A short getaway to the peace of Esztergom: the best historical sights you definitely don’t want to miss!
A small town full of history and beauty.
Suitable publication: Wanderlust, Pocket Guide: Short Break
Hidden on the border of Hungary and Slovakia, there’s a town that’s often referred to as ‘the capital of the Danube Bend’. Esztergom might seem small and insignificant at first, but its gorgeous historical places, beautiful outdoor areas, and great restaurants will amaze you immediately.
Excavations show this town has been continuously inhabited since the end of the ice age. Esztergom has gone through hell and heaven since then and seen numerous historical events.
Its significance began when Price Géza chose the town as his residence and built a castle on the hill after the Hungarian Conquest of the Carpathian Basin in 960. His son, Vajk was born there, who later became King Stephen I, the very first king of Hungary. In the 18th century, Esztergom became a significant political and economic centre of the country, which ended when the Turkish attacked it. Then the new headquarter of kings became the current capital, Buda but Esztergom was still an important cultural town. Today it’s the main centre of the Catholic Church of Hungary and a popular touristic spot.
As it can easily be accessed from Budapest, it’s perfect for a short getaway from the bustling capital.
Esztergom Basilica
The most famous sight is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and Saint Adalbert or better known as the Esztergom Basilica. The massive classicist masterpiece is built on the hills over the Danube Bend and is the largest and most important church in Hungary. The line on the facade says ‘CAPUT, MATER ET MAGISTRA ECCLESIARUM HUNGAREA’, which translates to ‘The Head, the Mother and the Teacher of the Hungarian Church’.
If you’re feeling adventurous, look for the hidden path from central town leading to the top. It’s called ‘Macsakalépcső’, which basically means ‘Cat Stairs’. It’s a 200 meters long narrow and steep path with a couple hundred stairs made of stone. It might be exhausting to climb, but the view of the Basilica, the river, and the Mária Valéria Bridge will compensate for it.
The entry to the Church is free of charge, but if you want to see more, you can buy tickets to see the Crypt, the Panorama Hall, and the Treasury. The latter keeps valuable objects, such as one of Hungary’s most ornate Gothic chalices, the Suki Chalice, and the country’s largest treasure, the Matthias Calvary.
Four hundred and thirteen stairs lead up to the most epic and unmissable experience, the Dome Lookout. From up there you can see the whole town below, the Danube and Slovakia on the other side.
Esztergom Castle
The Esztergom Castle is just a 3-minute walk from the Basilica. It was first built in the 10th century during the first king’s reign. Until the Mongol invasion of Hungary in 1241 the caste was the headquarter of kings. After the end of the Árpád dynasty in the 14th century, the castle suffered a lot because of multiple sieges for the throne.
János Vitéz started the renovations of the ruined castle in Renaissance style. During this time, it was the home of Queen Beatrix, who was then the widow of King Matthias I, also known as Matthias Corvinus. After the Battle of Mohács in 1526, instead of continuing the Renaissance castle, the aim was to build a strong fortress.
The final excavations and renovations were finished in 1938. The castle today serves as a museum, café, and the home of different exhibitions and events.
Uzicseli Hadzsi Ibrahim Mosque
The Mosque is a building with a more than 400 years old history, which was built in the first part of the 1600s, during the period of the Ottoman Empire. It is just below the Basilica and there is no such building anywhere else in the country. Today it functions as a museum and café, and with the Turkish garden, it offers a unique, authentic experience.
Mária Valéria Bridge
The idea of the 490-meter-long bridge that joins the two countries, Hungary and Slovakia together first came up in 1893. Before that, getting from Esztergom to Štúrovo and back was only possible by ferry. The construction started the following year, and the official opening was on the 28th of September 1895. The design was made by János Feketeházy.
Less than 50 years later, when Germans attacked, they blew up the bridge, which wasn’t suitable for usage anymore. For a long time, neither Hungary, nor Czechoslovakia wished to rebuild the seriously damaged bridge. Later, on the 100th anniversary of its first opening, the two countries’ prime ministers decided to apply for support and fix it. The bridge that stands today was finished on the 11th of October 2001.
Esztergom is rich in other interesting museums. The Mihály Babits Memorial House, is a house that was transferred into museum which used to be the holiday residence of the famous Hungarian poet, Mihály Babits. The Duna Museum demonstrates the past and present of water management, useful facts about climate change and the history of sailing and spas. There is a section about mineral waters, the Lake Balaton and many more. Everything is exhibited with special effects, many pictures and videos for a unique experience.
This is just a handful of the things this amazing town offers, there is much more for visitors to explore all year round.
Essential information
Population: 28,000
Language: Hungarian. English is widely spoken, and English guides are provided at most places.
Time zone: GMT+1
Currency: Hungarian forint.
When to go: Year-round.
Getting there: Direct flights from London Luton and London Stansted Airports to Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport. Trains from Budapest-Nyugati Railway Station are 1120Ft (approximately £2.79) and takes 1:05 long. Buses departure from the Árpád-híd bus station. Tickets are 840Ft (£2.09) and takes about 1:40, depending on the trafic. To check public transport routes in Budapest, see: https://bkk.hu/en/
Getting around: The best is to walk, use the town’s bikes which you can easily rent, or local bus services for longer distances.
Where to stay: Hotel Portobello offers excellent services for guests. It’s in the centre, so access to town is simple, but it provides quiet and peace for a pleasant stay.
Where to eat: In the morning, stop at the Széchenyi Square, which is not only remarkable for its beautiful architecture but is also full of many amazing cafés. At lunchtime, head to Csülök Csárda for tasty Hungarian dishes. To give your day a perfect end, walk or take a taxi up to Vaskapu Mountain Restaurant for a nice meal with a breath-taking view in the sunset.
Resources:
“A Dzsámi”. Esztergomi Dzsámi. https://esztergomidzsami.hu/a-dzsami. Accessed: 28 November 2020
“History of the Castle”. Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum, Esztergomi Vármúzeuma. www.varmegom.hu/wp/en/a-var-tortenete. Accessed: 28 November 2020
Lóránt, Dénes. “Esztergom: a view with history”. Info Budapest, 24. February 2020. https://info-budapest.com/esztergom/. Accessed: 28 November 2020
“The City”. Esztergom, a Dunakanyar Fővárosa, 01 May, 2020. https://www.esztergom.hu/en/en_city/hir/134-the-city. Accessed: 28 November 2020
