THE JEWISH COMMUNITY AND SYNAGOGUE:
ARCHITECTURE IN THE OLD EAST END
Dear Colleagues,
Welcome back after a long winter break. Too bad winter is still upon us. Work has proceeded at the Capitol Crossing site despite the cold spell and the snow. It wasn’t always easy, but many things have been accomplished since last I wrote. Of course, the most stunning event was the move of the Historic Adas Israel Synagogue from a temporary location where it sat for the last two years to its final site at 3rdand F Streets, N.W. It now stands across the street from the Holy Rosary Catholic Church, giving the Old East End a visual embodiment of the Hebrew Scriptures and the Christian Bible standing side by side. I will have more to say later in this Construction Noteabout the Synagogue and the Jewish immigrants that gave life to the Old East end more than a century ago. Their legacy continues to inspire this neighborhood today. But first let me bring you up to date on more mundane but significant advances at the Capitol Crossing project.
On the east side of Capitol Crossing, students, staff, and faculty at Georgetown Law Center have witnessed the restoration of our GUTS bus parking station and the sidewalks attendant to it. We have also seen the installation of a completely new sidewalk running along
the 2ndStreet side of the Gewirz Student Residence Center. Around the Capitol Crossing project itself, sidewalks run down much of 2ndStreet and the length of the north and south sides of Massachusetts Avenue. The sidewalk directly in front of 200 Massachusetts Avenue has been widened to its full extent. That is because the building has finally received its Certificate of Occupancy from the city and its first tenant, the American Petroleum Institute (API), will arrive in mid-February. The reception desk at 200 Massachusetts Avenue has been installed at the main entrance, which, by the way, will be along the pedestrian walk between the two buildings and not directly on Massachusetts Avenue.
When the employees of API and their guests enter their suite, they will be greeted with some of the most amazing views in the East End. Although some offices are in the interior, natural light flows throughout the floor. Skylights now bring light to interior spaces and a designed stairway will connect the eleventh and twelfth floors of the suite. Employees along the building’s perimeter will have views of the Capitol and Library of Congress to the south, the heights of the lower Piedmont to the north, the Catholic Basilica in Brookland to the northeast, the Washington Cathedral to the northwest, and the Atlantic Plain sweeping down to the Anacostia, and the Potomac Rivers to the east. A green roof with public gathering areas will grace the building’s roof. From there, the expanse of monumental Washington will be visible to the west, along with panoramic views of Washington in every direction.
200 Massachusetts Avenue and its twin-towered partner, 250 Massachusetts Avenue will be joined by a pedestrian bridge linking the buildings at the second floor. In time, retail venues will line the pedestrian walkway beneath the bridge. Several weeks ago, passersby were able to watch the construction of the bridge. Now it is encapsulated in weather-proofing material as workers install its walkways, polish and paint its interior metals, and install horizontal steel supports to stabilize the bridge’s glass walls and ceiling. They will begin painting the bridge during the first week in February and install the glass walls and roof soon thereafter.
Work continues in and around both towers of 250 Massachusetts Avenue. Street light bases and conduit are being installed and pavers are being placed along Massachusetts Avenue. Most of the glass curtain wall is installed on both towers and sidelights and doors will soon be in place. Inside the north tower, elevators are being readied, stone floors are being laid, and stone walls are going up. In the south tower, sub-contractors set bathroom tile, inspect ceilings, and install vanities and fixtures.
Beneath the towers, work continues on the Capitol Crossing garage. The north end of the garage will be ready for the tenants when they move in. The G Street entrance is nearing completion and the E Street entrance is being excavated. The ramp for the E Street entrance will be poured sometime in March. Fire alarms and suppression systems are complete, walls separating various mechanical rooms are almost all built, and parking spaces are being striped and numbered. Farther south, plumbing, electrical, and fire suppression rough-ins are on-going, as electricians install light fixtures. Most of the platform covering the highway and the garage is now poured.
Substantial completion for the highway, tunnel, platform, and bridges across the site are expected to occur by the end of February. Miller and Long tower cranes are pouring the slabs to support the new Holy Rosary Parish Rectory. They have now reached the second floor. Masonry work beneath the Historic Adas Israel Synagogue will begin in February, and architects for the Jewish Historical Society have initiated the permitting process for their new museum. Absent unexpected delays, construction could begin as early as July.
