3/24 — Langosta and Playa Grande, Costa Rica
Over breakfast we chatted with the cafe owner, who told us to try a nearby break called Langosta. Ben got a board and in classic fashion we started walking there with me wearing no shoes. The ground was searing and rough. We waved down a truck going in our direction and rode in the back until we got to the break. The break was about 3km southwest of Tamarindo, and a by hidden behind some dry brush. The sand was even more searing than the pavement.
Langosta is a river mouth beach break that was breaking about chest high. The waves stood up and froze in time before breaking smoothly. Ben caught two waves riding the shoulder, which really impressed me considering he’s really only surfed one other time: with me at Pacifica. There was a small, close crowd at the peak. I paddled hard for a frozen peak, through the crowd, and dropped in right. The wave held its path and I had a smooth straight ride before it sectioned out. We walked the trail back to the road, all the while with me sprinting from shade patch to shade patch to avoid burning my feat. We stole another ride back to town in the back of a truck.
It sounds weird, but the truck ride was maybe my favorite part of today. Warm air, Ben and I just riding along in silence. I miss having him around. There we were, back in Costa Rica, hitching rides just like we used to. Ben has becoming one of my closest friends since we were first here. There is no other person I would have rather been here with than Ben.
Back in town I put shoes on and we paid a dollar each to cross the river mouth the Playa Grande. The tide was high and just 3 other people were out. The waves were small but it was a blast. I had a nice long right that let me play up and down the rolling face until dying out. We sat in some chairs on the shore, looking out, and then went back into town.
We had dinner, walked a bit, and finally went to bed in the shared dorm room with a couple of other people. I slept terribly, but it was a wonderful day.