Global Systematic Expansion: The Economic Value of Textiles in Ao Dais and its Power in Global Sectors with the Embroidery and Textile Machinery
By Julie Thuy Phan, Global High School Fellow (G.W Brackenridge High School ‘24 — San Antonio, TX)
Abstract
The textile and garment industry of Vietnam has evolved in this global, interconnected system since the 19th century. Though it is an industry that is highly respected and connected to global systematic expansion, what demographic characteristics and factors led to globalization? This is where the concept of global systematic risk comes into play with the enterprises. Through international relations and economic activities, they all focused on the three pillars of systematic risk: economic efficiency, interactions, and technology. The research presented here shows all that made a difference in Vietnam’s economy, GDP raised social stabilization, and the light to an industrialized and modernized country of Southeast Asia from the textile and garment industry in making ao dais. Manufacturing technology like embroidery and textile machinery helped bridge global sectors and revolutionize the global marketing system and the cultural capitalistic world, raising the country’s GDP and socioeconomically putting people in stable financial positions despite the systematic inability to make the right decisions and political analysis.
Dedication
This research work is dedicated to my mother, Phuong Nguyen who encouraged me to show pride and passion for my Vietnamese heritage and culture. As well as, to preserve my native identity and love who I am. It is also dedicated to my AP US History teacher, Taylor Burke, who was my supplement-stood beside me along the way to complete and guide me through my research successfully. Also, this research is dedicated to Professor Centeno, in the Department of Sociology at Princeton University, for your established interdisciplinary study in Global Systematic Risk. When I took the course, created by the GSR team and the university, it sparked my intellectual curiosity about how the textile and garment industry in Vietnam experiences risk while being an influential member of Vietnam’s economic system and capitalist world. As well as, how it powered the social, political, and scientific sectors. I know without the help and funding from the PIIR team to craft this course, this research wouldn’t exist. Your work alongside the GSR research committee strengthened my love for political economics, East Sian studies, and international relations.
I. Introduction
Ao dais are long, split tunic, silk dresses that nationally symbolize the elegance and youth of Vietnamese girls, and they are usually worn with jeans, black leggings, or trousers. Furthermore, the manufacturing productions of ao dais all across the globe, interconnect with one another through the intricate designs and different textiles they used, to continue to elevate Southeast Asian feminist power. From the use of chiffon to brocade, they continue to shape Vietnamese heritage and culture through traditional and modern styles. How can we use Vietnam’s embroidery and weaving technology as a symbol of civic technology and civic engagement, inspire political systems, and bridge education gaps? How do all these textiles used to create these dresses place economic value and contribute to the global systematic expansion? In what ways do they continue to strengthen Vietnam’s economy and have the textile industry as one of the main priorities they want to preserve?
II. The Historic Silk Road and Textile
It starts all the way back to the Golden Age era-Han Dynasty. One of the greatest imperial powers of China unlocked the world of commercial trading and globalized networks. The Silk Road offered a network of exchange in ideas, culture, religion, goods, and most importantly technology. These interconnected route activities were one of the main reasons why mutual interactions exploit the symbology of multicultural diffusion. From here, this diffusion inspired our modern times’ political, economic, and societal sectors.
The frequent usage and trading of textiles and silks from more than 1,000 years ago, led to the foundation and roots of the Silk Road’s name and expeditions of success carried throughout the world of globalization. Especially in ancient China, the use of technological methods to carry fabric and fiber production all is from the origin of sericulture, silkworms, and silk-spinning techniques. Sericulture consists of stripping raw silk from exotic silkworm breeds for the sake of manufacturing activity. According to an article from UNESCO, Did You Know? The Exchange of Silk, Cotton, and Woolen goods, and their Association with Different Modes of Living along the Silk Roads, silk weaving dating back 5,000–7,000 years ago has formulated cross-cultural interactions within the field of textile production and design. Hence, they and the father of the first Silk Road practice, Zhang Qian, influenced crucial diplomatic and service activity and relied on the key of communication among those around them. Including Zhang, the emphasis on integrating mutual bonds, honesty, and respect in these global exchanges was uplifted.
One of the historical and monumental occurrences the Silk Road, has influenced civic engagement in the most profound way with uses of civic technology, reinforced political stability, and revolutionized global marketing systems.
