and Saturday. It offers a great glimpse into local life and the perfect photo opportunity.
5PM After navigating the market and street vendors, head to the second floor of El Pescador for a bird’s eye view of Santiago Atitlán. While some say the service here is hit or miss, if you are accompanied by a guide it should be spot on. I suggest the traditional beef platter which is served with delicious guacamole, plantains, and a fresh, spicy salsa (90 GTQ).
7PM After a great day exploring the lake, head back to Santa Cruz for a relaxing massage and a hot tub soak. Several of the resorts (Isla Verde, Laguna Lodge and Los Elementos) offer massages, as well as other treatments, for about $30 USD for an hour (check current prices).
SUNDAY
10AM Climb up the Jungle trail or take the main road up to the Mayan Village above Santa Cruz’s lakeshore to Café Sabor Cruceño. This graduate-run cafe is an offshoot of local non-profit Amigos de Santa Cruz. The CECAP Culinary Arts program trains young people for successful employment in tourism, and this cafe offers employment to graduates. Amazing food, stunning views, and you can do your souvenir shopping downstairs where young student-created beaded, woven and sewing products are sold. At the cafe be sure to try Tomalitos de Chipilin (32 GTQ) and the classic Mayan dish of Pepian (38 GTQ).
Before you leave, grab a pollo sandwich to-go (33 GTQ) for the long drive back to Guatemala City.
Noon On the two-and-a-half-to four-hour drive back to Guatemala City’s airport make the 20 minute detour for Iximché Mayan ruins. These pre-Colombian ruins feature ceremonial plazas, tall temples, ball courts, faded murals and supposedly evidence of human sacrifice! While walking the grounds is pleasant your visit will be deeply enhanced if you hire an English speaking guide at the entrance or, better yet, set up a tour in advance. Entry to the park is 50 GTQ or about 7 USD.
Where to Stay
Isla Verde is a perfectly appointed hotel and ecolodge set in lakeside slopes. The hotel offers nine independent wood cabins and two family suites that all have great views of the lake. Best of all, according to the host, special attention has been paid to ensuring a good night’s sleep so book and enjoy your rest!
Laguna Lodge Tucked on the opposite end of the bay from Isla Verde is the stunning Laguna Lodge. This eco-lodge has great amenities and tours, including volunteerism. Prices range from $195–395 US per night and include breakfast as well as arrival and departure service.
AirBnB, always a favourite, has a great selection of waterfront places for rent in Santa Cruz. Use this link to get a $40 credit!
Getting there
Uber is available in Antigua and Guatemala City presenting a reliable and cheaper alternative to hiring a taxi (472 -643 GTQ or 60–90 USD). Additionally you can grab a shuttle (~20 USD) or hire a private driver (100 USD).
Don’t want to stay in Santa Cruz?
If you prefer a larger town San Marcos is deeply loved by travellers. Descriptions of other villages can be found at Atitlán Living.
