Fashion + Duality
By Marcy Desroche
In George Simmel’s article “Fashion,” he states that man has a dualistic nature. He discusses man’s need to assimilate and live up to society’s expectations. When one chooses to imitate they do not need to worry about their choices. In contrast, people may wish to express themselves via fashion in a very individual way. According to Simmel, fashion communicates this dichotomy. It gives individuals opportunities to express their individual identity or it gives them the opportunity to conform.
Simmel points out that fashion has always divided social classes based upon duality. Fashion may be used to distinguish one social class from another. According to Simmel, once a trend is adopted by society as a whole, the upper-class will embrace something new. For example, Louis Vuitton’s Speedy Handbag has, for many years, been a symbol of luxury and prestige. A decade ago, this bag became very popular among the masses. Other designers copied the style and counterfeit bags were produced and sold in high numbers. The bag is still a classic, but it no longer holds the same prestige as it once did. In response, the upper-class adopted new handbag trends to distinguish themselves from the masses.
In his article, Simmel points out that society’s need to distinguish one social class from another is what makes fashion necessary. He discusses the need for both union and isolation. Simmel points out that both are necessary in order for fashion to actually exist. It is our need to conform that drives us to purchase merchandise which is connected to a higher social standing. In contrast, nonconformists may select merchandise which is not associated with higher social standing. They may instead use their own creativity, when making fashion choices, as a means of rebelling against the norm. For example, in the early 1990s Generation X embraced what is referred to as the Grunge Movement. Grunge fashion consisted of flannel shirts, old jeans, and combat boots. Many of these items were found at thrift stores. An entire generation used fashion and music to differentiate itself from what was considered the norm. This movement represented a philosophy which was not concerned with material goals. Once this movement gained momentum and popularity among the masses, grunge fashion was accepted by the fashion industry as a whole. Grunge inspired fashion could then be found in the pages of Vogue and on the runways. As it gained popularity among the masses, it lost its edginess and appeal.
Simmel explains that fashion is ultimately based upon an acceptance by a social set. He points out that this acceptance demands common imitation from the group’s members and releases individuals of ethical and aesthetic responsibility. This appears to be true in both cases of conformity and in cases of nonconformity. This may be true for groups which use fashion to distinguish themselves from those with lower social standing. In contrast, it may also be true for those groups seeking to differentiate via creativity and a distinctive aesthetic.