III. Advantages Carried in Modern-day Textile Production
According to the web portal article, The Important Role Of Vietnam’s Textile and Garment Industry, by the Ministry of Industry of Trade, “the textile and garment industry is the industry that plays a transitional role, both helping workers get used to the industrial production environment, create jobs for people, create a stable source of income, thereby contributing to ensuring social stability and security” (“The Important Role of Vietnam’s Textile and Garment Industry”, 2021). This greatly defines what we call a global system. A global system is a set of clustered interactions that allow the continuous flow of information, money, goods, services, etc. Since Vietnam’s economy and markets are socialist-oriented, involving the ownership and labor works of the public and state sectors, they are far from the general theory of a capitalist country. If they were to perhaps be involved in a cultural capitalistic world and ideology, they can’t escape from the autarky crises. This new unprecedented level of social space has built-in interconnected globalized networks. They all bridge systematic failure; if one part of the global sector fails, then it can affect the rest. According to Columbia University’s: The Center on Capitalism and Society, “Capitalism is also known for its tendency to generate instability, often associated with the existence of financial crises, job insecurity and failures to include the disadvantaged.”
Table 1:
Notes: From the General Statistics Office (GSO), the number of employees in the Fork and May textile and garment enterprises ranges from 300–5000 over the course of years in the “total” section. In the capitalist view, the textile enterprise size ranges from 10–500 which leads to billion-dollar manufacturing production in VND dongs, equaling the approximate value of 40,000 dollars in USD.
IV. Global Systematic Risk Of The Enterprise
Through the thick walls of a socially stabilized appearance in these strong textile and garment enterprise systems, hides their fragility. While the ups are creating jobs, attracting investments, and increasing enterprises there comes what we call, a global systematic risk. Though we see these types of markets have economic advantages, from increasing productivity and enabling profit gains which is a huge plus for the government, brings potential market risk. According to ITC, trade statistics show that textile and garment companies’ high dependence on imported fabric from China places low sustainability. Through the current 21st century, all enterprises are competing against each other for raw materials like fabric to be able to continue the long chain of global apparel for the country, which explains the turmoil and making a continuous routine of sourcing raw materials in the future for the industry a long-term goal in lowering chances of competition.
V. Second Pillar: Interconnection Lense of the Global Textile Industry
The 3 pillars of risk in global systems include economic efficiency, tight-couple interactions, and complexity and technological advancements. Through the interconnection lens of the textile industry, it all makes sense. From the table below I created, for example, economic efficiency (first pillar) leads to the increase of productivity and profitability gains which was worth the government’s effort to establish economic activity for economic growth. If this continues, this will raise the (GDP) of the country, which then leads to the country moving towards a successful future in industrialization, transformation, and modernization of labor. Giving a country like Vietnam a bright future to, again, strengthen social stability, raise income, increase global apparel, give the government an advantage, etc. However, through the increased cases of fragility in the global textile system, shown on the left side of the map, the turmoil of fabric and market risk can cause low production. Meaning will lower the chances of continuing the global apparel chain and potentially affecting the economy. One small error can affect the whole system. That’s why they relate to what we call, global systematic risk.
Table 2:
Notes. I created this map to describe the systematic risk and interconnections of Vietnam’s textile and garment industry. The global systematic three pillars combined, influence the powerful economic and stability force the textile industry has. If one side faces fragility, then it impacts the whole interconnected system.
VI. Complexity and Technological Advancements
In present times, it is time for textile and garment enterprises to develop and invest in embroidery technology and thread management systems that ensure high sustainability and not let competition for raw materials happen ever again, which the Vietnam government is fully supportive of. Thankfully, Germany and Japan will make it happen. According to VIR: Vietnam Investment Review, “The world’s big brands will be present to introduce a series of automatic, high-performance textile and garment machinery and equipment, and high-quality fibers, yarns, threads, and dyeing chemicals”. (Textile-Garment Thrives with Technology, 2019).
Likewise, to the other pillars, this is one of the most substantial additions to the economy and Vietnam’s GDP growth rate. Through the current 21st century, this Southeast Asian country went into an adaptation system. The country stayed united through the highs and lows during this industrial move. We learned that globalization in the world was all interconnected, with no separatism. Especially in this country, autarky was nowhere to be found or used in a world where the public sector contributed to Vietnam’s economic trends, activities, and labor.
VII. The Politics, Policies, and Trade Laws of Textiles
Being one of the most significant sectors in terms of the global value chain of apparel adds huge weight to trade policies. With international trade policies, like the (MFA) Multi-Fiber Agreement, they have established systems from European Unions and the United States, to protect any domestic industries from dominant powers of the Southeast Asian suppliers. This is so they don’t fragilize the quota system, and give this time to prioritize the other countries who have an unused quota system to set up factories for the future of the textile industry. In the differentiation between higher-developed countries and lower-developed countries, there was an extinction and the higher-developed countries faced a global economic crisis as the trading policy and agreement died down. With everything, it helped produce a wide variety of materials and lower importation tariffs for lower-developed countries, shaping relationships and strengthening global affairs.