But the main accomplishment in recent days was moving the historic synagogue. If you were unable to attend the move, which was well attended and very exciting, you can see a real-time video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I48vxfoi3gor watch a time-lapse video at https://vimeo.com/313000924.I wrote an earlier Construction Notethat included information about the synagogue itself which is available at https://medium.com/construction-notes/moving-buildings-part-ii-9-5-16-8d81d3fada91. This Noteseeks to place the Jewish community in the context of Washington and more specifically, in the context of the Old East End neighborhood.
The east end of downtown, roughly the area between North Capitol and 10thStreets, N.W., saw the emergence and growth of both the Jewish community and Georgetown Law School during and after the Civil War. We have yet to discover the name of the first Jewish student to attend the Law School (we didn’t use the term Law Center until the 1960s), but we know Georgetown University’s first Jewish student, Marx Edgeworth Lazarus, enrolled at the main campus on September. 19, 1834. Lazarus became famous as a farmer, author, intellectual, and anarchist. He was a man much ahead of his time. Though a Jew, he published works on Christianity and homeopathy in which he advocated spiritual and physical treatments well before the modern era. He belonged to social reform groups that called for abolishing institutionalized marriage and other forms of government control over personal individuality. His politics were extremely radical for the time. He once wrote “Every vote for a governing office is an instrument for enslaving me.” He could be a hero to our modern Libertarian friends.
Jewish people from Eastern Europe and the German principalities began settling in the Old East End just before and after the revolutionary upheavals in Europe in 1848. Georgetown was creating its law school in 1870 in the same neighborhood. Georgetown’s first law students studied on rented floors in a building on 4½ Street and Pennsylvania Avenue as the Jewish population was worshipping in nearby rented premises. (If you want to learn more about Washington Half-Streets, check the sources below.) After a peripatetic existence throughout the East End, the Law Center moved to 6thand F Streets, N.W. in 1884, and for seven years, shared the block with the then-new Adas Israel Synagogue which was built in 1876 at 6thand G Streets, N.W.
But the story of the Jewish community in Washington begins earlier. The Jewish presence in what became the United States can be traced back to 1654 when twenty-three Jews fled Recife, Brazil, and arrived in New Amsterdam, now lower Manhattan. In 1789, as the United States Constitution was being implemented, somewhere between 2,000 and 2,500 members of the Jewish faith resided in the United States. Unlike the Jews who would later settle in the old East End, Lazarus’ family had Colonial-American roots. Marx Edgeworth Lazarus’ father, Aaron, was born in New York City around 1760 and his mother, Rachel Mordecai Lazarus, was born in Virginia in 1788. An early and perhaps the first Jewish resident of what would become the District of Columbia was Isaac Polock who arrived from Savannah, Georgia in 1795. Polock helped to develop early buildings in the city, including the mansions known as the Six Buildings at 21st Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Some Polock houses existed well into the 1980s. The first Jewish family recorded in a Washington city directory was that of Alfred and Sarah Hays Mordecai who arrived around 1834 from North Carolina. Mordecai was a West Point graduate who rose in rank to Major. During the Mexican-American War, he was the commander of the Washington Arsenal, now known as Fort McNair, located in Southwest D.C.
By the time the Adas Israel Synagogue was built, the Old East End had become a thriving commercial and residential neighborhood. The old Center Market, designed by White House architect James Hoban, was built in 1801; but by 1872, a new Center Market, designed by the famous Washington architect Adolf Cluss in the German Renaissance Revival style, was the largest public market in the country. The Center Market is long gone but several Cluss buildings — the Eastern Market, the Summer School, and the Smithsonian Arts and Industries Building, among others — remain. The importance of 7thStreet, the center of the commercial downtown, is demonstrated by the fact that it was the second street in the District to be paved when cobblestones were laid in 1845.
With so much commercial activity, the area became a magnet for entrepreneurs, merchants, artisans, and laborers arriving from Europe and from other parts of the United States. They came before and during the Civil War and continued to arrive after the War had ended. By the mid-nineteenth century, it was, as Elizabeth Chambers noted in her study of the area, “a veritable mosaic of ethnic households illustrative of immigration and settlement patterns in the nation’s capital.” An 1857 Boschke map of the area shows that blocks between 5thand 8thStreets and between G and I Streets were fully built out. As was typical of the era, work and home occupied the same spaces. Family-run trades predominated where merchants, tradesmen, and artisans did business on the first floors of the buildings while living quarters were occupied above. Many of those buildings remain and have kept their character until recently. Even with the burst of development that has occurred in Washington since the year 2000, this area retains the highest concentration of pre-Civil War buildings in the District of Columbia.
