Russia beyond the headlines — getting to know the Russian soul
Many people have an understanding of Russia that stops at its politics and history. This has created a character that has been frequently stereotyped — the passive and cold Russian personality — that rarely matches people’s experiences. Instead, you’ll find that Russians are open, curious and welcoming. In the summer of 2018, almost 3 million tourists descended on Russia for the World Cup and for 5,000 of them, it was so good that they still haven’t left.
Part of the attraction is the ‘Russian soul’, and there are some places where it’s possible to get a bit closer to understanding it. Firstly, Russia is quite rightly famous for its extensive train network, including the Transsiberian, but it’s not just notable for its scale and feats of human endurance (the traditional Transsiberian takes seven full days). Moreso, it’s the etiquette and traditions that exist on the train, shaped by history and culture, that really give an insight into Russian character. Once, when travelling along the Trans Siberian route from the third largest Russian city, Novosibirsk to Moscow (around 50 hours), I met a former nuclear physicist. In a mix of English and Russian we shared stories about our lives (and his love of the accordion) while slicing the sausage and beer we had both brought on the train. Perhaps related to the communal living of the Soviet era, when you travel on long train trips it’s generally expected that you bring and offer to share provisions.
Secondly, barriers between people are at their lowest in the traditional Russian banya (sauna or steam room). Only separated by gender, in the banya everyone is equal. My first trip to the banya was memorable for many reasons — not least the cold plunge pool you have to dip into straight away once you come out of a roasting hot sauna — but mostly because that was where I was first taught to swear in Russian. Everyone is naked, save for some plastic slippers and a triangular felt hat to protect your head from the intensity of the steam. A stranger might willingly scrub you down in the shower area or hit you with a bunch of birch leaves in the banya, a traditional way to remove toxins and soften your skin. The banya itself is only part of the ritual. Each banya has a common room where you drink tea with friends and strangers, making it both an emotionally and physically refreshing experience.
Like anywhere in the world, people can be rude but — despite the political tensions between the UK and Russia — this is rarely based on where you’re from. It’s much more likely that the Russians you meet will interested in who you are and what you do, and keen to share stories and photos about their family, friends or country. Memorably, once in Moscow a taxi driver was so busy browsing online to show us a wikipedia article about his mother that he missed the turn off to our street.
For those who have never thought about Russia beyond Putin and the Kremlin, hopefully this goes some way to show Russian hospitality and openness. It’s worth the effort to experience this for yourself.
Excerpts of this article were originally printed in an edition of the Ballymena and Antrim Guardian in Spring 2019.
