3/11 — Pacifica
Before taking my board out, I put on my fins and swam out a little inside the lineup with my phone in a case. The picture above was taken in a lull between sets. The waves were decent and the tide was peaking, so staying out taking pictures wasn’t a very enticing thought. I swam in and grabbed my board.
I started south, and worked my way up in search of the best, least crowded peak. I ended up a little above the pump-house, positioned pretty far offshore. The rides were a mixed bag, with a few little gems standing out. Pacifica seems to always have lefts as the most reliable, but I dropped right on a wave and was pleasantly surprised to know the increased maneuverability and smooth carving power I feel riding backside. Regardless, today’s wave of the day was most certainly a left that I took about midway through the day. I was one of the farthest surfers out to sea in the lineup, and a pretty meaty wave emerged. I dropped left and the wave was closing so fast I cut a straight line flirting closely with a whitewater tumble. The wave sectioned, but I had enough speed to hold through it and almost drop in again as it opened back up, nearly as fast. I was cutting the same speedy, tense line and then suddenly the wave hit much shallower water. I’m not exactly sure how it happened, and it’s never happened quite like this before, but the front of my board caught and I went straight into the wave face at full speed. I emerged in hardly waist deep water, having somehow managed to ride both sections nearly all the way to shore from the outer part of the lineup.
The crowds were a bit rough today, and the sets often came a long time apart. In lulls I found myself singing Barbary Days (Later) by Conor Oberst to myself.