How to Banish Your Fear of Natural Hair Product Ingredients
An Alphabetical Guide for the Scary Looking Ingredients in Your Natural Hair Products
At Black Hair Management we celebrate Happy, Healthy Hair. It is our mission to give you the tools needed to feel enthused about your Crown which can only throw shine on the rest of your life.
We want you to feel encouraged, inspired, and educated about your natural curls inside and out. As a part of our ‘Read The Label Campaign’ we’re demystifying those cryptic ingredients on the back of your natural hair products. You know the ones that send your mind a spiraling…
“Was it your aunt that said Sulfates were bad?”
And where did you read that not alcohols are created equal?
Consider this your cheat sheet, Queen. Your dictionary from A to X, actually.
Allow us to reintroduce the trickiest of compounds and strip them down to their function and where they are derived from. All ingredients mentioned in this list are safe and approved for even the kinkiest of curls, however, if you are hypersensitive we ask that you please continue to take care.
Be sure to reference back to this every time you’re shopping for your latest natural hair care product, or better yet while you’re casually waiting for Black Hair Management to deliver your personalized monthly hair and wellness subscription box.
Before you dive in, here is a cheat sheet of how we classify each of these ingredients. Maybe it’s a refresher or maybe you’ve always wondered…
A
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer
a. Antistatic
b. Film-forming
c. Hair fixing
Anhydroxylitol
a. A natural, plant-derived ingredient
b. Hair Hydrator
c.Often used in clarifying shampoos
B
Behentrimonium Chloride
a. Derived from oilseed turnip or rapeseed
b. An anti-static ingredient
c. Conditioning agent
d. Preservative and Surfactant
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS)
a. Derived from rapeseed oil
b. Surfactant
c. Gentle and mild (great for sensitive scalps)
d. Provides slip
e. Does not cause build-up
f. Excellent in a co-wash
Betaine
a. Moisturizing agent
b. Humectant
c. Not a surfactant (no cleaning properties)
d. By-product of sugar beet molasses
e. Water-soluble
f. Improves hair strength and elasticity
g. Improves shine by maintaining the integrity of the cuticle surface
h. Directly improves scalp health
i. Protects hair from environmental damage
j. Enhances texture and height of foam
Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleol Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate
a. Derived from rapeseed oil
b. 100% active ester quat (solvent-free)
c. Conditioning agent on wet and dry hair
d. Biodegradable
e. Improves manageability and softness
f. Ideal for ethnic and curly hair types
Brassica Alcohol and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate
a. Palm-free and vegan-friendly natural thickening and conditioning agent
b. Secondary emulsifier
c. Derived from cabbage plant family
d. Reduces static, flyaways and prevents breakage
e. Softens hair and improves manageability and detangling experience
Brassica Glycerides
a. Derived from rapeseed oil
b. Emulsifier, emollient, and stabilizer
Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine
a. Surfactant
b. Reduces frizz
c. Helps detangle
Butylene Glycol
a. Moisturizing and conditioning agent
b. Solvent and humectant
c. Type of alcohol (link to previous)
d. Derived from corn
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
a. Derived from shea fruit
b. Emollient
c. Softens and moisturizes hair
C
C 12–15 Alkyl Benzoate
a. Emollient and thickening agent
b. Preservative
Calcium gluconate
a. A naturally occurring substance, mammals produce this derivative as a carbohydrate
b. Formed by the removal of water from Gluconic Acid.