By 1860, as many as 150,000 members of the Jewish faith lived in the U.S. Few people from German principalities emigrated to the District in its early years, but they began to arrive in substantial numbers from the southern German states of Bavaria, Hesse, Baden, and Württemberg in the 1840s. By the 1880 census, people of German ancestry — Jewish, Catholic, and Protestant — were the dominant ethnic group along the 7thStreet commercial area and its neighboring streets. Nearly 1,400 Jews lived in Washington in 1880, some along M Street in Georgetown, some in Foggy Bottom, and some in Southwest, but the bulk of the Jewish population lived around 7thStreet. There were a small number of Sephardic Jews who arrived earlier, but by 1876, most Jews in the Old East End traced their ancestry back to the German territories. They were mostly tradesmen or merchants, accompanied by wives who were milliners, seamstresses, teachers, and partners in the family economy. Lawyers, doctors, engineers, rabbis, and other professionals also lived in the neighborhood, but they were comparatively few in number.
Washington’s first Jewish congregation, the Washington Hebrew Congregation, formed on April 25, 1852, when twenty-one German speaking immigrants met at the home of Herman Lisberger near 21stStreet and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. On June 2, 1856, President Franklin Pierce signed an Act of Incorporation officially establishing the Washington Hebrew Congregation. By 1857, the congregation had grown to forty-four, including Jonas P. Levy, a U.S. Navy captain and popular hero of the Mexican-American War. By 1859, the Jewish population in the District approached 400 (population numbers vary depending on the source). As the congregation grew, services moved from the Lisberger house to various rental properties near the emerging Jewish community along 7thStreet. The Washington Hebrew Congregation moved into a new synagogue located at 9thand D Street, N.W. Four years later, they purchased the Methodist Episcopal Church at 8thand I Streets, N.W., and modified it by adding a depiction of the Ten Commandments and Stars of David to the apex. The congregation remained in that building until 1897, when a new and larger building, designed by Washington architects Louis F. Stutz and Frank W. Pease, was built on the same site. The building was designed in a Byzantine Romanesque style featuring four large stained-glass windows with Stars of David and two 125 foot towers topped with silver domes. President William McKinley laid the building’s cornerstone as 3,000 people lined the streets to witness the event. The building, now the Greater New Hope Baptist Church, still stands today.
The Civil War brought prosperity to the Capital. High prices for food, lodging, and consumer goods benefited the merchants and tailors along 7thStreet. More than 450 restaurants operated during the War years and six were kosher. Because public schools did not exist at the time, the Washington Hebrew Congregation established the first Jewish religious school in 1861. It provided secular as well as religious education in Hebrew, German, and English. In January of 1864, a new lodge of B’nai B’rith, an American mutual aid, social service, and philanthropic organization dedicated to assisting members of the Jewish faith, was established as the Elijah Lodge #50. At the same time, other secular civic and cultural organizations were being developed by and for the Jewish residents in the neighborhood.
Although civic life was thriving, religious strife was emerging. The early Jewish immigrants based their religion on the traditional practices they brought with them from Europe. In America, however, they found a new liberalism which led many members of the Washington Hebrew Congregation to seek an accommodation between their traditional practices and the culture of their newly adopted citizenship. Innovation crept into the faith. Services were conducted in German and English, not just Hebrew; a psalm was removed from the morning service to shorten it; sermons, familiar to the Christian tradition, began to be delivered; men and women, long segregated, now sat and prayed together; and an organ even appeared in the synagogue. Reform was in the air and it didn’t suit everyone. Because religious conservatives could no longer reconcile their faith with the Reform innovations, resignations from the Washington Hebrew Congregation began and increased. In 1869, thirty-eight members resigned from the Washington Hebrew Congregation and created a second congregation, the Adas Israel Congregation, in order to return to more traditional orthodox Jewish rituals. Although the debates leading to the separation were often heated, the separation itself was described by Elizabeth Chambers as an “amicable divorce of divergent religious outlooks.”
