Why we should look to “A Different World” (and other black 90s sitcoms) as a style mood board.
There’s a certain aesthetic that we refer to when we think of 90s fashion. High ponytails, abrasive prints, colorblocking and bold jewelry choices. The 1990s were a truly unique and inspiring time to be alive and to be experimenting with fashion. It was a unique period of self-expression, which was very well documented in the media, particularly popular culture and even more specifically — television. In general, fashion played a very grand role in the 90s. It where we witnessed our most famous wave of supermodels, Naomi, Christy, Linda, Tyra, Cindy — they were dominating the covers of magazines around the world, magazines that had (and still have) the influence to dictate trends that we saw in film, on TV and on the streets.
There’s no doubt that sitcoms like Friends, Saved by the Bell, Full House, Blossom etc. played a substantial role in defining fashion’s essence in the 90s, but there was such an important concentration of black sitcoms on air at the same time. In terms of studying fashion through a pop culture lense, it’s important that we don’t look over these black shows and what their characters were wearing.
There was A Different World, Martin, The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, Living Single, The Jamie Foxx Show, In the House — all of which portrayed the Black experience in a youth-centric, carefree and humorous light. The bold style statements on these shows reflected the times. Hip hop culture met high fashion. Co-eds were defining street style. Affiliated with a particular political movement? There was a hat for that. The women on these shows had some of the most intricate, conceptualized and iconic fashion moments to ever grace television sets. I cherish them all, and I’m still binge-screening them to this day, but there was one show in particular that spoke to my fashion psyche the most.
A Different World (September 24, 1987-July 9, 1993) Was a “spinoff” of The Cosby Show centered on the life of black students (primarily Denise Huxtable at the start) at Hillman College, an HBCU in Virginia. This was such a prime time for fashion, as we were in the midst of a Hip-Hop “BOOM” where rappers and R&B stars were setting the style standards, and shows like MTV’s House of Style and YO! MTV Raps were refernce points of what was cool and what was relevant at the time.
While Denise’s story came to a close very quickly (she was on for one season) Her fashion statements and aloof outlook on life were able to set her apart from the other Hillman students. Denise was a carefree black girl influenced by the emerging Indie,grunge and Alt Rock scenes of that time. A heavy-handed personal flair and her ever-changing hair riffs were able to to make her style on the show definitive and very popular. While the “carefree black girl” certainly wasn’t a new tag for black girls and women to identify with, this is one of the first times viewers were able to see that “tag” come to life.
Denise was a bit flighty, unanchored and never seemed to get it right in terms of her responsibilities — this was reflected in the way she dressed. Much like her, her style couldn’t be pinned down and she was bold enough to make non conventional fashion statements. Amidst the busy-ness of Denise’s personal style, was harmony, which is why her outfits seemed to translate so well on screen. Denise’s style was also very attainable, as her look never gave off any indication that she was wearing “designer” (even though she came from an affluent family). She often integrated menswear into style routine, giving it an even more non-binary flair, supporting her laid-back attitude. Her self-presentation was effortless with a hint of apathy — without pretense, one of the many reasons that her style is being referred back to and reinterpreted by fashion enthusiasts today.
Across the hall was southern belle and debutant, Whitley Gilbert, another Hillman student from an affluent background. 70 percent of Whitley’s sartorial focus was fixated on luxury fashion and the ability to stay on-trend. Whitley unapologetically named dropped all of the coveted brands she would sport, and would use fashion to navigate her self in a number of situations.
Whitley studied Art History and French and it was clear that her personal style was influenced by the top French fashion houses. Underneath Whitley’s superficial film, was a charmer with a treasure trunk full of catchphrases and and worldly advice — reasons that her character is known and loved by many.
There was also Kim Reese, the Med school bound, witty, voice-of-reason amongst the Hillman crew. Kim’s style was a bit more conservative, but she was still able to shine next to the other Hillman girls with her brave color-blocking, classic silhouetes and experimental hairstyles.
Pictured above is Freddie Brooks, a politically passionate hippie lovechild who eventually finds hereself working in Law. She is the quintessential west coat girl, so her vibes, outlook on life and cowboy-esque statement pieces reflect that region.
Black style is definitive, immaculate and influential. It sets trends, it raises questions and it’s unapologetic. Most importantly, it’s been able to make some significant cultural and political statements. Wardrobe was an important aspect of a Different word, which helped define the characters and set the tone for the show. I’d even say that the wardrobe was a character in itself, something that worked alongside the main cast to help them shape and develop. Bolder and more riskier than its “mainstream” counterparts, black fashion on screen in the 90s should be “iconized,” recognized and idolized for it’s contributions to the style world.