c.Conditioning agent in shampoo
Caprylic Acid
a. Derived from coconut oil and glycerin
b. Emollient
c. Thickener
d. Moisturizer
e. Gentle
f. Conditioning agent
g. Biodegradable
Caprylyl/Caprylyl Glucoside
a. Biodegradable surfactant
b. Derived from coconuts
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
a. Derived from coconut oil
b. Emollient and moisturizer
c. Biodegradable
d. Great for sensitive scalps
Carbomer
a. Thickening agent
Ceteareth-25
a. Cleansing
b. Emulsifying
c. Surfactant
Cetrimonium Chloride
a. Conditioning agent and gentle surfactant
b. Improves softness, manageability, frizz, and static
c. Key ingredient in a good co-wash
d. Protects and strengthens hair against heat damage
Chlorphenesin
a. Preservative
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
a. Derived from coconut oil
b. Surfactant (removes dirt)
c. Used as a thickener and emulsifier
d. Reduces static, conditions the skin & hair
e. Creates a foam
f. Great for sensitive skin, babies, and infants
Coco-Glucoside
a. Derived from coconut oil and fruit sugars
b. Biodegradable
c. Softens hair
d. Natural surfactant, foaming agent, conditioner and emulsifier
e. Great for sensitive skin and safe for babies
Cyclohexasiloxane
a. Emollient
b. Hair conditioning agent
Cyclopentasiloxane
a. Silicone
b. Adds shine and gloss to hair
c. Decreases combing friction and tangling
d. Provides conditioning
e. Humectant
D
Decyl Glucoside
a. Derived from coconut, cornstarch, and glucose (a combo of sugar and starch)
b. Biodegradable
c. Surfactant
Dicapryl Succinate
a. Emollient
b. Adds slip
c. Biodegradable
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
a. A mild surfactant, does not strip oils from hair
b. A moderate foamer and is recommended for sensitive skin
Diheptyl Succinate
a. Derived from castor oil
b. Biodegradable emollient
c. Enhances shine and texture
d. Provides slip for detangling
e. Retains moisture
f. An alternative to silicone-based products like dimethicone or Cyclomethicone
Dimethicone
a. Supports softness and shine
b. Detangler
c. Color Protection
Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulphate
a. Derived from palm oil
b. Emulsifier
c. Anti-static agent
d. Conditioning agent
e. Detangler
f. Supports softness and moisture
g. Biodegradable
Disodium EDTA
a. Chelating agent
b. Improves product stability
c. Preservative
d. Enhances foaming action
Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
a. NOT a sulfate
b. Gentle surfactant (removes dirt) without stripping oil
Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride
a. Vegetable-based ester quat,
b. Biodegradable conditioning agent
c. Improves conditioning and detangling of wet and dry hair
d. Supports curl definition, add shine, and smooths hair
E
Ethyl Macadamiate
a. The ester of ethyl alcohol mixed with fatty acids from macadamia nut oil.
B. Emollient
c. From Macadamia terifolia seed oil
d. Alternative to silicone
e. Coats the hair and protects it from heat and humidity without weighing it down.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
a. Emollient
b. Solvent
c. Smoothes out hair cuticles
d. Provides slip
F
Fructooligosaccharides
a. Plant-derived Humectant
B. Prevents frizz and breakage
C. Acts in synergy with beet extract
G
Gluconolactone
a. Derived from gluconic acid (produced from corn)
b. Chelating agent
Glyceryl caprylate
A. Emmolliant
B. Emulsifier
c. Derived from glycerin and caprylic acid
d. Foam enhancer
Glyceryl Oleate
a. Used as an Emulsifier, Thickener, Surfactant, and Emollient
b. Naturally derived from olive oil, peanut oil, pecan oil, or tea seed oil
c. Softens and moisturizes hair
d. Vegetable origin
e. Softens and moisturizes hair
Glyceryl Stearate
a. Byproduct of glycerin and stearic acid
b. Glycerin is a vegetable-based humectant
c. Stearic acid is a fatty acid compound from vegetable, animal, or oil sources
d. Makes products creamy and smooth
e. Forms a protective barrier on the hair to prevent moisture loss
f. Emulsifier
Glycol Distearate
a. Made from Glycerin and Stearic acid
b. Helps products mix better together
c. Thickening agent
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
a. Naturally derived from legume plants
b. Conditioning and detangling ingredient
c. Thickening agent
d. Great for volume
e. Prevents frizz
f. Smoothens hair
H
Hydroxyethylcellulose
a. Plant-derived (cellulose: cell wall of a plant)
b. Thickening agent
c. Emulsifier
K
Kaolin
a. Improves hair condition
b. Scalp cleansing treatment
c. Removes excess oil, dead skin cells, and product buildup
d. Used in dry shampoos
L
Lauric Acid
a. Emulsifier
b. Derived from coconut oil
Lauryl Glucoside
a. Foaming and conditioning agent
b. Emulsifier
c. Biodegradable
d. Byproduct of fruit sugars
e. Great for sensitive skin and safe for babies f. Plant-derived surfactant
g. Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate
h. Biodegradable thickening agent
i. Derived from natural ingredients
j. Surfactant
