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Counter Arts

The (Counter)Cultural One-Stop for Nonfiction on Medium… incorporating categories for: ‘Art’, ‘Culture’, ‘Equality’, ‘Photography’, ‘Film’, ‘Mental Health’, ‘Music’ and ‘Literature’.

Learn How To Change, and You’ll Never Die

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7 min readOct 3, 2025

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A small village with brightly coloured houses and an ancient round stone tower. Seen from a blue sea with a blue sky in the background.
Collioure, France. Photo by author.

Collioure never gets old.

I’ve been here maybe half a dozen times now. But the hilly streets, the ancient cobblestones, the blazing bougainvillea and, at the end of seemingly every street, the whispering sea makes this a place you don’t get tired of coming to.

It’s the Mediterranean I dreamed of, the placid and radiant beauty that wrapped flowering vines around my heart in Greece and Italy and finally in France, making me want to build a life here.

It’s not just me. This town of fewer than 3000 people receives 3.5 million visitors each year. This is France, but it feels a million miles away from the rainy streets of Paris, the glittering chandeliers of Versaille, the roaring waves and rolling vineyards of Bordeaux. This is more like — whisper it with holy dread — a kind of French Amalfi coast, a Gallic parallel to that shivering and tourist-haunted wonderland across the same sea, hidden by the brute blue shoulder of the world.

Beauty is a target, a high wild cry in the middle of the night. It makes you vulnerable. It makes you desired. To possess a thing, we know, is to destroy it. The beauties we can own are never safe.

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Counter Arts
Counter Arts

Published in Counter Arts

The (Counter)Cultural One-Stop for Nonfiction on Medium… incorporating categories for: ‘Art’, ‘Culture’, ‘Equality’, ‘Photography’, ‘Film’, ‘Mental Health’, ‘Music’ and ‘Literature’.

Ryan Frawley
Ryan Frawley

Written by Ryan Frawley

Novelist. Essayist. Former entomologist. Now a full-time writer exploring travel, art, philosophy, psychology, and science. www.ryanfrawley.com

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