At first the Adas Israel Congregation conducted Sabbath services in the homes of members and then in rented buildings on 8thStreet between Pennsylvania Avenue and D Streets. For the congregation’s first High Holiday celebrations (Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year and Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement), they used the Concordia German Evangelical Church on 20thand G Streets. That building still stands today. Although acquiring a new synagogue was a priority, building one was not their first capital project. Instead, Adas Israel established the cemetery on rural land on what is now Alabama Avenue in Anacostia. They next focused on a new synagogue. The Historic Adas Israel Synagogue, now standing at the corner of 3rdand F Streets, is the oldest existing synagogue in the District of Columbia and one of the oldest Jewish houses of worship in the United States. It was built between 1873 and 1876 at 6thand G Streets, N.W., a site now occupied by the Metro Headquarters. The land was purchased for $2,300 while the Synagogue, an unpretentious brick structure, was built by Joseph William, a contractor and brick-maker, in three months at an additional cost of $4,800. William’s office, by the way, was in the neighborhood at New Jersey Avenue and D Street, N.W. The architect, if any, is unknown, but the plans for the building were drawn by Max Kleinman. Unlike many other synagogues erected around the same time, the Adas Israel Synagogue was designed with an utter simplicity — both outside and in — in a style that has been described as stripped-down Romanesque. The style embodies simple construction and little decoration, and gives the effect, as described by Dr. Samuel Gruber of the Jewish Heritage Research Center, of “comfortable dignity created by the judicious and balanced massing of building parts and disposition of elements.” It has, like all Jewish houses of worship, an ark for the Torah scrolls, an upper gallery for women, a bimah — a reader’s platform with a table and a railing — and a pulpit. There was a low-ceilinged basement that served as a school and storage area.
President Ulysses S. Grant attended its dedication on June 9, 1876, and donated $10, more than $200 in today’s currency, to the congregation. His attendance and donation were significant since Grant, the first U.S. President to attend a synagogue, had issued the infamous General Order №11 during the Civil War, an order that accused Jews of black market trading and expelled them from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Mississippi. President Lincoln quickly rescinded the Order. Grant neverapologized for the Order, but referred to it privately as “that obnoxious order.” He worked to mend his relationship to the Jewish community by appointing members to various government positions and paid attention to the plight of Jews in Eastern Europe. Simon Wolf, Grant’s appointee to the post of Recorder of Deeds, was one of the most influential Jews in the United States during the nineteen and early Twentieth century. Wolf later served as United States Consul to Egypt and counted Presidents from James Buchanan to Woodrow Wilson as his friends.
Over time, the Adas Israel congregation grew and moved to a new and larger synagogue at 6thand I streets, N.W. in 1908. That building, designed in the Moorish style by Baltimore architect Louis Levi, featured multiple domes, stained glass windows, and architectural finials. The original synagogue ceased to be a place of worship for Jews and changed hands and purposes over the years, even becoming a Greek Orthodox Church for a time. With the passing of time, the memory of its early purpose faded. In the 1950s, efforts began to preserve the building, but by 1966, the Washington Metropolitan Transit Authority sought permission to raze the building and replace it with WMATA’s new headquarters. The building was spared but it had to be moved — a move that was somewhat perilous. The weather was frigid on December 18, 1969, the day of the move. The first floor of the building proved too weak to move and had to be abandoned. Thus, only the second and third floors, comprising the sanctuary and balcony levels, were moved to the northeast corner of 3rdand G Streets, N.W. Early this January, the Historic Adas Israel Synagogue moved to its new and hopefully final location.
The Adas Israel Congregation continued to grow between 1908 and 1951. They moved again, this time to the Northwest section of the city where they remain today. After the congregation moved, the 1908 synagogue served as the Turner Memorial African Methodist Episcopal Church for several years. When Turner Memorial moved in 2003, the 1908 building was lovingly restored by Jewish philanthropists including Shelton Zuckerman, Abe Pollin, and Douglas Jemal, along with the efforts of Laura Apelbaum, then director of the Jewish Historical Society using 1949 wedding photos to guide them. The building was rededicated on April 22, 2004, as a site for religious and cultural events. It is now known as the Sixth & I Historic Synagogue.
