Diversity and contradictions
As Russia is the biggest country in the world, it’s not surprising that it’s diverse and full of contractions. You can find both extreme wealth and poverty, and temperatures from minus 40 degrees centigrade to plus 40 degrees. Getting a feel for the country takes time, and you might forget you’re not in the European Union when you’re strolling down the streets of Moscow (the capital) or St Petersburg (sometimes called the cultural capital). That’s why it’s important to visit some other regional cities or towns. Here you can get a glimpse of the country’s real diversity: ethnically, linguistically, geographically, socially and economically.
Over 100 languages are spoken in Russia and only around 80% of the population are ethnically Russian. Russian Orthodoxy is the main religion, but it hosts the largest Muslim population in Europe outside of Turkey. Buddhism and shamanism are prominent in Siberia. Yet while religious pluralism is supported, the Russian state actively represses and legislates against the small Jehovah’s Witness community.
Russian social and economic inequality is cause for concern. Wealth is concentrated amongst billionaires, the falling rouble has hit families hard and the cost of living is high compared to wages. So you can a very different type of Russia amongst aging Soviet tower blocks in the suburbs, in any of the thousands of ‘stolovayas’ (canteens) where you are served cheap filling food or on the third class compartments of the train, where people travel in communal carriages non-stop for days to visit family, go on holiday or go back to work.
Countering this more traditional view is the affluent, modern and vibrant side of Russia. Russia has a big middle class with plenty of English-speaking, well-educated and well-travelled young people, who are active, creative and ambitious. In Moscow, St Petersburg and the bigger cities, well-paid and internationally-engaged younger people are innovating in science, business and in the digital and creative fields. Moscow has its own Canary Wharf-type skyscrapers (Moscow City) and Silicon Valley, known as Skolkovo. Although investment into Russia has reduced since 2014 and the beginning of the Ukraine crisis, it’s still a hotbed of innovation.
When you meet someone in Russia, you’ll find they’re not so different. Just like us, international politics can seem remote from daily life and are rarely mentioned (Brexit excluded — it’s a particularly frequent topic, just like home). Unlike the stereotype, Russians are not cold and passive — once you begin a conversation, you’ll find immense warmth and hospitality. You’ll be asked about your family; your job; where you live.
When people asked us what car we have, it was always fun to see the shock on their faces when we told them we only have bicycles.
We also learnt that you shouldn’t be put off if someone asks you what you earn — in Soviet times, this was common to ask because everyone generally earned the same, and the tradition continues.
It’s sometimes difficult to form an objective view of a country without experiencing it yourself. But politics aside, the contemporary image of Russia needs to go beyond the Kremlin, cabbage soup and snow. It’s important to understand people and everyday life, both struggles and opportunities. Prepare to have your stereotypes blown away (but you may still come back with a sincere love of cabbage).
