A History of Traditional Moroccan Dresses

The Kaftan

The Kaftan or ‘Caftan’ is a word of Persian origin for a robe or tunic which gained popularity starting in the 14th century in the Ottoman empire. Sultans would wear exquisitely ornate kaftans bedecked with beads and gold and silver threads. The detail would mean they would often take months to create and therefore they became highly valuable and a symbol of power and status. Kaftans were given as presents to honour royalty and important dignitaries.

With its long sleeves and loose fitting nature the kaftan was ideal for keeping cool in intense heat as well as protecting the modesty of the wearer. A kaftan can be made of wool, cashmere, silk or cotton and often comes with a belt to tie at the waist. From the 14th to the 18th centuries the design proliferated over the Middle East and has endured to this day due to its timeless yet comfortable design.

During the 19th century visitors from Europe brought back Moroccan kaftans as souvenirs from the East which started a craze in the West for this new ‘bohemian style’. The kaftan became a symbol of London in the swinging 60s with fashion designers such as Dior and Yves Saint Laurent including them in their collections. Today the High Street has caught up and Kaftans are no longer the preserve of Royalty or the super-rich, a huge range of Moroccan dresses can be found online, including the kaftan in colours, patterns, fabrics and designs to suit everyone.

Djellaba

The Djellaba is a floor length, loose-fitting, unisex robe with long sleeves but unlike the kaftan it also comes with a pointed hood called a qob. Its origins can be traced back to the Berber traditions of clothing, and is worn in different styles and variations across North Africa.

The djellaba can be made of wool, cotton or in more rural areas — goat hair. Its name means ‘draped clothing’ though the garment is actually sewn. The hood was originally designed to protect the wearer from sunburn as well as a defence against sand during strong desert winds. Wool robes were worn to keep the wearer warm in the mountain regions across Morocco and Algeria. For the Berbers the colour of a djellaba also functioned as a social code as it would tell you the marital status of the wearer — for example a dark brown djellaba would mean the wearer was unmarried.

Historically, djellabas reached the ground but modern lightweight djellabas are shorter. Men often wear a light-coloured djellaba sometimes along with a traditional Arab red fez hat and yellow babouche slippers for religious celebrations and weddings.

The djellaba is equally popular with women now that modern lightweight cotton djellabas are available in a variety of colours and designs. If you’re looking for a Moroccan dress online with a modern twist the djellaba is a great choice as it comes with a slip as well as an overdress allowing you to mix and match the two looks. Despite their humble origins the traditional Moroccan djellaba is a classic and versatile piece of clothing which can look fantastic both as casual wear and as a statement outfit for an event.

Lebssa

A Lebssa is a formal dress or gown which has similar origins to the Kaftan. They are a traditional Moroccan dress which are maxi-length and are often designed in jewel colours with a high neck and long sleeves and are intricately embroidered. Made of silk, satin or velvet they make a stunning impression at special events.