The History of El Camino de Santiago de Compostela
Why I decided to walk
While many people know about El Camino being a Christian pilgrimage, its history actually goes back a million years, having seen many prehistoric nomadic migrations.
The province of Galicia boasts of ancient Celtic roots and is home to the Basque (some of Europe’s oldest indigenous people). Much later, St James, one of Jesus’ original 12 disciples, is said to have evangelized in Spain. When he was eventually beheaded, legend has it that his remains were brought to Compostela, where a cathedral was eventually built. The pilgrimage began in the middle ages.
Everywhere you go on El Camino you see scallop shells marking the way. This route, which is the most popular one, is in northern Spain, kind of near the ocean, though you can’t see it from the trail. The shell, a symbol of the pilgrimage with many roads leading to the same destination, might also have religious significance (i.e., Gospel references of “fishers of men”?). As with so many legends no one really knows the origin of, there might also be pagan fertility symbolism.
The other important item one encounters is the “credencial” which is like a passport that needs to get stamped daily along the way.
Getting to our starting point, Sarria, was about as challenging as our first day of walking. After our 2 flights from Portland (one being a red eye), we were too late for our already purchased train tickets to Sarria and had to buy news ones. Then we didn’t realize we were supposed to change trains. A very kind Spaniard not only helped us figure out how to backtrack on a bus, but also gave us a ride to the bus station. We made that bus with seconds to spare, and then took an hour long taxi from there, arriving near midnight.
This morning we finally started our walk, which was supposedly only 12–13 kms but felt longer. The countryside is bucolic, the food along the trail delicious and the other pilgrims and locals are as warm as I’d hoped.
Casa Morgade, where we’re staying today, is very comfortable, quiet and relaxing. Tomorrow’s walk will be short, only 10 km to Portomarin, but I’m sure our jet lagged bodies will appreciate that.
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