Forget the Usual Haunts, Unsung China Is Where It’s At
Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou are global cities with all the trappings of such. But for a more valuable lesson in China, look to the nation’s second- and third-tier cities.
China is gigantic. Probably even bigger than you think. The sheer scope of the Chinese populace is staggering. Consider these fun facts:
- The population of China is quadruple the size of the United States.
- The country has 130 cities with one million or more residents.
- The combined population of China’s top three cities — Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou — is greater than the combined population of 25 states in America.
China is also geographically enormous. By land area, it’s the second largest country in the world, trailing only Russia. The geography and climate is diverse. From tropical beaches in Sanya to ski resorts near the ‘Ice City’ of Harbin, China offers an assortment of living conditions for foreign travelers.
China’s economic development has occurred rapidly and transformed much of the country in a short amount of time. Just a decade ago, most parts of the country would be considered backwards and isolated by urbanites in the top three cities. Nowadays, due to enhanced mobility and omnipresent communication by smartphone, visiting China’s interior is extremely easy and convenient. For example, taking the high-speed rail from Beijing to Jinan in Shandong Province is simple and trouble-free. The distance from Beijing to Jinan is about the same as Los Angeles to Las Vegas, New York to Washington D.C. or Atlanta to Nashville. The difference is that Beijing to Jinan by high-speed rail takes much less time and is more comfortable.
This is not your grandparent’s China, or even the China of that young uncle just a few years older than you. China’s emerging cities are developed and offer many of the comforts found in Shanghai and Beijing. There are several benefits of visiting, living, working or studying in China’s emerging, or so called “second-tier” and “third-tier cities.” Chief among them are lower costs and an abundance of opportunities to make friends with locals and gain deeper insight into the heart and soul of Chinese culture. These cities typically (although not always) have less pollution and less hustle and bustle, making them well suited for Americans looking for a comfortable standard of living. And no matter which city you choose, you will still have access to Beijing and Shanghai from a second-tier city thanks to the country’s efficient high-speed rail network.
There is a well-known debate among expats over which city is better: Beijing or Shanghai? The answer is that they are both very cool. Beijing is one of the most iconic and great cities in the history of the world. It’s the political and cultural center of the country and is home to China’s best universities. Beijing is a fascinating mix of old and new with ancient temples and palaces mingling alongside trendy new bars and cafes. Shanghai, on the other hand, is a city dweller’s paradise and has some of the world’s best restaurants, bars and hotels. This is a true world capital where there is always something to do and someone to meet. The energy in Shanghai is exceptional. It is a place where you will feel anything is possible if you have the courage to dream it.
Beyond Beijing and Shanghai
Though Beijing and Shanghai get the nod as being China’s top cultural cities, they are not necessarily the best destinations for American visitors. First, Beijing and Shanghai are expensive. The Economist ranks Beijing as 46th in the world for cost of living and Shanghai comes in at 24th most expensive in the world. These are conservative estimates. Granted, there are ways to “live like a local” by eating inexpensive food and taking the public bus. But many Beijing and Shanghai people are extremely wealthy, which means that living like a local in these fashionable cities might mean spending $405 for a meal at Ultraviolet or $19 for a cocktail at Union Trading Company. Money can quickly fly out of your pocket in these cities if you are not disciplined.
Some people say that Shanghai is not the “real China,” and in some ways it can also be argued that Beijing is not the real China. Due to China’s hukou system, much of the population is cut-off from migrating to prosperous cities like Beijing and Shanghai. This policy creates a barrier to entry into some of China’s best schools and job opportunities, effectively creating exclusive privileges for the urban elite. The wealth of Beijingers and Shanghainese is extraordinary, and with this growth in affluence has come a rapid change in traditional Chinese values and beliefs. Beijing is now the city of bling-bling. From guys checking their multi-million dollar portfolios on their smartphones at Starbucks to their sons popping bottles at some of China’s most expensive nightclubs, this is not a part of the culture that best represents one of earth’s oldest civilizations.
What does this mean to any Westerner considering an extended stay in China? It means you will have fewer opportunities to meet local people and practice Chinese because Beijingers and Shanghainese are less curious about you. Beijing and Shanghai people have done more traveling to the U.S. and European countries than other Chinese because they can afford more international business opportunities and often send their children overseas to study. Many already have a long list of foreign friends and contacts so they are less motivated to strike up a conversation with a random traveler. Furthermore, Beijingers and Shanghainese are more skilled in English than the average Chinese. It is entirely possible in these cities to spend your day without having to use any of the Chinese language you may be learning in the classroom. There is also a huge population of foreigners in Beijing and Shanghai. It is easy to fall into the trap of hanging out in a social circle of expats, thereby learning very little about the real China.
