Where to Run in Warsaw
A Runner’s Guide to Europe, Part 2 of 5
When I first saw the Palace of Culture and Science, I stared at it, amazed at its enormity and architecture. It looked out of place, a stark contrast to Warsaw’s otherwise modern skyline. I decided then I would run along the main thoroughfare so I could gaze at this old engineering feat for as long as possible. I had read locals favored Lazienki Park and also noticed on Google Maps that the Vistula River flowed nearby, so armed with this bit of information, I mapped out a 6.2mi (10.0km) loop that offered roughly equal parts city, river, and park running views. I started and ended this loop near the iconic Palace of Culture and Science.
Sightseeing highlights included Palace of Culture and Science, Museum of the Polish Army, Myślewicki Palace, Palace on the Isle, Chopin Monument, Warsaw University of Technology
The Run
I started my run near one end of the Palace of Culture and Science and continued running in its presence for nearly half a mile. Whenever I stopped to look back, it seemed just as big as when I first saw it, and being the tallest building in all of Poland, it felt like a giant I could not escape. Later, I learned this feeling accurately described the tower’s origin. Historians estimate the German army destroyed ~90% of Warsaw’s buildings during WWII. Then Stalin, having liberated Poland from Nazi Germany, helped rebuild the city of Warsaw with this massive tower as his gift to the Polish. Russia dominated Poland for over 40 years during the height of the Communist era and many Poles initially despised this building because of that significance.
I’m always amazed when traveling through Europe. I’m continually surrounded by history and grounded by perspective.
The main thoroughfare provided a straight shot to the river with surprisingly minimal crowds and convenient underground walkways to bypass large traffic circles. About a mile into the run I came across a beautifully landscaped flower bed followed by an open gate to a field full of planes, tanks, and all kinds of fun things to climb. I had discovered the Museum of the Polish Army and the respectable adult in me felt it disrespectful to start climbing around, but the temptation pulled at me greatly. Later, on a walking tour, a native guide told me that every Pole must break at least one rule a day in order to sleep well at night. I had missed my chance.
I continued on the main road which quickly transformed into a bridge that felt so high I found myself running as far away from the edge as possible for fear of being blown off. Near the water, I searched for the right set of stairs that dropped onto the riverbank, and once on the river I picked up speed on the empty promenade. I noticed the opposite shore had a natural bank with wild foliage and long sandy beaches while my shore had a few establishments and ongoing development. I saw a construction crew in the distance and watched them watch me for a very long time. Feeling a good cadence and dressed to impress, I straightened my form, picked up my pace, and blew right past them.
A few steps further, I slowed my pace to catch my breath and then stopped in fullness at a War Memorial. Surprisingly, I discovered a direct line of sight to my hotel through the memorial. After gathering my bearings, I looked back along the river and again appreciated the natural embankment, following it until my eyes rested on the unique architecture of the National Stadium in the distance. Then I continued on, following the path until it reached a small beach with its uncrowded cafes and made my way to a small road, bypassing construction. I followed this road until it crossed a much larger road at the base of a green footbridge. Leaving the quiet riverside promenade, I crossed the bridge into Lazienki Park and once again found myself among civilization — other runners, groups of school kids, and tourists alike.
In the park, I chose to run on a single-track trail, following the canal until it reached a small bridge. From there, I happily began to get lost. I discovered a footpath that eventually led me to a bridge where I caught my first glimpse of the Palace on the Isle. Then I simply let the views navigate my feet, admiring the architecture, landscape, and wildlife along the way. I had explored the park by way of these landmarks: Jana III Sobieskiego Monument, Myślewicki Palace, Palace on the Isle, Amphitheatre, and finally Chopin Monument.
After exploring the park, I ran along a pedestrian-friendly overpass with landscaped flower beds and then navigated left through a traffic circle where I saw my end point in view. Eager to get back to the hotel I had forgotten about the university but made a wrong turn and ended up at the Warsaw University of Technology anyway — good karma for not climbing on the tanks earlier. Content with this run and still enjoying the sunny weather, I made a straight but slow trot back to the hotel on the narrow side streets of Warsaw.
The Route
Interactive Map
Created in MapMyRun, no login required: Warsaw City Loop: Vistula River, Lazienki Park, Univ of Tech, 6.2mi / 10.0km.
Navigation Points
I run with a phone and a section of Google Maps available offline so I can view my location and correct course at any time. Below are key landmarks or reference points with rough mile-markers to help with this route.
- Mile 0.0/6.2: Start/End at the Warsaw Marriott Hotel
- Mile 1.0: Museum of the Polish Army (Muzeum Wojska Polskiego)
- Mile 1.5: Vistula River
- Mile 3.0: Green footbridge, near Lazienki Park (Łazienki Królewskie)
- Mile 4.0: Amphitheatre near the Palace on the Isle
- Mile 5.0: Pedestrian-friendly overpass above a major thoroughfare
- Mile 5.7: Warsaw University of Technology (Politechnika Warszawska)
And a Few Recommendations
Next Time
This loop had several changes of scenery and long stretches of non-stop running that I would do it again for a training run. Having done it once, I should be able to run it again without having to second guess my way around. I’m glad I ran with a 17-oz water bottle because Warsaw stretched far and wide and having water on me gave me the comfort and flexibility to get lost and wander around.
A Shorter Option
For a shorter loop, consider running in Lazienki Park. A taxi from the Marriott cost about ~30 ZLT (8 USD) and dropped us off near Palace Myślewicki. The perimeter around Lazienki Park offers a 3.5-mile loop with a network of trails offering options to adjust this distance.
A Little Bit of Something Else
Since this route visited Lazienki Park and the area south of the main East-West thoroughfare, I rounded out this trip with two FREE walking tours of the northern side of town. The Jewish tour provided a deep understanding and appreciation of the Polish people. It covered the history and boundaries of the original ghetto, a large area with easy walking but long distances. In contrast, the Old Town tour provided a lighthearted anecdotal view of Polish history and covered old town, a small compact area with minimal walking distances. I found both tours to be educational and worthwhile and neither overlapped much with the other. Though if I had to pick one, I’d recommend the Jewish tour simply for the incredible amount of information covered throughout the walk.
