Tel Aviv — Day 4
Kiosko, my coffee shop of choice, is closed. (esta cerrado — Spanish, since I don’t know Hebrew yet). I’m no great typist, seems every time I type coffee I leave out the 2nd e, strange as I do it consistently. Speaking of, it should be apparent I’ve yet to consume my daily dose of Vitamin C (Coffee, Caffeine). Being Shabbat many places are closed, streets desolate, sun, flies, however not taking the day off.
A corner store is thankfully open, a line of subdued patrons patiently awaiting their morning fix. More often than not Israelis are quite animated, lots of hands sweeping, emphatic. The effects of living under constant threat may contribute to their zest for life, and understanding of how precious, and fleeting it can be.
No muesli on offer, will have to settle for a tuna sandwich since I’m not awake and that’s all I saw. More often than not I just go with what’s there, lazy, just can’t be bothered. Wasn’t bad at all, they have a tendency to add radish to things, which gives it a bit of a zing. One thing the heat does is make me slightly groggy.
I feel drained although I could attribute it to the long walk I’d taken. It’s an easy city to circumnavigate on foot. Most sidewalks, flat with minimal obstacles save dog shit, make of this what you will, for me it’s just rude, doesn’t help with the reputation, kinda solidifies it, the reputation that is. Might also be scheming cats going around setting up poor hapless dogs.
Lots of thoroughfares are designed for pedestrians and two-wheel vehicles, scooters, and electric and pedal-powered bikes among others. Cars here, some so small, enclosed golf carts more like it, they could easily sneak onto some of the ample-sized paths. As wide as some of the walkways so many are barely passable by anything other than an old mini.
Crossing a bridge passing over one of these pedestrian walkways, I notice vehicle access has been restricted with solid but, if necessary, removable bollards. Is this in order to stop someone from driving onto the bridge, setting off a bomb, either or it is no longer capable of bearing the weight? Irrespective of the real/perceived threats, tourists continue to flock to this city, in particular, rapidly becoming one of the most expensive on the globe.
Not unlike my London experience, every corner opens up a new, interesting vista. My attempt to leave my phone in my pocket, and take fewer pictures, is kinda sorta working. I come upon an installation, today being the final day of Art week, with screens set up all around an amazing garden area attached to the Suzana Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre.
How is it that words like center and theater ended up getting their last letters switched? Seems so random. Most likely just ‘dafka’ on the part of whoever made it happen. If you’re so kind as to read my musings you’ll know I find words, and language to be of interest.
I’m meeting a cousin, not one I haven’t seen for decades since I was here a few years ago. She grew up in the same town as me, and moved here a long time ago. She was quite involved in a publication resulting in a comprehensive genealogy of a segment of our family, something I’ve started to find interesting. Not one to tell people what to do, you know what’s coming, if you still have grandparents or other older family, take some time to understand what the world was like for them, you’ll be glad you did.
I’d overshot our meeting spot by a bit as I’d followed my nose around. We stroll through a section of town I’ve not seen stopping in for yogurt, and a room with air conditioning. Climbing inside the fridge is sadly not an option. I think they include the a/c cost in the price, worth it to me, might even make some blush, this is Tel Aviv they don’t blush so easily. Interesting to note tipping isn’t a big thing here, if you do 10% seems the norm.
Prices here are dollar-based, the exchange rate, about 3.4, has little significance unlike in South Africa. People here are a lot more health conscious than in many parts of the US giving rise to more Vegan/Vegetarian options. Signs painted on walls, graffiti, all evoking a need for an enlightened approach to addressing our differences, the overall tenor one of positive progression to a better future. Easy to understand given what effectively innocent young people have inherited.
More sights, more people, more sunshine. We find refuge indoors to enjoy a light dinner. While I get drinking iced anything, water, in particular, isn’t great for our systems, at least that’s what I’ve read, I still want it. Ask for ice, you get a few cubes that have melted away no sooner than delivered.
Water glasses tend to be miniature, requiring numerous refills of warm water. My system is totally accustomed to cold, no organ shock here, quite the contrary when I take a slug of bath temperature agua. Do they make portable ice machines? I’ll adjust, maybe.
Armed with a comprehensive list of places to visit, I make my way back to what is now, my hood. Throngs gathered along the narrow streets. Most outside, accustomed to the moist warm air. Smoking, self-rolled in a number of instances. I want to remind them of the detrimental effects, then reverting to, ‘there are far more hazardous things around dying to shorten a life. Smoke-’em if you got ‘em!
It’s past sunset, Shabbat over. Our original meeting spot, Lorenz & Mintz, is now alive, packed with partiers set on enjoying their evening before settling back into their weekly routine. Work here starts on Sunday, something that I find hard to adjust to, odder since I haven’t had to concern myself with the day of the week for some time. Interestingly enough I do pay attention to the day/date, which helps maintain my equilibrium. Past travels have taught me I may feel untethered at times, and need to be grounded.
The moon, close to full, suspended, shining brightly, without prejudice, on all creatures.