Yet a third Jewish congregation formed in the Old East End. After the coronation of Russian Tsar Alexander III, religious persecution increased throughout the Eastern European lands he controlled. Between 1880 and 1918, the Jewish population in Washington grew to more than 10,000. Soon the Eastern European Jewish immigrants outnumbered those of German ancestry. Although the two groups mingled along 7thStreet, many sharing similar occupations, the two groups kept a wary distance from one another. Residential segregation persisted as the German Jews lived on 8thand 9thStreets above K Street while the Eastern European Jews lived along 7thStreet. A group of devout Russian Jews, immigrants who fled the European pogroms, founded their own congregation. Ohev Shalom, originally the Chai Adom Congregation, was founded in 1886. The first services were held on the second floor of Myer Fisher’s clothing store in the 1100 block of Seventh Street, N.W. As the Ohev Shalom Congregation grew, it moved to a location on Louisiana Avenue and then, on September 9, 1906, it moved to a former church at 500 I Street, N.W. The building was designed by Thomas Ustick Walter in 1852. Ustick was the fourth Architect of the Capitol and was responsible for adding the Senate and House wings of the building and the central dome of the U.S. Capitol. The building at 5thand I Streets first served as a Presbyterian church before serving the Ohev Shalom Congregation. The Jewish Congregation replaced the steeple with a dome while converting it to a synagogue. The Ohev Shalom Congregation remained there for the next fifty years until it too moved to Northwest D.C. That building is now home to the Chinese Community Church of Washington D.C. The Ohev Shalom dome that replaced the Christian steeple has itself been replaced with a new Christian steeple.
By 1906, the East End could boast of being home to three of the oldest and largest synagogues in Washington, with congregations worshipping along the spectrum of Jewish traditions — Orthodox (Ohev Shalom), Reform (Washington Hebrew), and Conservative (Adas Israel). As reported on the website sixth&i, “Jewish life occasionally supersede[d] secular life in the neighborhood. On the High Holidays, I Street is closed off to accommodate for the sidewalks and streets filled with people walking to and from the synagogues. One congregant, Leo Bernstein, recounted, ‘During the High Holidays all of us young people used to meet each other and walk up and down the streets between the synagogues. Maybe 500 to 1000 people would be walking the streets. It was like Broadway.’ ”
As the years passed, many of the Jewish immigrants became quite successful. Those of us who have lived in the District for a long time remember the names of those famous merchants — S. Kann Sons at 8thStreet near Pennsylvania Avenue, the Hecht Company at 7thand F Streets, Lansburg’s at 7thand I Streets, Saks and Company, Rich’s Shoes, and Hahn’s Shoes. Mom and Pop grocery stores evolved into the DGS cooperative. All of these merchants did business well into the twentieth century. But as time moved on, so did the people. Many moved to northwest D.C. or to the suburbs and their congregations and synagogues followed. The downtown synagogues’ buildings remained, changing purpose and sometimes religious affiliation. But the Adas Israel Historic Synagogue remains, now firmly planted on new land.
I closed an earlier Construction Noteabout the Synagogue’s move with these words which remain appropriate today. In the Hebrew tradition, a moveable Tabernacle is at the root of the faith. The first Jewish building of which we are aware was commanded by God in Exodus, Chapter 25, verse 8: “They shall make a sanctuary for me so that I may dwell among them.” וְעָשׂוּ לִי מִקְדָּשׁ וְשָׁכַנְתִּי בְּתוֹכָם. The original Tabernacle was built to wander, to be erected and dismantled swiftly as circumstances demanded. But it served the Israelites as a center of worship and study for five hundred years. “It accompanied them as they wandered in the desert; it stood in Gilgal; it stood in Shiloh; and it stood in Nob and Gibeon.” It ceased to exist only after the first Temple was built in Jerusalem. But the centrality of the Tabernacle to the faith remains. God’s command for the Tabernacle reflected God’s purpose, “that I may dwell among them.” Buildings may move and the locations of congregations may come and go, as have those of the three early Jewish Congregations in the Old East End, but the covenant of the Jewish people with their God remains inviolable. The wandering of the Adas Israel Synagogue conjures images and emotions that run deep into the hearts and souls of believers and non-believers alike. It tells the story of an immigrant community that came to Washington to share in the freedoms America offered, to thrive and to abandon centuries of wandering and suffering. But the journey of Adas Israel also reaches deeper into antiquity, touching the foundations of the Tabernacle, touching the source of faith, and reaffirming a timeless covenant.
Wally Mlyniec
SOURCES
My thanks go out to Laura Apelbaum, Kara Blond, Wendy Turman, and Samantha Abramson of the Jewish Historical Society of Greater Washington for helping me understand the history of the Jewish Community in the Old East End.
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Elizabeth Chambers, Square 478, A Social Context for the Old Adas Israel Synagogue, (2001).
John DeFerrari, 7thStreet in the 1870s, https://networks.h-net.org/node/GROUP_NID/discussions/83336/seventh-street-1870s.
Felix Gillette, Half Life, Washington City Paper, March 14, 2003 https://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/news/article/13026197/half-life.
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