My Latest Obsession: Cajun Culture, But Not In New Orleans
Journey with me into Cajun country
An article I read recently suggested writing about topics that are an obsession, not merely an interest.
My latest obsession is Cajun culture. Specifically, I’m obsessed with Cajun dancing, but it’s hard to separate that from the music, the food and the people.
As a New Englander, I’ve had very little exposure to anything resembling Cajun throughout most of my life.
As a music therapist, the song “Jambalaya” by Hank Williams has always been a favorite of mine to use with clients. I fell in love with the song and tried to wrap my head around the lyrics, imagining what a dance party in Louisiana would look like, and fantasizing about how tasty jambalaya and gumbo must be.
Though it is probably a bit different than what it looked like during Hank’s time, I finally got my chance to be part of the action.
I’m here in southern Louisiana at the perfect time of year — festival season. I’ve only been here a few weeks, but so far, there has been some kind of festival taking place each weekend. And as far as I can tell, no matter what the festival is celebrating — boudin, rice, gumbo, or Cajun and Creole culture, there is always Cajun food, music and dancing.
It’s funny. I had my heart set on New Orleans when I decided to stay in Louisiana for a while. I ended up in the Lafayette area instead.
When you visit, make sure you pronounce the city’s name like a local, not an out-of-towner. Laff-ee-et.
Fate gave me exactly what I wanted I guess, because from what the locals tell me, this area is much more Cajun than New Orleans is. Now I’m sure New Orleans is lovely, and I do still hope to spend some time there. But if you’re looking for a true Cajun experience, visit Lafayette. And visit during festival season. Although I’m told there are festivals all year round.
Let’s talk first about Cajun food.
Gumbo
A soup that is a true melting pot, mirroring the history of Louisiana and Cajun culture. Its contents and flavor profile vary widely, but it is a Louisiana staple and celebrated dish. I had the good fortune to attend the Annual Worldwide Gumbo Cook-Off, and got to try a handful of gumbos made by different chefs. Each had its own distinct flavor and texture. One dish had a combination of seafood, and another was made of chicken and sausage.
Jambalaya
This dish is similar to gumbo in that there is a lot of room to play around with the ingredients. It can be made with a combination of meats, like chicken and sausage, or a variety of seafood. Maybe it contains all of the above. Rice, lots of herbs and spice, and maybe some diced up vegetables. At Festivals et Acadien et Creoles, I bought some jambalaya from one of the vendors. It was a simple mixture of rice, chicken and sausage. Some like to put crawfish in their recipes, but I haven’t had the opportunity to try this yet.
Boudin
I only tried this for the first time last night, and I’m still not sure I know how to pronounce it. I’ve seen advertisements on billboards and storefronts everywhere though, as I drive around south Louisiana.
What is it? Good question.
From what I understand, it looks like a sausage, but that isn’t really what it is. Pork meat, rice, spices and maybe diced vegetables, all wrapped inside a pork casing.
Apparently, many locals like to eat this for breakfast, washed down with a tall Coke. A breakfast of champions. You can find it at almost any gas station.
There are many other wonderful dishes, but these are just the ones I’ve tried.
Let’s move on to the music.
It’s taking me some time to learn the differences, but Zydeco and Cajun music are each their own distinct styles.
Zydeco mainly comes from the traditional music of Creole people, many of whom are descendants of slaves. There are some similarities to Cajun music, but the rhythms are often faster, and have more rhythm-and-blues influence. In Zydeco music, the instrumentation usually includes an accordion and a washboard, often in addition to a guitar, bass and drum kit.
In traditional Cajun music, there is usually an accordion, a guitar, fiddle and a triangle. Traditional Cajun music is also usually sung in French. The lyrics are often about love, heartbreak or sex.
I learn more about Cajun music each time I attend a jam session in town. In Lafayette, there are many Cajun jams that are open to any and all who want to join in.
I bring my guitar to the weekly jam at the Blue Moon Saloon, and try my best to keep up with seasoned Cajun musicians.
A person can get to know these musicians quite well by making the rounds through the circuit of weekly jams around the city. It’s a great way to learn more about Cajun French culture and music, and to get to know the locals.
As an outsider, I experienced nothing short of warm and welcoming treatment from all.
Cajun people are descendants of French folks who lived in Nova Scotia, who were then exiled to the south. The name Cajun comes from the proper name of these people and its French pronunciation: Acadien.
The two main song forms one will hear in Cajun music are the two-step and the waltz.
This takes us to our final topic: dance.
Cajun music is basically incomplete without dancing. A sight of Cajun and Zydeco musicians is empty without a backdrop full of people moving and swaying across the floor.
There are many varieties of steps depending on the dancers and their unique styles, but all one really needs to get started is to know the difference between the two-step and the waltz.
Dancing is a social activity as well as a romantic one. As a newbie, I am eager to learn.
It can be intimidating to try though, when you don’t have a partner to practice with. After a few dances, I got more comfortable getting onto the dance floor with folks I had never met. I learned that the best way to practice, is to say “yes” when someone asks to dance.
Most partners figure out pretty quickly that I really don’t know what I’m doing.
Some offer helpful pointers and tips as they twirl me around. Others simply show off their own moves and I do my best to keep up.
I learned in a class that it’s important to feel an energetic exchange through the points of contact between a pair’s hands and bodies.
Even as a total beginner, dancing to Cajun and Zydeco music is a lot of fun. Just don’t ask me to explain the differences in steps between these two dance styles.
Visit a dance hall in Lafayette and find out for yourself. Oh, and order some gumbo while you’re there.
You won’t regret it.