VIII. Textile Education
Through all of the intersections, pillars, and global history of the textile industry, they place a great display of business, entrepreneurship, and professional techniques of the Asian landscapes. Textile education is able to raise “vital transferable skills such as teamwork, project management, communication, marketing and commercial awareness” (4 Reasons You Should Study Textile Design, Norwich University of Arts, December 2020). Today, The Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania has a student-run organization, called Wharton Asia Exchange. Where they bridge the business and professional world amongst the Asiatic culture, markets, and commercial opportunities. This education may also help with the ability to distinguish good quality fabric and its importance on consumerism and the economy.
IX. How Science Can Improve Global Apparel and World Development
Nanotechnology is a science-technology branch dedicated to the purposes of using atoms and molecular scales like the nanometer to make advancements and improvements in manufacturing productions and industrial works. With the uproar and huge development of this particular technology, we are able to nanoengineer with specific scientific methods and devices to operate the atoms and molecules to strengthen the material quality, and textile features: anti-wrinkles, durability, texture, liquid repellents, etc.
These are examples of the connections between the use of nanotechnology, nanoparticles, and textiles.
Nanoscale
This quantification scale is measured from 1–100 nanometers and marks down the atom and molecule activities in relation to material properties. Depending on the types of atoms presented from the scale, will determine the fiber surface effect, which will ultimately determine the material qualities and state. The nanometer was introduced and created by Physicist Richard Feynman, who is known to be the father of nanotechnology. He had this mastermind and intellectual vision that we could control and see individual particles, molecules, and atoms. According to (NNI) the National Nanotechnology Initiative, “Today’s scientists and engineers are finding a wide variety of ways to deliberately make materials at the nanoscale to take advantage of their enhanced properties such as higher strength, lighter weight, increased control of light spectrum, and greater chemical reactivity than their larger-scale counterparts’’. Overall, nanotechnology and nanoparticles will strengthen fabric qualities without mass changes, thickness, and texture.
Here is an example of a nanometer scale used in this scientific manufacturing system.
Nanoparticles
Silica (siNP), is a coating layer that provides protection to the surface area of fabrics. In further depth, they allow a hydrophobic feature where it repels liquid products instead of absorbing them into the clothing. The special effect that comes with this protective coating, is it creates little beads of the liquids like water: bouncing onto the fabric, the textile doesn’t saturate the liquid. Other advantages include having an important role as the finishing agent and allowing the textile to endure harsh weather, chemicals, and other critical conditions. Another agent used is titanium dioxide (TiO2), which maintains the matte effect, and strength, and toughens the fibers.
An image showing silica and titanium dioxide.
History of Nanotechnology
The prefix, “nano” means something small, with its scaling from 1 nm-100 nm. The establishment and proposed concept of nanotechnology was created by Richard Feynman, as previously mentioned. His famous novel and lecture, There’s Plenty of Room at the Bottom, depicted that we can actually manipulate molecules, atoms, and particles. Another famous Japanese scientist named Norio Taniguchi, was the first to do works and studies with nanotechnology: explaining processes that can pull away each individual atom and molecule. Years later, these fields of science inspired ideas to use these types of technology and achieve a friendly, healthy ecosystem for the world with the everyday products we use and necessities. Lessen deforestation uses, lower the use of fossil fuels and harmful chemicals, protect the climate, etc. That’s why, the National Technology Initiative (NNI), was created amongst the political bodies to shape national science areas. All in all, nanotechnology has provided substantial growth and innovative ways to improve our everyday lives. A way for us to modify, divide, see, and touch molecules and atoms. To continue revolutionizing and evolving everyday products with safe hand-in-hand chemicals that are compatible with our biological system and, at the same time, improve the quality of materials. With devices like the nanoscale, we can identify ways to make materials more durable.
IX. From the Past to Today
In the end, the textile and garment industries became the greatest and most substantial role in globalization, while being globally at risk at times in the manufacturing and marketing world. We learned that the valuable textiles are from neighboring countries, not just China, and investment in high-quality threading and embroidery machinery contributed to the global systematic expansion. Placing the ao dais as a global symbol accentuating Vietnamese girls’ elegance through the high economic value fabric and creating a wide selection of ao dais served for any occasion. With the textile enterprises continuously being formed by the government into a substantial member of Vietnam’s economy and capitalist world, that became a priority to make sure the textile industry continued to stabilize communities and to continue to enlarge the interconnected system in international relations and economic partners.
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