Beyond the social reasons, choosing an emerging Chinese city over Beijing and Shanghai offers better economic opportunities, as well. Beijing and Shanghai are mature markets but China’s second- and third-tier cities are experiencing more growth. Advancements in infrastructure have eliminated many of the obstacles faced by interior cities to connect with coastal cities and beyond. China is making plans to build railroads and highways linking interior cities with Southeast Asia, Central Asia and Europe, potentially making these cities just as important and economically powerful as Beijing and Shanghai.
As business owners in places like Kunming, Chongqing and Chengdu become more prosperous and gain more opportunities to trade with the world, they will require talent that can help them market their products and services around the globe. Likewise, American and European companies will require employees that have knowledge and insight into these nascent markets. Working, doing an internship or studying in one of these cities will certainly set you apart from the crowd and offer valuable experience.
Where Do I Sign Up?
So what is the best emerging Chinese city to plot your next trip to? There are many options and of course it is important to research and determine which city makes the most sense for you. Most emerging cities have a reputable university that teaches Chinese to foreigners. And most are connected by high-speed rail to Beijing or Shanghai. You will probably not go wrong with whatever city you choose. On my most recent visit to China, I had the opportunity to spend time in Dalian in Liaoning Province and Hangzhou in Zhejiang Province. These are two cities that offer an excellent choice for American tourists or students to get a better understanding of the Middle Kingdom.
Dalian is a port city in Northeast China with a population of over six million people. Beijing to Dalian is about a six hour train ride, and about two hours from Dalian to the provincial capital, Shenyang, by high-speed rail. Dalian is a beautiful city and has been voted one of China’s most livable cities. The first thing you’ll notice getting off the train from Beijing is the clean sea air. Compared to Beijing’s dreadful pollution, this city by the sea is quite literally a breath of fresh air. With its dramatic coastline, beaches and recreational areas, Dalian has an ambiance reminiscent of Northern California.
People here are friendly and the vibe of this city is easy-going and carefree compared to the controlled and dutiful nature of Beijing. Whether walking along Xinghai Beach, the coast near Laohutan Scenic Park, or through one of its many peaceful residential neighborhoods, you will surely have many opportunities to interact with local Chinese and make new friends. Dalian is a big city and has all the big city things you expect including a subway system, fancy shopping malls, nice restaurants, nightclubs and bars. Dalian is home to several universities, including Dalian University of Foreign Languages, which is a popular choice for foreigners to study Chinese.
Hangzhou is known as one of China’s most beautiful cities and has a population of almost nine million people — meaning it’s larger than New York City. It now takes only one hour to travel to Hangzhou by high-speed train from Shanghai’s Hongqiao Railway Station. Just as Dalian offers relief from the suffocation of Beijing, Hangzhou provides an escape from the clamor and grandiosity of Shanghai. Located along West Lake and surrounded by green hills, the city exudes a charm that is one-hundred-percent Chinese. Here you will feel the magic of China and will come to know its past and will see its future.
Although the city is steeped in tradition from Lingyin Temple to its historic architecture along West Lake, Hangzhou is ultra-modern and is now one of China’s most important economic centers. Alibaba, China’s largest website and the world’s most important business-to-business portal, is headquartered in Hangzhou along with several software developers and other high-tech innovators. The area has a large young population and is home to Zhejiang University, which is one of the most prestigious in the country. The university offers long-term and short-term Chinese language programs for foreigners. The campus is an idyllic setting, located near the natural beauty of West Lake, hiking paths along the surrounding hills and plenty of bars and restaurants giving this part of Hangzhou an American college town feel that is easy to fall in love with.
While Dalian and Hangzhou are coastal cities and not located deep in the interior of China, they are still far enough from Beijing and Shanghai to give travelers greater insight into the inner workings of this wondrous country. Because they are cheaper, cleaner, more navigable, and full of friendly and curious citizens, they offer an excellent first step to exploring a large and complex country. Moreover, due to China’s increasing global importance and rapid modernization, some of the nuances of its ancient culture are slowly disappearing in the major cities. The smaller markets preserve much of that traditional heritage, and (perhaps) offer curious Westerners one last chance to truly appreciate authentic Chinese quirkiness before it’s too late.
