A Journey Through Time — 1 year of missed entries

Surfing is deeply personal for me, so personal I keep it like a little pearl right up against my chest and don’t write about it at all. What a shame that is, though, because I love the artifact that my surf sessions become through recorded words and picture.

The past months have been filled with varied ocean and ocean-side adventures.

I don’t like that time passes without recording. For now, I’ll add what I can to this post and try to be better at writing.

Doran Beach — Borrowed board from a guy I met at a bar the night before named Jason. We were in Jenner area looking at goat land.

Drilling the drain hole in the van