k. Foam booster
l. Reduces moisture loss
Lecithin
a. Emollient and Emulsifier
b. Found in egg yolks, soybeans, sunflowers, grape seeds
c. Prevents the hardening of cell membranes
d. Reinforces hair protein
e. Improves texture and shine
f. Seals moisture
g. Conditioning and moisturizing agents
h. Prevent fly-aways
Linoleic Acid
a. Stimulates hair growth
b. Supports a healthy scalp
c. Minimizes moisture loss
d. Naturally derived
e. Conditioning and surfactant agent
M
Maltitol
a. Humectant
b. Moisturizer
Menthol
a. Derived from peppermint oil
Methylcellulose
a. Thickening agent derived from cellulose
P
Panthenol
a. Provitamin B5
b. Humectant
c. Supports shine
d. Prevents breakage
e. Restores elasticity
f. Effective detangler
Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
a. Derived from coconut oil
b. Emollient
c. Conditioning agent
d. Foam enhancer
e. Solubilizer
f. Emulsifying
Pentylene Glycol
a. Plant-derived Humectant
b. Solvent and preservative
c. Solubilizer
d. Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate
a. Emollients, Emulsifiers and Surfactants
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
a. Naturally derived emulsifier
b. Emollient and Solubilizer
Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/ Succinate
a. Emulsifier and Surfactant
b. Thickening agent
c. Naturally derived
Polyquaternium
a. AKA “poly quats”
b. Conditioning agent
c. Blocks humidity
d. Prevents frizz
e. Provides curl definition
f. Promotes shine
g. Improves elasticity
h. Can cause build-up
Polysorbate 20
a. Emulsifier
b. Surfactant and foaming agent
c. Reduces and prevents frizz and static
d. Derived from coconut oil
e. Solubilizer
Potassium Cocoate
a. AKA potassium coco soap
b. Derived from coconut oil
c. A natural surfactant
Potassium Oleate
a. Natural cleanser
b. Made from organic sunflower oil
Potassium Sorbate
a. Natural fatty acid derived from berries of the mountain ash
b. Antimicrobial preservative
Propanediol
a. Plant-based
b. Emollient, Solubilizer, and Viscosity improving agent
c. Improves moisture
d. A natural alternative/replacement for propylene glycol
Q
Quaternium-87
a. Vegetable-based
b. Mild conditioner
c. Improves hair volume
d. Adds softness and shine
e. Surfactant
S
Sodium Citrate
a. Sodium salt of citric acid
b. Emulsifier and stabilizing agent
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
a. Gentle, coconut oil derived surfactant
b. Foaming agent
Sodium Coco-Sulfate
a. Surfactant
b. Derived from coconut oil
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate
a. Hair conditioning surfactant
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
a. Plant-derived surfactant from coconut oil, corn, and fruit sugars (glucose)
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
a. Coconut oil derived surfactant
b. Gentle surfactant derived from coconut oil
c. Mild cleanser
d. Foaming agent
e. A traditional substitute for sodium salts that are derived from animals, namely sheep and cattle
f. Great for sensitive skin and babies
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
a. Coconut derived
b. Surfactant
c. NOT sodium lauryl sulfate
d. Mild and gentle
e. Foaming agent
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
a. Plant-derived surfactant that acts as an emulsifier
b. Derived from sarcosine, an amino acid that occurs naturally in the body and plants like coconut
c. Cleanser and a foam booster
d. Mild and effective
e. NOT sodium lauryl sulfate
f. Supports shine and volume
g. Excellent for chemically damaged hair
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
a. Surfactants
b. Derived from coconut oil
Sorbitol
a. Surfactant and Emulsifier
b. Corn derived glucose
Steartrimonium Chloride
a. Antistatic Hair conditioning Preservative
b.Stabilizer
Stearyl Citrate
a. Vegetable origin and consisting of Stearyl alcohol and Citric acid
b. Emollient
c. Softens and moisturizes hair
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
a. Made from rapeseed oil
b. Gentle surfactant
c. Detangles hair, reduces flyaways and static
d. Improves smoothness
e. Does not cause buildup
T
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
a. Vegetable-based chelating agent
b. Preservative
c. Biodegradable
Tocopherol
a. Vitamin E
b. Derived from vegetable oil
Triethanolamine
a. Balances the pH of a product
b. Emulsifier
c. Thickener
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
a. A chelating agent, which means it’s able to remove heavy metals found in your tap water, primarily copper.
b. Used in both shampoos and conditioners
c. Protects hair from UV radiation
d. Detoxifying
V
Vegetal Glycerin
a. Derived from rapeseed or coconut oil
b. Moisturizing agent
X
Xylitol
a. Humectant
b. Thickeners/Emulsifiers
c. Texture Enhancer
d. Derived from fruits and vegetables like mushrooms, lettuce, strawberries, bananas
Xylitylglucoside
a. Derived from plant sugars
b. Good for hydration
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